MOC: Southern Pacific Daylight #4449

[Lego Dino 500]

Congrats on the build! And the horn looks fine, nothing wrong with a bit of greebles. That's one heck of a way to join us I might add, I still haven't built a single one of my MOCs.

[zephyr1934]

Perhaps

What kind of detail shots were you hoping for?

...

On another matter, I found out from Tony that I had accidentally ordered the "large" wheels which would explain why I had all kinds of issues so I redid the whole thing following his instructions again but this time I'll try them with the XL wheels that I just ordered. Hopefully they don't take too long to get here. But in the meantime, I wanted to make some revisions to my locomotive adding the "signage" and the "horn" by the smokestack. I have mixed feelings about how it looks. It looks weird IMHO and I may just take the "horn" out altogether. Let me know your thoughts.

The only shot of the cars you have right now is from the side with the entire train. It would be neat to see a shot of just one car so that you can see the details.

That sucks about the wheel mixup, but at least you have a start on your next steamer (grin). The horn seems too prominent, if it were a characteristic feature it would be worth the exaggeration but in this case I think it could be toned down perhaps using a smaller part (flex cable? Or maybe find a short segment of 3mm brass bar and insert it in a headlight brick?). The trans clear marker lights are a good addition, as are the number boards next to the stack (while those now almost always read "X4449" in service they were used show the train number).

[atomic80]

Perhaps

The only shot of the cars you have right now is from the side with the entire train. It would be neat to see a shot of just one car so that you can see the details.

That sucks about the wheel mixup, but at least you have a start on your next steamer (grin). The horn seems too prominent, if it were a characteristic feature it would be worth the exaggeration but in this case I think it could be toned down perhaps using a smaller part (flex cable? Or maybe find a short segment of 3mm brass bar and insert it in a headlight brick?). The trans clear marker lights are a good addition, as are the number boards next to the stack (while those now almost always read "X4449" in service they were used show the train number).

Can you put together a pair of black X4449 stickers for that section by the smoke section? That'd be great if you can. It'd be for part number 61409 which looks like this

I removed that horn. The entire smoke stack section up front doesn't look right. Looks way too high. I haven't figured out how to put just a single around fig up there. I have a gold piece that'd be perfect but I can't get a "hole" in there to stick it in. Any suggestions?

[zephyr1934]

My stickers are designed to stick to flat lego with the advantage that you can peel and reapply. Unfortunately that means they will not stick well to surfaces like that on the face of the grilled cheese brick. For this part I'd recommend selecting a stencil font to replicate the style, print white letters on black background at various sizes until you get it where you like it. Then print to normal white address labels. Put on a layer of clear packing tape to give it the right sheen. Cut to size, and then use a black marker around the edge to get rid of the white line.

As for the horn, perhaps a 1x2 wheel holder:

To my eye the diameter is right for the horn but the color of the wheel holder is wrong. I am not sure if the bottom has stud receivers though.

[atomic80]

I finally got the parts needed to rebuild the locomotive properly but now I'm struggling with two things. The XL wheels with the custom rods that zephyr created seems to be moving with a bit of a friction. It doesn't move smoothly most times. I tried moving the wheels out a bit and adjusting the rods but there seems to still be some friction. This in turn makes it very hard for the powered tender to push the locomotive around the track. Tony's instructions calls for using two PF motors but I can't get both to work with the same channel using one RC. It's only possible to put them on two separate channels meaning that I'd have to turn the dial on both at the same time to get the train moving. I thought about adding another IR receiver but there's no room for two IR receivers and two battery boxes.

Any suggestions?

[SavaTheAggie]

It's not "only possible" with two channels.

Power Functions Train Equipment by Tony Sava, on Flickr

Are your drivers quartered?

Are any of your Technic pins black in color?

Have you attempted removing one part at a time until you have isolated the friction causing element?

--Tony

[ritzcrackerman]

You can also swap polarity on one of the train motors to pair with the tender. It's a quick hack, you just need a soldering gun and some basic tools.

[atomic80]

It's not "only possible" with two channels.

Power Functions Train Equipment by Tony Sava, on Flickr

Are your drivers quartered?

Are any of your Technic pins black in color?

Have you attempted removing one part at a time until you have isolated the friction causing element?

--Tony

Quartered? You mean the counterweights being one rotational stop away from each one starting from the front? And yes, the technic pins are all black.

Thank you also for the suggestion on stacking the motor connections! I didn't know that you could do that! And I used the switch as you suggestion to reverse the polarity on the second one so they're now moving in the same direction.

One step closer!!! Thank you everyone for your help!

Jason

[SavaTheAggie]

Black Technic pins are called "Friction Pins". Their name is self explanatory. I believe there's a blue version, too.

Replace all black friction pins with light grey pins on any part designed to rotate. The light grey pins are frictionless.

As for quartering:

http://bigbenbricks.com/applications.html#quartering

--Tony

Edited June 28, 2016 by SavaTheAggie

[storms26]

A while ago, I actually purchased the instructions for this engine. I've had the instructions for a couple years now and have done nothing with them. When I saw this topic get revived, and the pictures of atomic's take at it, it really inspired me to build the engine myself. I am currently finding parts I own for the engine, and will be moving on to eBay and Bricklink.

Thanks to atomic for inspiring me to finish, and for Tony for making the instructions!

[atomic80]

Black Technic pins are called "Friction Pins". Their name is self explanatory. I believe there's a blue version, too.

Replace all black friction pins with light grey pins on any part designed to rotate. The light grey pins are frictionless.

As for quartering:

http://bigbenbricks....html#quartering

--Tony

Thanks Tony, but I checked on the grey pin...it won't work with the wheels because the connecting points on the XL wheels are like this, + whereas the other end is round. I'd have to use the blue connecting pins instead but those would stand out...I'll try them and see if that makes it any smoother. I tried running the train without ANY connecting rods and it doesn't work too well either. I'll try the quartering technique to see if that improves things.

On the upside, having two motors really works well in pushing the locomotive around but the bigger XL wheels don't move too well.

A while ago, I actually purchased the instructions for this engine. I've had the instructions for a couple years now and have done nothing with them. When I saw this topic get revived, and the pictures of atomic's take at it, it really inspired me to build the engine myself. I am currently finding parts I own for the engine, and will be moving on to eBay and Bricklink.

Thanks to atomic for inspiring me to finish, and for Tony for making the instructions!

So glad that I was able to inspire you! You'll love the end results after it's all done!

Edited June 29, 2016 by atomic80

[SavaTheAggie]

I believe you are confusing axles and pins. Axles are "+" the whole length. Pins are circles.

--Tony

[atomic80]

I believe you are confusing axles and pins. Axles are "+" the whole length. Pins are circles.

--Tony

Do you mind showing me a picture of what part you're referring to?

[oirad 72]

this moc is fantastickkkkkkkkkkkk!!!!

[storms26]

Tony, do you think that putting some of Zephyr's custom rods on the engine would work? I'm interested in buying some for my other engines, so I've been thinking about buying some for the 4449 as well.

[SavaTheAggie]

I think we are getting quite a bit away from the MOC and hijacking this thread into a realm the Moderators are probably not very happy with. Further questions about the Daylight instructions would be better handled via email.

Do you mind showing me a picture of what part you're referring to?

Bricklink has a fantastic catalog spanning every part ever made. These two types of items have their own individual category.

http://www.bricklink.com/catalog.asp

Tony, do you think that putting some of Zephyr's custom rods on the engine would work? I'm interested in buying some for my other engines, so I've been thinking about buying some for the 4449 as well.

He's actually got a kit he's selling of rods and stickers for this specific model.

--Tony

[atomic80]

I'm finally finished after months of getting parts, testing, experimenting, building cars, etc.. The end result was well worth the effort. My next step would be to ensure that everything looks good and then apply the decals.

Detail shots of the train as requested

LEGO Daylight Express 4-8-4 by Jason Tang, on Flickr

LEGO Daylight Express 4-8-4 by Jason Tang, on Flickr

LEGO Daylight Express 4-8-4 by Jason Tang, on Flickr

LEGO Daylight Express 4-8-4 by Jason Tang, on Flickr

From top to bottom, sleeper car and two passenger cars. I hope to build an "end" car one of these days.

LEGO Daylight Express 4-8-4 by Jason Tang, on Flickr

The decals from zephyr with the custom rods that he also created.

LEGO Daylight Express 4-8-4 by Jason Tang, on Flickr

Top view of the cars

LEGO Daylight Express 4-8-4 by Jason Tang, on FlickrLEGO Daylight Express 4-8-4 by Jason Tang, on Flickr

Detail shots of the front of the locomotive and tender. You can see the IR receiver sticking through the top of the tender here. You can also see the modifications I made to the top front "smoke stack" section to include the plates for the engine numbers. Tony's original instructions did not have this plate.

LEGO Daylight Express 4-8-4 by Jason Tang, on Flickr

LEGO Daylight Express 4-8-4 by Jason Tang, on Flickr

The setup on the temporary track layout.

LEGO Daylight Express 4-8-4 by Jason Tang, on Flickr

And a video too. Click on the image below to go to the video.

LEGO Daylight Express 4-8-4 by Jason Tang, on Flickr

Tony, do you plan to create an "end" car? And zephyr, will you be making extra decals for the "cars" as well? I suppose I could use the engine decals on the cars if the dimensions are correct.

Edited June 30, 2016 by atomic80

[zephyr1934]

I'm finally finished after months of getting parts, testing, experimenting, building cars, etc.. The end result was well worth the effort. My next step would be to ensure that everything looks good and then apply the decals.

Detail shots of the train as requested

...

Tony, do you plan to create an "end" car? And zephyr, will you be making extra decals for the "cars" as well? I suppose I could use the engine decals on the cars if the dimensions are correct.

Looking good! Why not take a stab at the end car on your own? Perhaps use the 6005 arch for the end,

You'd have to figure out how to do the windows, but a hinge brick might help you do it with panels.

As for the decals let me PM you.

[Lego Dino 500]

It's official, I definitely am gonna brick link this for my birthday. Maybe by then there'll be a end car?

[SavaTheAggie]

I do plan on building an 8-wide observation car, but I have other projects I need to finish first. I'm also debating on whether or not I'll lengthen my passenger coaches. The instructions I offer will remain unchanged, because I believe those are as long as coaches you'd want on standard curves. But my club runs ME model track, and true to-scale coaches should be anywhere from 50 studs to 80 or 90. I won't go quite that long, but an extra 4 or 8 studs may be in my future.

--Tony

[Lego Dino 500]

I do plan on building an 8-wide observation car, but I have other projects I need to finish first. I'm also debating on whether or not I'll lengthen my passenger coaches. The instructions I offer will remain unchanged, because I believe those are as long as coaches you'd want on standard curves. But my club runs ME model track, and true to-scale coaches should be anywhere from 50 studs to 80 or 90. I won't go quite that long, but an extra 4 or 8 studs may be in my future.

--Tony

That's cool SavatheAggie! Good luck with the end car build, every single time I've tried one, it comes out a incomprehensible mess. Increasing the length will definitely help the proportions, my train car builds are usually 7X42X8 studs and they have a decent proportion.

[atomic80]

I do plan on building an 8-wide observation car, but I have other projects I need to finish first. I'm also debating on whether or not I'll lengthen my passenger coaches. The instructions I offer will remain unchanged, because I believe those are as long as coaches you'd want on standard curves. But my club runs ME model track, and true to-scale coaches should be anywhere from 50 studs to 80 or 90. I won't go quite that long, but an extra 4 or 8 studs may be in my future.

--Tony

I honestly don't think the passenger cars need to be any longer. They're perfect the way they are. Have you thought about creating a baggage car also? That would be cool to have too. I look forward to seeing what the observation car looks like.

[Dark Assassin YT]

I am new to eurobricks and the SP daylight is one of my favorite trains and I would like to know how to buy the building manuals. Please reply, thank you

Edited July 8, 2017 by Dark Assassin YT

[Murdoch17]

11 hours ago, Dark Assassin YT said:

I am new to eurobricks and the SP daylight is one of my favorite trains and I would like to know how to buy the building manuals. Please reply, thank you

You can find his instructions for a lot of his models here at his Bricklink shop: SRW locomotive works

Oh, and by the way: you might not want to bump topics that are this old just to ask for instructions. Please see this topic for more info on site guidelines....