Technic Ideas Book 8891

[Chilly]

Hiya

I'm having trouble with the cable car from Technic Ideas Book 8891. Can't get the "reversing" feature to work properly.

Has anyone else made this model work?

It uses a "floating" sub assembly which when pushed forwards or backwards, engages a different pair of gears to drive the cable car along the string.

No matter how much I've fiddled, adjusted, tweaked, I just can't get it to mesh cleanly both ways.

Thanks

Ann

Edited February 3, 2013 by Rufus
Fixed topic title

[Jim]

Hi,

Welcome to EB!

I haven't built any of these models, so I have no experience with it.

Here's the link to the book:

http://lego.brickinstructions.com/instructions.php?code=8891

[DLuders]

@ Chilly: Could you point out which one of these six Lego Idea Book 8891 images (pages 34-39 from the Brickfactory.info instruction scans) illustrates the problem the best? All of the building instructions are shown below:

[Chilly]

Hiya

Step 3 shows the two 8 tooth gears that mesh with the two crown gears shown in steps 4/5. The upright "bits" with the lift-arm on the right-hand side of step 5 move the axle with the 8 tooth gears from side to side, thus enabling forward and reverse - as shown by the top right hand pictures on page 35.

I've got it all built, checked it, double checked it........ The bits don't seem to move the axle enough. I've looked at all my loose parts and other sets to see if I can work a better way round, but failing at the mo.

I know I can get it to reverse by using the reverse button on the battery box, but that isn't the point. (My next step would be to swap the old style battery for the new PF one with a remote............

Hope that makes sense.

Thanks

Ann

[CP5670]

I built this model a while ago and that mechanism worked perfectly. Try using different sizes of rubber bands. If they have too much tension in them, it might not switch when it hits an obstacle.

[Chilly]

I've sorted it. Made some adjustments to the design.

Now, how best can I draw it up? I have experience using PhotoShop and CorelDraw, but no Lego Design Software. Any suggestions please?

thanks.

[Jim]

I've sorted it. Made some adjustments to the design.

Now, how best can I draw it up? I have experience using PhotoShop and CorelDraw, but no Lego Design Software. Any suggestions please?

thanks.

With a picture of the real thing

Otherwise, LDD is pretty straightforward.

[Alasdair Ryan]

I would recommend using Mlcad and the free version of SR3D.

Edited January 28, 2013 by Alasdair Ryan

[Jim]

I would recommend using Mlcad and the free version of SR3D.

In my opinion, installing LDD is the easiest way for a beginner. MLCad and SR3D are better if you have some more experience.

[Alasdair Ryan]

In my opinion, installing LDD is the easiest way for a beginner. MLCad and SR3D are better if you have some more experience.

Yeb I know but you need to star some were,LDD is not very good for technic models because of it's lack of parts.

Also there is bands and cables that she might want to generate which cant be done in LDD yet.

Edited January 28, 2013 by Alasdair Ryan

[Jim]

Yeb I know but you need to star some were,LDD is not very good for technic models because of it's lack of parts.

Also there is bands and cables that she might want to generate which cant be done in LDD yet.

That's true. I was thinking one would omit the bands and cables to show the modified construction. But technically, you are right

Edited January 28, 2013 by Gekke Ted

[Alasdair Ryan]

That's true. I was thinking one would ommit the bands and cables to show the modified construction. But technically, you are right

I started in Mlcad and then moved to SR3D then to LDD.

Now I can use any of them.......

I hate being right for so much of the time.....

[Jim]

I have been working with all three CAD solutions and LDD is without a doubt the best for starting with digital Lego design. It's easy to install, it's easy getting used to the interface, semi-automatically installation of new parts, etc. You can design models in a matter of minutes. There aren't that many parts missing from the library in the latest version.

However, there are some limitations....where SR3D and/or MLCad take over.

Beginner, use LDD. Dedicated user with certain non-beginner goals, use SR3D or MLCad.

[Chilly]

So I've started to draw it using LDD and after 19 "bricks" I'm frustrated. Can't find 2 x 2 corner plate, 1 x 1 plate, 1 x 12/14 technic bricks. Going to give up and go for the next level.

I've sorted it. Made some adjustments to the design.

Now, how best can I draw it up? I have experience using PhotoShop and CorelDraw, but no Lego Design Software. Any suggestions please?

thanks.

(Perhaps to be fair, I should have started by saying I Teach Photoshop and Corel, not just use them.)

SR3D or MLCad ?

[Alasdair Ryan]

Sr3d is much better,so I would use that one.

You can use Mlcad and Lpub later to make instructions for your model if you wish.

[dhc6twinotter]

I use MLCAD. I hear good things about SR3D, but it doesn't seem very intuitive, and I've just about given up on it.

[Chilly]

Well, the good news is that I persevered with LDD and have drawn up some of my changes. Does it always take longer to draw than to build in the first place? If yes, I might not bother again, although the alternative of taking photographs doesn't show up the changes too well.

Anyway, here is the link to the changes on the lower section to accommodate the PF motor and IR, although I cannot get it to let me put the battery box in. It fits fine, but I guess the software thinks the space is too small..........

.html"]http://www.readypedalgo.co.uk/Lego/Building%20Instructions%20[Cable%20Car%20mods].html

The battery box goes in by removing the two yellow bushes and axles, then threading the axles through the lower holes in the battery, and replacing the bushes.

And finally, is there a way to put numbers by the axles? Haven't found it yet........

Thanks

[Alasdair Ryan]

And finally, is there a way to put numbers by the axles? Haven't found it yet........

Thanks

Unfortunately not,however you could edit your instruction (copy&paste the images) onto a Microsoft power-point doc and then add part sizes that way.

[Jim]

Very nice! Well done. I am not sure whether you can put numbers by the axles. Using the right color (grey and black) will help a bit.

(edit: it appears you can't, thanks Ryan)

I think building with actual parts is faster. However, sometimes you lack the parts or you just want to try something. Then designing with software might come in handy. I sometimes use a CAD program when I don't want to bring my Legos downstairs (I build at the kitchen table).

Of course, it also depends on your skills with the software.

Edited February 1, 2013 by Gekke Ted

[Alasdair Ryan]

(edit: it appears you can't, thanks Ryan)

First you think I live in France,and now you call me by my last name....

[Chilly]

And finally, the changes I made to the top half of the cable car.

ftp://readypedalgo.co.uk@213.171.193.5/htdocs/Lego/37%20mods.jpg

ftp://readypedalgo.co.uk@213.171.193.5/htdocs/Lego/38%20mods.jpg

I took a grinder to the inner flange of the two 8 tooth gears (that are between the motor and the top section),so they would sit closer together. (Naughty but necessary.)

It runs very smoothly now.

Edited February 1, 2013 by Chilly

[CP5670]

I use MLCAD. I hear good things about SR3D, but it doesn't seem very intuitive, and I've just about given up on it.

I still use MLCad too. SR3D is far more powerful and sophisticated, but the interface and controls are awkward. I spent some time with it and set up a lot of mouse/keyboard shortcuts for the various commands, but still found it clumsy to use. MLCad's controls are more like a standard 3D modeling program.

Building with actual parts is always faster though, especially with Technic.

[allanp]

Have added the parts to build all the models to rebrickable if anyone wants to know if they have the parts to build.

http://rebrickable.com/sets/8891-1/idea-book-8891-technic-technic-1991