Thirdwigg's MOCs

[Thirdwigg]

I'm back at it.

The chassis is done and everything is working well.

A draft of the bodywork and bed has been completed. Green will be difficult. No 1x11 and 1x5 liftarms complicates the build (I know there are 1x5 thin liftarms, but after a look on Bricklink, the effective problem does not go away). I may try a version in white or Light Bluish Grey, but both seem lame. 

What would you do?

[Imanol BB]

Looks really nice, i think that the color depends of which will it be thought to be, if it is going to be a service truck, grey should match, but if it is going to be more like a personal or recreation vehicle, then white, by the way, have you tested it with blue?

[Thirdwigg]

I haven't though of blue, but I may try it. I'll try a couple of options, and post here for feedback.

[vliet]

Maybe blue for a private version or orange or yellow for a professional version.

[Imanol BB]

1 minute ago, vliet said:

Maybe blue for a private version or orange or yellow for a professional version.

Exactly, and i think that even red could work for a "private" version too:

http://hq-wall.net/wall_preview/14689/mercedes-benz_unimog_4720209.jpg

[Thirdwigg]

To further prove my poor decision making abilities, I have published instructions for my Typhoon.

If you are interested, check it out on Rebrickable.

[BasvanO]

Planning and trying to get the parts together to build the Iveco xtr.

i like that model a lot, and having just started building Lego technic again after 27 years this seems to be a nice challenge!

 

Bas

[Thirdwigg]

I'm not sure this warrants another thread, but I made this little rolloff dumpster truck. The little homage to set 8065 only has one function.

More can be found at Thirdwigg.com. Enjoy.

 

Edited March 16, 2017 by Thirdwigg

[Thirdwigg]

Awesome thanks @LvdH. I'm not at a place to check the LXF file, but it looks correct. The bottom of the chassis under the cab is only a pair of 1x4 and 3x3L liftarms, which looks correct from your image.

[Thirdwigg]

Back to building here in Thirdwiggville. This time a simple helicopter.

So, should it be US Coast Guard Red and White, or Royal Navy Red and Grey? Maybe you can convince me to do the Yellow and Red, but that is unlikely as it's been done.

[1gor]

12 hours ago, Thirdwigg said:

Back to building here in Thirdwiggville. This time a simple helicopter.

So, should it be US Coast Guard Red and White, or Royal Navy Red and Grey? Maybe you can convince me to do the Yellow and Red, but that is unlikely as it's been done.

 

This red and white was my favorite, hm  or this one - a classic  

Edited March 24, 2017 by I_Igor
almost forgot to remove image when quoting - it is early morning

[Thirdwigg]

Here's an update. The gearbox has been placed, and the general body work parts are done.

[Thirdwigg]

I rebuilt a couple of old MOCs to try out my new Fischertechnic tires I purchased from ebricks.ru.

While I may find fewer applications for these 60mm tires compared to the 80mm ones, these offer a great look for smaller offroad projects. 
The fit is perfect, and the traction is better than the 56 tires. Check some out if you get a chance.

Edited May 9, 2017 by Thirdwigg

[nerdsforprez]

Ha! These r great. Most the time when we discuss third party tires we focus on 1.9 size tires.  Smaller ones are great too though.

[Thirdwigg]

Winter in the northern hemisphere for me means building, so I am hard at work on a number of different things. The Cat 914K is about done, and the Claas Atos is done. Now I am working on a couple of implements.

Also, why not start another Unimog?

[jorgeopesi]

I want to see the cat I love wheel loaders.

[Thirdwigg]

2 minutes ago, jorgeopesi said:

I want to see the cat I love wheel loaders.

Here is the WIP.

[jorgeopesi]

59 minutes ago, Thirdwigg said:

Here is the WIP.

Very cute machine.

[Sjoemie himself]

Nice implements and Unimogs.

I can recognize a few of them. Looks like a Lemken frontpacker, a Claas (round)baler, a rotary harrow and front/rear mowers? 

[Thirdwigg]

OK, I have been looking at this for far too long. After too many transmission designs, I'm not sure this does what I want it too. See below:

Are the ratios in this 4 speed transmission in the correct order?

Input to engine to engine is the black 20t gear on the left. Output to rear axle is the DBG 8t gear on the right. Is everything right? What do I need to change?

[Didumos69]

21 hours ago, Thirdwigg said:

OK, I have been looking at this for far too long. After too many transmission designs, I'm not sure this does what I want it too. See below:

Are the ratios in this 4 speed transmission in the correct order?

Input to engine to engine is the black 20t gear on the left. Output to rear axle is the DBG 8t gear on the right. Is everything right? What do I need to change?

Few things:

• I assume we are looking at the left side of the gearbox, the side that should have 1st gear (rear clutch engaged) and 2nd gear (front clutch engaged).
• I don't understand the 16t gear on the right and ignore it.

This is a gear setup that should work. Green is input (engine side) and yellow is output (rear axles side). It will give you ratios: 1:5 in 1st gear, 1:3 in 2nd gear, 3:5 in 3rd gear and 1:1 in 4th gear. Alternatively you can use the axle with the 20t gear as input, the one next to the input axle in the render. That will give you ratios: 1:3 in 1st gear, 5:9 in 2nd gear, 1:1 in 3rd gear and 5:3 in 4th gear. Or you can have the output axle engage with the axle to its other side. That would give you ratios: 3:5 in 1st gear, 1:1 in 2nd gear, 9:5 in 3rd gear and 3:1 in 4th gear. You can of course move each gear pair (black or dbg) from the front side to the back side of the gearbox or vice versa, as long as they are attached to the same axle and each pair remains engaged.

Edited February 12, 2018 by Didumos69

[Thirdwigg]

@Didumos69 Thanks. This is the kind of help I needed.

To your assumptions:

• Yes, you are looking at the left of the gearbox. The close side is 1st and 2nd gear.
• The 16 tooth gear in the back is for the steering, so it can be disregarded for this conversation.

Your render confirms my fears, basically, my current installation (photo) is backwards. I'll switch the gears to be like they are shown in the render, and have the output be the 20t gear, as it will link to a 16t on the crankshaft. If I understand correctly, this will give me the following:

1. 1:3
2. 5:9
3. 1:1
4. 5:3

Thanks for your help.

 

[Didumos69]

14 minutes ago, Thirdwigg said:

@Didumos69 Thanks. This is the kind of help I needed.

To your assumptions:

• Yes, you are looking at the left of the gearbox. The close side is 1st and 2nd gear.
• The 16 tooth gear in the back is for the steering, so it can be disregarded for this conversation.

Your render confirms my fears, basically, my current installation (photo) is backwards. I'll switch the gears to be like they are shown in the render, and have the output be the 20t gear, as it will link to a 16t on the crankshaft.

If I'm correct you only need to change the gears at the front side of the gearbox: Make sure the 24t gear and the 20t gear are on the right side of the gearbox, and their counterparts (8t gear and 12t gear respectively) on the left side. The 16t gears underneath the clutch gears and the 8t gears in the back are okay

14 minutes ago, Thirdwigg said:

If I understand correctly, this will give me the following:

1. 1:3
2. 5:9
3. 1:1
4. 5:3

Yes. EDIT: That is, the gearbox ratios itself, so not taking into account the crankshaft-input ratio and output-differential ratio.

Edited February 12, 2018 by Didumos69

[Thirdwigg]

@Didumos69 Right, the ratios or only for the gearbox, the other gears for the rest of the driveline work well currently, so I won't change those.

I'll need to make some changes to the frame to accommodate the gear changes, but that should not be too much of a problem. Again, thanks for your help.

[Didumos69]

Let me know how this works out.