Sheepo's Land Rover 110 review

[lazylegoist]

Thank you very much for the review!

Overall: 9.45/10 , a must build!

And you get 9/10 points for your review − basically, it's perfect, but I deducted one point for your revolting spelling of the word "suspension". ;)

[Blakbird]

And you get 9/10 points for your review − basically, it's perfect, but I deducted one point for your revolting spelling of the word "suspension". ;)

And "differencial" (sic).

I was going to write my own review and have taken numerous photos towards that end, but it now seems like there is little point since allanp did such an excellent job of documenting the build and features. Thanks for all the hard work!

I am building mine out of order. I did the bodywork first and then moved on to the axle assemblies and chassis. All I have left now is the gearbox, so it is interesting to see the pile of parts that will be used exclusively for the gearbox. This pile alone is larger than many medium Technic sets.

[Meatman]

Great review. Thanks so much! It's probably not the best idea that it is required to use the new styled smooth connector with those driving rings since they are not meant to be used together, but I guess you have to do what is necessary to make things work. So are all of these other modifications needed for the model to function or are they just improvements? I also have a question about the suspension and the shock absorbers, it appear that there may be stress on the shocks because of a lack of pivot points for forward and backwards motion. Like on the 9398 crawler the shocks are mounted to freely move around without stressing or slightly bending the shock.

I will definitely be purchasing these instructions, more so just to see how everything works because there are so many great features that have me memorized. Also Congratulations on the 10,000 supports at Cuusoo Sheepo! You deserved it!

Edited February 28, 2013 by Meatman

[timslegos]

I was going to write my own review and have taken numerous photos towards that end, but it now seems like there is little point since allanp did such an excellent job of documenting the build and features. Thanks for all the hard work!

I would still like to hear your opinion as well.

tim

[davidmull]

I did a little experiment: If you don't have any spare parts and looking for a shop at BL which have the most unique lots (167 of 184) you have to spend 763,22 euros. And this just gives you 2679 of 3439 parts. BTW: This shop is quite an expensive one but I did this just for fun. Nevertheless spare parts are highly recommended!

Mmm that's quiet expensive for parts, I wonder is there any sets you could use to even half the number of parts, also what other colour could you build it in that would look nice too?

[Rishab N]

Mmm that's quiet expensive for parts, I wonder is there any sets you could use to even half the number of parts, also what other colour could you build it in that would look nice too?

Well I think you could use the unimog as it would give you the wheels, springs, and many other useful parts

[bmollema]

Good to see that this design hit 10.000 now see that the decision wiil be

Thanks for the review this will help during the build........can anybody tell what is the build (+/-) time for this module?

[CisFran]

And "differencial" (sic).

I was going to write my own review and have taken numerous photos towards that end, but it now seems like there is little point since allanp did such an excellent job of documenting the build and features. Thanks for all the hard work!

I am building mine out of order. I did the bodywork first and then moved on to the axle assemblies and chassis. All I have left now is the gearbox, so it is interesting to see the pile of parts that will be used exclusively for the gearbox. This pile alone is larger than many medium Technic sets.

for sure another excellent review from Blakbird is also much awaited!

Edited March 1, 2013 by francisalmario

[stefan_betula_pendula]

Mmm that's quiet expensive for parts, I wonder is there any sets you could use to even half the number of parts, also what other colour could you build it in that would look nice too?

As already mentioned in the other topic I will try to build a red version. The challenge here is to replace all the LBG parts which don't exist in red but I already checked the instructions and it seems not to be too difficult.

Edited March 1, 2013 by stefan_betula_pendula

[allanp]

Thank you very much for the review!

And you get 9/10 points for your review − basically, it's perfect, but I deducted one point for your revolting spelling of the word "suspension". ;)

Haha yeah, I blame my keyboard!

[nychase]

Perhaps this review can show that my models meet what you can see in my videos;), and delete the distrust in me and my models ;)

Oh, I completely trust you and your models. Just like I trust that I will one day soon be building the Bugatti and 911 ;)

I would love to build this in white and with a roof (probably add extra springs to counter the sag) although I haven't actually checked to see if the parts are available but I think they are. I worked at a LR dealer in High School and got to take a white 110 on the course since one came in on trade. Along with the D90 the 110's are very, very rare in the US so being able to drive one was quite a treat (especially on the obstacle course). I have never even seen a D130 in person.

[Blakbird]

I finished building mine at 1 a.m. last night. I spent several hours staring at everything as I built it, figuring everything out. It is truly a marvel and there is no doubt that it introduces concepts and mechanisms that have never been done in LEGO before. Here are some of my own photos with some brief observations.

This first photo shows a box of parts I bought. These are for the Land Rover and one other model. Anyone care to guess what the other is?

This shows the collected pile of parts, partially sorted into electric, special, liftarms, gears, thin liftarms, and other. The pile is not even quite complete because another order of liftarms had not arrived yet when I took the photo.

Liftarms.

It is a matter of some uncertainty within the LEGO community just how many gears it takes to make a Technic model awesome. I think we can all agree though, that whatever that minimum number is, this is over it.

Massive pile of pins, axles, and connectors. Remember, there are 3500 parts!

Thin liftarms. These parts tend to be relatively rare, so this is certainly by far the largest number of them I have used in one model.

Wheels and electrics.

Edited March 2, 2013 by Blakbird

[Alasdair Ryan]

Blakbird are you building jurgens backhoe?

[dikkie klijn]

Whoa that's a lot of pins. I wonder what the other model is .

[Blakbird]

I've finished the rest of the pictures. This shows the completed model in all its glory. If you look closely, you might spot one part substitution I made due to not having what I needed.

This shows the bodywork and chassis which can be separated in seconds by pulling 4 pins.

This shows one of the few things which I did not like about the model. This is the motor which controls the switching between 2WD and 4WD. It is cantilevered a long way forward with no side support, so when the linkage rotates in pushes itself outward and bends the attachments alarmingly. It has not actually come off though. I can't find a good way to do anything about it. The area is far too dense with other structure to add much of anything.

The chassis can be quickly separated into receivers, front and rear axle assemblies, frame, and gearbox/drivetrain.

Here is the biggest marvel of the whole model: the gearbox. It would take a whole new topic with dozens of photos to explain how this thing works.

So I'll ask myself the same question allanp asked: Did it work right away? Yes! And no...... It actually worked fine when I was testing it with just the chassis, but then it stopped working when I attached the bodywork. I spent many, many hours troubleshooting. I made the same change as allanp adding a 3rd red rubber band to the slider. That made it more reliable. I also added the guide to the clutch linkage like he did which holds things in place a bit better. Still worked as a chassis but not with the body. Eventually I discovered that the receiver wires were fouling the shift linkage when the body pressed them down. It is important to route the wires on the passenger side as much as possible as shown in the picture below. The wiring diagram in the instructions shows you how to connect the wires, but is not very accurate in terms of routing because the lengths are not accurate. I think there is also some variation. For example, it was impossible to connect my steering motor per the instructions because the wire was not long enough. I had swap the channels of the left and right receivers and then I got everything to fit. Even after my wiring fixes, it still wouldn't shift reliably with the body on though. The issue in particular is when shifting down which is when the shift linkage moves aft. You can hear the motor straining and there is no satisfying sound of the slider clicking into place. It appears that the blue linkage return springs do not have enough force to return the linkage to neutral. If I add another band it has more return force but now the motor can't reliably move the linkage. So I finally gave up and I'll just drive it without the body.

It is not very surprising that a model of this complexity has some fiddly adjustments to make to get it to work right. Whether it is ever perfect or not, you still learn a lot by the process of assembly and testing.

Blakbird are you building jurgens backhoe?

Nope, that's not it.

Whoa that's a lot of pins. I wonder what the other model is .

At first I was going to give you a hint but then I saw who wrote that comment. I bet you can guess accurately.....

[dikkie klijn]

At first I was going to give you a hint but then I saw who wrote that comment. I bet you can guess accurately.....

Well the number of individual electronics give a good indication .

[AndroTech]

Now you told us all, it's Dikkie Klijn's Tow truck.

And on the Land Rover, you don't have 3x3 clear-trans dish for headlight, so you put smaller.

[allanp]

I did the same thing with the recievers because the steering motor wire was not long enough.

[Alasdair Ryan]

I look forward to seeing BigDikkie's tow truck,you will need to remember to make a review of it while building.

[davidmull]

I would really love to build something this complex,it's an amazing model but the fact blakbird had a few issues kind of puts me off,no point going to all the rounds if it doesn't drive with the body on.

Has anyone else built this?

[Meatman]

I would really love to build something this complex,it's an amazing model but the fact blakbird had a few issues kind of puts me off,no point going to all the rounds if it doesn't drive with the body on.

Has anyone else built this?

I am still a bit skeptical in how that gearbox runs with all of those gears(See 5th pic in post #40) using all of those perpendicular connectors to space out the gears, because even in the small models that I have built using perpendicular connectors on an axle like that, there is some adjustment to get a simple gearbox mechanism to operate and have just a small amount of gears mesh smoothly. So anyone that has built this, do you have to tweak the connectors back and forth to get this to work? I really want to buy these plans, but not if there are too many issues.

[Blakbird]

I would really love to build something this complex,it's an amazing model but the fact blakbird had a few issues kind of puts me off,no point going to all the rounds if it doesn't drive with the body on.

It drives fine with the body on, but it does not always shift up reliably. With enough effort, I'm sure I could figure out the problem. I actually think it is more fun to drive it with the body off anyway because you can see what it is doing and the reduced weight helps the performance.

I am still a bit skeptical in how that gearbox runs with all of those gears(See 5th pic in post #40) using all of those perpendicular connectors to space out the gears, because even in the small models that I have built using perpendicular connectors on an axle like that, there is some adjustment to get a simple gearbox mechanism to operate and have just a small amount of gears mesh smoothly. So anyone that has built this, do you have to tweak the connectors back and forth to get this to work? I really want to buy these plans, but not if there are too many issues.

I always test the friction in all my gears as I build. In this case, I did not have any problem. The gears all turn smoothly and the backup structure is quite sturdy.

In my opinion, whether or not this creation is perfect is not the point. Nearly every Technic fan will learn a lot from building it. In my engineering experience, you learn a lot more from something that requires some tinkering than you do from something that works perfectly the first time. The tinkering forces you to think about it. I found that this worked pretty well right out of the box, but not perfectly. Every person will have their own definition of how much time they want to spend making it even better.

[jorgeopesi]

I agree with Blackbird, only a sporadic problem with any gear. The car obviously performs better without a body... as any car in the world that you take away weight .

[Merlord]

I finished the build one week ago. For me it's a masterpiece. There is so much detail and also these modularity. But...

I think that the not so good working gearbox is the price for this kind of build. I have the same problems like all other that you can drive without the body but not with him. I tried everything from 1 to 3 rubber and nothing works. There are 3 problems in my eyes. First, the switch between 4 and 5 has no zero point, its a question of luck that the switch will fall in neutral. Second, the coupler is not able to handle the weight of the car. Most of the time especally in 5 the driving ring in the coupler will fade out from gear an the mechanic is not able tho resist. Last, there are to much dead gears. In 1 you have eleven gears to drive without need. This brings a lot of resistance to the motors.

Anyway, i have no idea to make it better :-) From building view it looks perfect. I think this car reaches a border between the used technic and the usability in relation to its original.

Edited March 30, 2013 by Merlord

[TechnicMati]

I am amazed by the whole model. The look of the Land Rover is stunning. But I'm not convinced of the gearbox. I am generally not convinced of gearboxes that use drive rings and switches. My experience tells me that these kind of applications don't perform well, don't keep the gear if there is too much torque or speed. As far as I am concerned I only accept two kinds of gearboxes: Sariel's 2 heavy duty speed gearbox with the motor moving back and forth and a 2 speed gearbox where a shaft (axle) moves back and forth (12 and 20 teeth gears used). I rather praise efficiency and reliability of a gearbox than a bigger number of speeds.

Edited March 29, 2013 by TechnicMati