Sheepo's Land Rover 110 review

[Merlord]

Today i had time to play something around. Got the clutch stable but then the problem changes to the drive rings in the gearbox. What is funny is that if i drive forward there comes a moment of stopping the car from to much resistance without any mechanical fail. If i drive then backwards (without switching) i can drive endless. Looks like the resistance of the mechanic himself is too big. I tried a lot of different axle connectors for the drive rings in fact that the build quality of this pieces will vary heavily. I found a combination so that switching is no more a problem but with every step forward it will be clearer that the gearbox is not able to handle the weight of the car. This is in my opinion not a problem of Sheepo, it is a problem of the possibilities with drive rings. But everyone who likes the car should keep in mind, that for the huge price for the parts you get not a working model. I think also Lego will reject the car not for the complexity but for the instability of the gearbox. Maybe as suggested in another thread they came up with the conclusion to make better parts for gearboxes, Who knows?

[Lipko]

As I see it, this model iS about the gearbox, and all these mechanical wonders. No models come without trade-offs. The trade-off of this model is that it doesn't work from the box, uses a few illegal techniques and requires a lot of tweaking to even work (and no central differential...).

This is quite the opposite of official sets, where mechanical complexness and realistic features are traded-off for reliability, working from the box, prize, better overall model etc.

I personally prefer the TLG way, but without the business point of view.

[Merlord]

The trade-off of this model is that it doesn't work from the box, uses a few illegal techniques and requires a lot of tweaking to even work (and no central differential...).

Can you tell us who the "few illegal technics" could be found? From my point of view there are no such. The missing central differential has nothing to do with the functionality or the quality of this MOC.

The problem is, that even with a lot of tweaking you got it not to work right.

[Lipko]

Can you tell us who the "few illegal technics" could be found? From my point of view there are no such.

Read the posts in the thread, for example the first.

[PlaneCrazy]

I agree with Blackbird, only a sporadic problem with any gear. The car obviously performs better without a body... as any car in the world that you take away weight .

Finally got my 110 working to my satisfaction.

I also agree with Blackbird, it works fin without the body. Combination of weight of the body and the motor cables being a little short and therefore pushing down on the top of the gearbox.

One thing I would like to try is fitting dual suspesion on the rear as when I have the 110 sitting on the shelf on display it has a litlle squat in the back end. I know dual shocks are not true to the design but I feel it might provide a more asthetically pleasing display.

I have to admit I reverted to the silicon spray to reduce friction. It worked a dream.

All functions work as advertised without the body fitted. As soon as I fit the body it is not so happy.

I never expected a perfect working model as something of this complexity is not going to work straight out of the box as it were.

I can highly recomend this to anyone who is up for a challenge. To me this is what Technic is all about.

Sheepo, congratulations on a great model and it is in my mind the model in which others will be compared. Well done.

Oh I learnt the hard way about using the old style 16t gears. Take my word for it, don't.

It was so funny when it let go as it ejected one of the 16t gears near the radiator fan straight out the bonnet.

Jamie

[ffltt]

I built a good it，but walking is below the previous XL motors will fight tooth clutch

I built a good him, but walking is below the previous XL motors will fight tooth clutch

[kevman]

I built a good it，but walking is below the previous XL motors will fight tooth clutch

I built a good him, but walking is below the previous XL motors will fight tooth clutch

I don't quite understand what you are saying.

[Meatman]

I wonder if he is saying that the 16 tooth clutch gears are disengaging?

[MrTekneex]

I will be biased, but if I were Sheepo I get angry. Is it okay to do a review, but post the images of the building, with all the secrets that it contains, does not look right.

[allanp]

I will be biased, but if I were Sheepo I get angry. Is it okay to do a review, but post the images of the building, with all the secrets that it contains, does not look right.

Please do not reveal the secrets. In my review I tried to keep the revealing of secrets to a minimum so that people would be encouraged to buy the instructions from him.

[MrTekneex]

You can be sure!

[Ricbatista]

Great Review, have mine still in a box with all The Parts to begin building soon. Alter building, will try t had a snorkel, And a hood.

Someone talked about dual suspention in The back, Fire figthers 110 has dual shock in The back, to support Water tank.

Besr Regards

Will be back here when i complet mine

Thanks to sheepo And allanp for The Review

Best Regards

Ricardo

[Technyk32231]

Instead of putting a cv joint and a u joint in the front axle, couldn't there have only been the cv joint, or is the axle not long enought coming out of the dark gray cv joint.

[ffltt]

I don't quite understand what you are saying.

the 16 tooth clutch gears are disengaging

[kevman]

Can anyone suggest a good lego set to buy that might contain a lot of similar parts? I'm looking for a reasonable way to get a lot of parts quickly. I do have a 9398 crawler and 41999.

Edited August 27, 2013 by kevman

[captainmib]

This set contains so many parts (and lots of them black/grey) that it's hard to just buy some sets.

8110 will get you wheels and grey panels, beams, gears and one m-motor and lots of other usefull stuff.

8258 will get you more gears, and a xl motor, but is hard to get.

bricklink is probably a better option, but all in all it's expensive.

or, if color is not a problem, you can use parts you get within those sets, and use what you already have.

[MrTekneex]

This set contains so many parts (and lots of them black/grey) that it's hard to just buy some sets.

8110 will get you wheels and grey panels, beams, gears and one m-motor and lots of other usefull stuff.

8258 will get you more gears, and a xl motor, but is hard to get.

bricklink is probably a better option, but all in all it's expensive.

or, if color is not a problem, you can use parts you get within those sets, and use what you already have.

Exactly! To build it I started using these two sets!

[kevman]

thanks, im not too concerned about color for now. would these two set give me all the parts needed? i tried procing it out on bricklink and the cost was around $700 usd. i figure i can get the unimog and crane truck for roughly $550 or so. thoughts?

[MrTekneex]

thanks, im not too concerned about color for now. would these two set give me all the parts needed? i tried procing it out on bricklink and the cost was around $700 usd. i figure i can get the unimog and crane truck for roughly $550 or so. thoughts?

At this point you'll want to buy all the pieces in Bricklink, because with these 2 Set arrivals perhaps half of the parts you need.

[allanp]

Instead of putting a cv joint and a u joint in the front axle, couldn't there have only been the cv joint, or is the axle not long enought coming out of the dark gray cv joint.

The CV joint is there because the UJ is not inline with the steering which causes the axle to bend and extend as you operate the steering. The CV joint allows this to happen. If you want to remove the CV joint you should modify it so that the UJ is in proper alignment with the steering, which may prove tricky.

You can be sure!

Thankyou

[jorgeopesi]

Talking about joints I did this long ago to use the new joints for the transmission.

[ffltt]

I am very troubled，Walking is always Kaka sound

[Technyk32231]

The CV joint is there because the UJ is not inline with the steering which causes the axle to bend and extend as you operate the steering. The CV joint allows this to happen. If you want to remove the CV joint you should modify it so that the UJ is in proper alignment with the steering, which may prove tricky.

Thankyou

No, I mean putting the dark gray cv joint on the end to move the pivot point one stud closer, or in line.

[allanp]

No, I mean putting the dark gray cv joint on the end to move the pivot point one stud closer, or in line.

Oh I see, that would indeed move the steering in line however, you are then left with the problem of having not enough length on the axle to mount the brakes and the wheels.

[BJP LEGO]

Thanks for this review.

All those pictures helped me to build it.

Without instructions.

Why I don't buy instructions?

Because my mom says no:(

But I got everything working.