Your parts wishlist

[legomuppet9]

I'd find this part very useful

Pin hole with Four pin connectors by legomuppet9, on Flickr

For when you need to connect four beams in a tight space...

[aczkasow]

Round 2 stud diameter “plate” with three axle pin holes, each apart 120° — to replace crankshaft middle part, which allows us to make engines with correct piston stroke sequences, and the same plate with two holes 146° apart (twice 72° a pentagon angle)

An inverted toroidal “cone” with axle pinholes on its sides to be able creating a toroidal continuos variable transmission

[Someonenamedjon]

I'd find this part very useful

Pin hole with Four pin connectors by legomuppet9, on Flickr

For when you need to connect four beams in a tight space...

You can actually build that, but without the center hole.

[jovel]

3 functions through turntable:

[rchan016]

How about a new, strong bevel gear, like the existing 20t but stronger ?

A wheel with large hub and small tire, so you can pack it full of steering parts for better steering geometry ?

A larger "clutch" gear similar to the existing 16t clutched gear, but in 24, 36, and 40t

A stronger 36t gear

[legomuppet9]

You can actually build that, but without the center hole.

Yes but I want the center hole...

[Chilly]

I want longer tow-ball/axle connectors. Mine won't stay connected in my 8880. They're always coming off.

[Someonenamedjon]

Yes but I want the center hole...

it will also be easy to make u joints that way too.

[z3_2drive]

it will also be easy to make u joints that way too.

oooh yes it would but it would need to be without the 'friction ridges' .... maybe lego just needs to make stronger u-joints as a single piece? I think it's been a long time since we've gotten an updated u-joint...

[legomuppet9]

oooh yes it would but it would need to be without the 'friction ridges' .... maybe lego just needs to make stronger u-joints as a single piece? I think it's been a long time since we've gotten an updated u-joint...

2008... that's not long compared to the last one (1973-2009)

[z3_2drive]

2008... that's not long compared to the last one (1973-2009)

my bad, still, anything can happen...

[Someonenamedjon]

Well, i wish they would bring back the red one, but 3 L

[Porty]

my bad, still, anything can happen...

Well, i wish they would bring back the red one, but 3 L

Your avatars together look funny... I agree about the u-joints...

Edited April 7, 2013 by Porty

[SheepEater]

female technic figures.

[Chilly]

female technic figures.

Never mind just Female, how about any TECHNIC Figures, in current (fashionable) clothing?

[Carsten Svendsen]

There are some things I've always wanted since ever.

First one: A part that can connect two beams that has got ½ a stud offset

Second one: A part that can connect two beams that has got ½ a stud between them.

Up until this point, I have relied heavily on my substitution skills and the pole reverse handle

[Saberwing40k]

Never mind just Female, how about any TECHNIC Figures, in current (fashionable) clothing?

Yeah, but if you build big enough, you can use figma figures instead. Along the lines of this, maybe make the figures a bit bigger, or smaller for scale?

[Someonenamedjon]

Yeah, but if you build big enough, you can use figma figures instead. Along the lines of this, maybe make the figures a bit bigger, or smaller for scale?

So even ones ranging to a little bigger than a minifig to even ones that can sit its self in the unimog!

[Saberwing40k]

I've made mock ups of two of my ideas:

F motor

It's a high speed motor, longer than the L motor, and faster. The orange connectors represent output shafts, with the second one on the motor passing completely for direct wheel connection.

Trafficator box.

It's an integrated box for making turn signals. The black tile is a switch controlling witch output port gets turned on when the channel this thing is connected to is activated one way or the other. The round knob is to control flashing rate, the red and blue tiles simply indicate left and right.

I've also got more ideas:

5x5 flat panel

5x7 flat panel

5x5 frame

an updated version of the flex system

32 and 48 tooth gears, to allow more options with 16 tooth gears.

Studless gear racks, without the stupid end connectors. The ones with the end connectors are only useful for steering, really. For crane booms and other things you need to use the old 4L gear racks. I kind of want updated versions of those, sized the same as existing gear racks.

[SNIPE]

Here is something ive been working on,

The reason is that I think The LEGO Company have to take into account usability, matirials, ease of manufacter, saftey, strengh, etc this part can be used as a 32184 part but with the cross and pinholes inverted, you simply get another one and rotate it so its connectedby the cross holes in the center however this is also compabable with thin beams and other connectors.

Note that the section linking the two holes is solid, and dosnt go in and has no tiny slit cut out for the axle hole (not that official 0.5L axle holes do anyhow)

This can be used as a reguar 32184 but can hinge in the middle either by 90 degrees in the cross hole or more finley by linking the two pin holes together in the middle.

If you put two pin holes/axle holes back to back you get another new connection too.

You can put two together like a 6536 but put a cross hole with a pin hole and a cross hole with a pin hole, now it will be able to hinge in two places.

If you have thin liftarms you can put them with this too for example a ++,+o+,+oo+ or +ooo+ liftarm can be added to the crosshole of this connector . 42003

Edited April 11, 2013 by SNIPE

[Boxerlego]

I agree with everything I've seen so far.

Here are my additions:

-One of these , but with the axle and pin hole reversed.

Now this would be usefull for making centrifugal governors, because you have the axle hole in the middle and the pin holes on the out.

Here is something ive been working on,

The reason is that I think The LEGO Company have to take into account usability, matirials, ease of manufacter, saftey, strengh, etc this part can be used as a 32184 part but with the cross and pinholes inverted, you simply get another one and rotate it so its connectedby the cross holes in the center however this is also compabable with thin beams and other connectors.

Note that the section linking the two holes is solid, and dosnt go in and has no tiny slit cut out for the axle hole (not that official 0.5L axle holes do anyhow)

This can be used as a reguar 32184 but can hinge in the middle either by 90 degrees in the cross hole or more finley by linking the two pin holes together in the middle.

If you put two pin holes/axle holes back to back you get another new connection too.

You can put two together like a 6536 but put a cross hole with a pin hole and a cross hole with a pin hole, now it will be able to hinge in two places.

If you have thin liftarms you can put them with this too for example a ++,+o+,+oo+ or +ooo+ liftarm can be added to the crosshole of this connector . 42003

That would be a great part to use with the thin liftarms.

You probably already know mine, but for the sake of completeness, here's some of my renders.

And some of Barmans awesome ideas:

That is alot of good ideas right there. I agree that there needs to be more free floating gears sizes beside this gear--> and gears in general. The Differential definitely needs to be made stronger.

[allanp]

I'm working on a new diff design, 3:1 reduction, 3 times stronger than the one we have, compatible with both spur and bevel gears, requires the addition of a single belt to make the diff action stiff for off roading. Still trying to think of a good way of making it easily lockable within a 3 wide area.

Edit, here ya go!

Edited April 11, 2013 by allanp

[GuiliuG]

It's the dreamed differential for all technic builders ! Good job :)

[efferman]

i want this diff, but it is possible to produce it with acceptable costs?

[skppo]

Can someone explain why it would be great? Obiviously it is stronger but what else?

I'd rather have a 3x3x3 diff gearbox, possibly with metal gears. Most of the time the large size and needed bracing makes

the current diff hard to use and yours seems even bigger.