Kexikus Posted September 19, 2014 Posted September 19, 2014 Hi, I'm in the process of building a mini MOC right now. Well, actually I'm almost done building it but there is one part of the build I'm not really happy with. But I can't think of any way to do what I want to do. What I'm trying is to connect these pieces, attaching the stick to the side of the wing plate. The problem is that by design I can't put anything on top or under the wing plate. So I guess it'd only be possible to use an illegal connection. Still, I don't know if even that's possible. For now I'm using http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=63868 with a 2x2 corner next to it as a replacement, but that doesn't quite fit with the angles I'm looking for. That's why I hope someone here can help me with that problem. Thanks in advance, Kexikus Quote
UK_IN_US Posted November 11, 2015 Posted November 11, 2015 Hello everyone! I'm working on an MOC of an Anvil Aerospace F7C-M Super Hornet, from the game Star Citizen. My first bugaboo was seat design, these seem to be the best compromise available: If anyone has any suggestions to improve them, that would be great. However, my biggest problem at the moment is designing the weaponry. I am attempting to do a standard F7C-M loadout, and that means Klaus & Werner guns. These have a three-barreled design, which I have mostly in hand, but I am at a loss as to how to mount them to the rest of the build. The guns in their WIP form are these: Which are based off of these: Any tips for how to make them weightier looking? Thank you for your time. Quote
Lego Dino 500 Posted November 14, 2015 Posted November 14, 2015 I'm not sure how attached you are to that design, but if you replaced the staff pieces with 1x1 bricks and used 2 1x1 modified plates with knobs for the end, they'd look a lot thicker and feel more angular like the actual gun. Quote
rodiziorobs Posted November 14, 2015 Posted November 14, 2015 (edited) To get the triangular arrangement, I would use one of these: Attach them similarly to your LDD screenshot above. Edited November 14, 2015 by rodiziorobs Quote
UK_IN_US Posted November 22, 2015 Posted November 22, 2015 @Lego Dino 500, That sounds like a good idea. What do you mean by "1x1 modified plates"? I don't know which piece you're referring to there. I like the idea of using the 1x1 bricks, I'll see about setting that up. @rodiziorobs, What do you mean by that? How can I attach the gun module to that piece? I'm confused. Quote
rodiziorobs Posted November 23, 2015 Posted November 23, 2015 @rodiziorobs, What do you mean by that? How can I attach the gun module to that piece? I'm confused. Position the piece vertically with the offset hole on the bottom. The hole works as an anti-stud, so you will be able to attach the same gun pieces as in your image above, but more securely than you currently have it. Quote
Orange Leader Posted November 27, 2015 Posted November 27, 2015 Does anyone know a way to keep an official lightbrick pushed in? I'm building a MOC right now using the lightbrick, but It would be nice If I don't need to keep pushing It. The lightning is looking downwards with the switch looking upwards. I tried building bricks around It and lay a plate on It, so It keeps being on. But the plate does not fit on the switch or does not conect on It. Ergo, It's always a milimeter too much or less. Anyone that knows techniques to keep the lightbricks pushed on without holding It, please do share! Quote
XAxles Posted November 29, 2015 Posted November 29, 2015 What sorcery is happening on the crane boom and superstructure? It's all I need, because I want to replicate the technique and elongate it for a 15-axle uber-crane with sideways superlift. Slightly better view of the crane boom itself: Photos and models by Robert Heim (top, bottom) Quote
Capn Frank Posted November 29, 2015 Posted November 29, 2015 What sorcery is happening on the crane boom and superstructure? Don't create multiple topics for the same question. If someone knows, they'll answer. You are mistaken to think this behavior is acceptable. Your other two topics have been cast to the graveyard. Quote
baseballnut Posted February 28, 2016 Posted February 28, 2016 hey all Im new to this site but I need some help figuring a model I am trying to do of a baseball stadium thats an exact scale replica.....need help figuring out how the seats are supposed to go in it. Im currently measuring off of a sketchup model on my computer and then doing a mix of using lsculpt and brick paper to draw it out but the seating part is not looking right. if anyone has some ideas or a direction to point me in that would be awesome. also this scale is gonna be close to microfig scale too if that helps Quote
ukaskew Posted March 14, 2016 Posted March 14, 2016 Any thoughts/ideas/tips on building a large fence? I'm putting together a 32x32 motorsport pit lane, so I need something that can be built fairly tall (at least 10 blocks high) with the ability to leave a few gaps where pit crew can pop their heads through. Something like this... Quote
ReplicaProfile Posted March 14, 2016 Posted March 14, 2016 (edited) Any thoughts/ideas/tips on building a large fence? I'm putting together a 32x32 motorsport pit lane, so I need something that can be built fairly tall (at least 10 blocks high) with the ability to leave a few gaps where pit crew can pop their heads through. Something like this... *snip* Here's my take on your post. I prefer the shorter part but since it doesn't fit what you need I made an elongated version of it. I did try working on an entirely different taller version but it didn't really pan out well. Hope this can lead you on the path! https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18254110/Large%20Fence.lxf Edited March 14, 2016 by TrentonC Quote
perrush Posted May 7, 2016 Posted May 7, 2016 (edited) Hi all, I'm having a problem with my current MOC. In one place 2 curved line come together. I want to run them as smoothly as possible into eachother (no studs) But I'm afraid this will be a difficult (imossible ?) task. I made a setup to visualise the problem. (see pic attached). There is only one piece that comes close and that's the 1/4 dome (seen in lime). But he's 1 stud to short (3 instead of the needed 4) and he's not available in the preferable color. So any suggestion how connect those 3 curves ? Edited May 7, 2016 by perrush Quote
azog Posted May 8, 2016 Posted May 8, 2016 You could take that 3 studded curve dark grey piece and stack a whole bunch of them Just a suggestion Quote
Modelmaker Posted May 8, 2016 Posted May 8, 2016 I think azog means to stack them without fully clutching down the outer edge. which is what i was thinking Quote
Venunder Posted May 8, 2016 Posted May 8, 2016 There are curved 1 brick wide parts that would fit alongside the lime green element you show there? Quote
Enforcer Zer0 Posted May 9, 2016 Posted May 9, 2016 I posted an edited photo to show what I would do, the gray represents the dark bluish gray quarter circles, the red and blue represents hinges put together. What I would do is put hinges on the gray circles and then connect another circle onto that, ending up with three circles, two on each side and one in the middle. Quote
Lego Dino 500 Posted May 10, 2016 Posted May 10, 2016 You can stick a flag post in the center of the brown 2x2 brick, and stick some 3x3 1/4 circle plates with clips in, that'll let you get the gradual curve. Quote
azog Posted May 10, 2016 Posted May 10, 2016 I think azog means to stack them without fully clutching down the outer edge. which is what i was thinking Thanks! Yeah that was what I was trying to say Quote
jonwil Posted June 9, 2016 Posted June 9, 2016 Does anyone have any suggestions on how to model the front of the G:Link tram in LEGO? Here is a picture of the front of one: I want to build it in 8-wide (since I have buses at 8-wide and a 6-wide tram wont look good next to them) Quote
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