skyliner Posted January 5, 2013 Posted January 5, 2013 (edited) At £68.99, why bother. For another £11, you can but the whole set get a further 1000 or so other parts and a pretty box. Thanks for your insight and input 'Hopey' , i will explain for your benefit :) Yes if you are in the uk the set is £80, however the set is actually selling at £129 on ebay, i guess these sets are going abroad where the set is not yet on sale. You also need to take into account 15% for international, paypal and ebay fees, etc and the time it takes to source the set, sort and post parts etc. This auction is just to give people a chance to get the hubs early who are outside the uk simple as that perhaps they should contact you? can you help them? maybe you can help them cheaper? i will reduce from that price :) regards steve Edited January 5, 2013 by skyliner Quote
Meatman Posted January 5, 2013 Posted January 5, 2013 At £68.99, why bother. For another £11, you can but the whole set get a further 1000 or so other parts and a pretty box. Maybe you can, but I sure can't. Quote
Paul Boratko Posted January 6, 2013 Author Posted January 6, 2013 (edited) Alright... I built some suspensions with the new hubs and worked them into a chassis and I have found a problem with them(the new hubs) that Lego IMO really needs to take care of.. There is some substantial wobbling going on, not only between the center hub and the New outer hub mounts with both the steering ones and the fixed(rear) ones, but there is also a lot of play when you snap the wheels to the center hubs, much more than with the older black hubs...The 3 pins on the center hub just don't fit as tightly as the black ones do... This is something that wasn't quite as noticeable with the portal axles on the Unimog and Crawler because there were axles being used that helped give a bit more support with an axle being used that went through the back of the portal axle, through a gear and then into the center of the back of the hub... This is primarily a problem if you are planning on snapping the the CV joints into the Hubs because there is no way to give any additional support... If you are using them in a live axle, this shouldn't be as much of a problem... Edited January 6, 2013 by Paul Boratko Quote
Paul Boratko Posted January 6, 2013 Author Posted January 6, 2013 Well, after lookng over my wife's crawler and unimog, I guess they also have some wobbling issues... Quote
SNIPE Posted January 6, 2013 Posted January 6, 2013 won't using a small center cross axle like a 2l reduce the wobbling of the three pins? Quote
Paul Boratko Posted January 7, 2013 Author Posted January 7, 2013 I was actually using 3L axles through the wheel and into the hub and they do help a bit, but it is still noticable... You can only catch 1/2 a stud of axle into the hub without pushing the cv joint out... Quote
allanp Posted January 7, 2013 Posted January 7, 2013 I've only really noticed this when using the wheels from 8448, the holes in that wheel don't seem to be deep enough, but I will double check with other wheels. Quote
SNIPE Posted January 7, 2013 Posted January 7, 2013 (edited) If it's 8448 try setting it so it is the rotation where it isn't quite lining up with the holes of the wheel then twist the wheel slightly so it does and put the pins in it. I did this with the technic pulley that has the 6 pinholes in it and that worked but might cause wearing. If you really want try using a threaded axle with a nut either side so it is clamped onto the wheel hub. mine don't seem to do this with the standard model wheels maybe its a bad part. Maybe have a 4l with stop but the stop is on the part where a cv joint would go and have some bushes on the other side where the wheel front is. Edited January 7, 2013 by SNIPE Quote
jorgeopesi Posted January 7, 2013 Posted January 7, 2013 A big design problem in my opinion, I wanted but it looks that my old 8880 pieces still have a lot of work to do . Quote
allanp Posted January 7, 2013 Posted January 7, 2013 Oh no, they're still better than the 8880 hubs IMHO. Quote
jorgeopesi Posted January 7, 2013 Posted January 7, 2013 Oh no, they're still better than the 8880 hubs IMHO. I'm talking about being able to do little width driveshafts . Quote
rm8 Posted January 7, 2013 Posted January 7, 2013 Still don t understand what is the prolem. Please somebody record and post video with demonstration of hubs's problem. Please:) Quote
Hopey Posted January 7, 2013 Posted January 7, 2013 Still don t understand what is the prolem. Please somebody record and post video with demonstration of hubs's problem. Please:) I can't post a video, since I don't have the set, but I think I get it. Get a unimog/crawler portal axle + hub. Put a wheel on it, including gears within the portals. Note how much play there is in the wheel, i.e. how much it can move around, other than just rotating like it's supposed to. Now take out the axles and gears, and try it again. The axles stabilises the hub somewhat, so there's a little bit more play now, although I can't really notice it. The new hubs, when driven via a CV joint, or not driven at all, don't have such an axle, so have this amount of play. I think that's it. Quote
Paul Boratko Posted January 7, 2013 Author Posted January 7, 2013 Here is a short video showing this wobble... Quote
Zerobricks Posted January 7, 2013 Posted January 7, 2013 So they made hub attachments stronger, but the hub itself is more wobbly than the old one... Too bad... Quote
jorgeopesi Posted January 7, 2013 Posted January 7, 2013 (edited) It looks like Tim tool Taylor worked on them... epic fail... Thanks for the movie Paul. Edited January 7, 2013 by jorgeopesi Quote
Erik Leppen Posted January 8, 2013 Posted January 8, 2013 I also wouldn't be surprised if we don't see the steering arms used much(or at all) in the future as well.. These new hubs offer many unique ways to mount them... I can only assume that the way that I have used them in this front suspension module is probably how the B-Model for the 42000 is set up using this piece as the steering pivot point... That is a friction pin. This means you're introduction a lot of friction to the entire suspension. I personally don't like that. I'd rather use the suspension arms with towballs. Fortunately this is entirely possible with the new hub parts and I don't see any disadvantages to that. Add to that the new 5 x 1/2 beams with axle holes at the ends, that can be used to reinforce the top and bottom suspension arms, much like is done in 8880 and 8865. By not using the old style towball hubs, you also now have more stability and won't need to reinforce the old steering arms with a liftarm to keep them uniform... This was never needed if you mount the spring to the upper arm (as you did). But it still needed if you mount the springs to the lower arm (as 8880 and 8865 do) because the suspension pushes down the lower arm which pulls it apart from the hub. Quote
Paul Boratko Posted January 8, 2013 Author Posted January 8, 2013 (edited) That is a friction pin. This means you're introduction a lot of friction to the entire suspension. I personally don't like that. I'd rather use the suspension arms with towballs. Fortunately this is entirely possible with the new hub parts and I don't see any disadvantages to that. Add to that the new 5 x 1/2 beams with axle holes at the ends, that can be used to reinforce the top and bottom suspension arms, much like is done in 8880 and 8865. This was never needed if you mount the spring to the upper arm (as you did). But it still needed if you mount the springs to the lower arm (as 8880 and 8865 do) because the suspension pushes down the lower arm which pulls it apart from the hub. I covered everything that you said here about building a stable suspension with these parts in post #21... Edited January 8, 2013 by Paul Boratko Quote
Paul Boratko Posted January 8, 2013 Author Posted January 8, 2013 (edited) That is a friction pin. This means you're introduction a lot of friction to the entire suspension. I personally don't like that. I'd rather use the suspension arms with towballs. Fortunately this is entirely possible with the new hub parts and I don't see any disadvantages to that. Add to that the new 5 x 1/2 beams with axle holes at the ends, that can be used to reinforce the top and bottom suspension arms, much like is done in 8880 and 8865. This was never needed if you mount the spring to the upper arm (as you did). But it still needed if you mount the springs to the lower arm (as 8880 and 8865 do) because the suspension pushes down the lower arm which pulls it apart from the hub. I wasn't talking about the steering arms pulling apart because of where the shock was placed, I was talking about them staying uniform and not having more of a twist with the increased space between the top and bottom of the hub(as compared to the old ones), now that thicker liftarms can be used, it's easier to keep everything tighter without having to re-enforce anything plus you can decrease the length of the liftarm to 5L(rather than the 6L of the steering arm) to give you more space in between... You still need to support the 6L steering arms with thin 5L liftarms on the sides even if you are using the shock on the top one because like I said this increase to 3L between the top and bottom has more play and twist than it did with the old hubs only being 3L total, so you are basically forced to use extra support with the steering arms no matter how you use them with the shocks now... Edited January 8, 2013 by Paul Boratko Quote
Meatman Posted January 8, 2013 Posted January 8, 2013 (edited) Speaking of friction, one thing that I didn't like with the black hubs from the 8070 was that there was friction on the top and bottom ball joints and it affected the side to side steering somewhat. Funny though the black ball pin doesn't have this same friction when inserted into the socket of the steering arm despite appearing to be the same size. Paul, how much friction does that center hole pin piece that you used have when the suspension is compress and decompressed? Edited January 8, 2013 by Meatman Quote
Paul Boratko Posted January 9, 2013 Author Posted January 9, 2013 Speaking of friction, one thing that I didn't like with the black hubs from the 8070 was that there was friction on the top and bottom ball joints and it affected the side to side steering somewhat. Funny though the black ball pin doesn't have this same friction when inserted into the socket of the steering arm despite appearing to be the same size. Paul, how much friction does that center hole pin piece that you used have when the suspension is compress and decompressed? The friction from those pins when using the Hard Spring shock (the yellow one) is unnoticeable... And the fact that those pins do have friction securely holds the liftarms together... The friction from the pin isn't a factor with any of the suspensions that I've built so far... But of course everyone is entitled to their own preferences and opinions.. I don't know what is up with the black hubs... I have had issues in the past too where some of the black hubs seemed to have more friction than other ones did... The balls from the steering hubs must be a micro millimeter larger than the regular ball pins.. Quote
jorgeopesi Posted March 19, 2013 Posted March 19, 2013 I thought about the new pieces are good for medium size trucks, sure somebody is working with them... Quote
Thebicyclestory Posted March 19, 2013 Posted March 19, 2013 Thanks for sharing your thoughts Paul! ;) The old styled hubs also appear in the 8297 set... Quote
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