Indeed! especially the bottom one is very nice, now we have a good use for flex at last ;)

That flextrack crossing looks brilliant :)

Well, that's 8 pieces of flextrack put to good use.

Case to share how exactly you did cut the pieces up?

In my version of a DIY rail crossing, I've used flex track. The first one i made was a bit of a mess, but these two are usable. I glued the track with acetone. That works perfect for Lego.

I would also love any indication on where or how you made the cuts!

Please share some details on how you cut the tracks. For both of the setups with flex track. This looks very good!

I made the square version so I can give you some instructions on my way to do it.

Parts used: 4 flextracks

Tools: Hacksaw, vice, sharp knife, 6x1 plate.

(I do not have a dremel but a slightly oversized saw at leasts gives long straight cuts)

This was my first goal, when put together the 6x1 trackparts at the sides will stabilize the connected 'base' flextracks.

Make the cuts:

1. For the 'base' flextracks cut of the 4 inner studs using the side of the track as guide for the saw to make a straight cut.

2. Take one of the other tracks and cut off all 4 studs in the same way, an accurate cut will make it fit in the 6 stud hole on the base.

3. Place the 6x2 plate as a guide and make a cut from below the track prepared in 2) to make the two 6x1 side connections shown above.

My plate came out unscratched but it is not a guarantee...

4. You can now put the tracks together to make a stable square.

You can also mount it on 8x2 and 6x2 plates to see that it fits the stud grid or needs extra shavings.

Use the side tracks as a guide to place the sawcuts at the edge of the holes in the base track,

then remove the sidetracks and work yourself down to track level and finish off by

carving away the scraps and polishing up with a sharp knife.

Since it is flextrack some parts are just cut away with no need to make perfect holes.

Now we are missing some tracks to fill in the middle, at least the flextrack is smooth for gluing on

but when we are finished with the last flextrack there won't be much left....

5. First I cut off the protruding PF connecting parts to get straight ends. (It is still too long but this was how I did it...)

6. Place the saw against the inner side of the flextrack to cut off each side cleanly,

then the part in a vice with the cut upwards like this:

6. To get tracks that can be placed in our crossing we need to remove 1 baseplate from the thickness,

from this point of view you need to place the saw to remove all of the rough plastic from the prevous cut.

Even if the part will give away while you cut it you will come almost through and just need some shaving with the knife to finish.

If uncertain it will be easier to scratch down a slightly too thick piece than to get ut perfect on the first attempt.

7. The inner tracks are still a bit too long and needs to be cut. I cut away the bit having a small inlet for the PF connection.

Note that you might need the gap from a straight flextrack since compressing it might make it flex into a curve...

This was my end result today, I have yet to add glue or acetone and try it with real trains.

I can't comment on how much work that went into the original crossing in this thread

or the 30 degree crossing - but I think that it would have cost me many more

flextracks, glue and cursing unless this dremel thing is much better than my tools...

Edited January 5, 201411 yr by pacc

Indeed! especially the bottom one is very nice, now we have a good use for flex at last ;)

LOL!

I agree ...the second one is very nice!

Thanks for your nice instructions pacc! Much appreciated, will try it in time.

Have a look at this HOWTO do a x-cross track out of LEGO parts without glue or breaking them.

http://www.youtube.c...?v=_i6OWkxXtuoç

And here it is an endurance test.

Hope you like