N-4K0 Posted May 7, 2013 Posted May 7, 2013 Ok... I probably imagined something else than what it is Quote
Technyk32231 Posted May 7, 2013 Posted May 7, 2013 Every itme a new part is released the forum starts a discussion on its usefulness and such. I was wondering, what sort of new parts would you like to see in production. Please share your ideas! Here are a few of mine: A shock absorber that has axle (or pin) holes in both ends facing away from each other. I made a fantastic picture to visualise this.This would allow things like MachPerson struts to be easier to build. PF radio reciever and radio controller. IR just isn't good enough. Especially outdoors, though technically lego isn't meant for outdoors anyway. Diffrent sizes of clutch gears for better and more realistic gearboxes. Narrower wheels and proper offsets inside. These add realism and make things a bit easier. Sorry if this thread isn't orignal. Wouldn't that shock absorber just pop out of the axles or pins? Quote
AVCampos Posted May 7, 2013 Posted May 7, 2013 I've been asked to forward the requests on this thread to the LEGO Ambassador forums, as well as a direct suggestion via e-mail, which I'm adding here to keep everything together. The suggestion is, just like there is the Technic beam 3x3 T-Shape, Benjamin Eberhard suggested similar, cross-shaped and H-shaped 3x3 beams. I made and attached here some crude mockups of the ideas. Quote
AKM_76 Posted May 8, 2013 Posted May 8, 2013 Towball connection for the shock absorbers, seems very important for me. Somehow possible now (using 57515 part) but I'd like to see more easy way. Quote
allanp Posted May 8, 2013 Posted May 8, 2013 I've been asked to forward the requests on this thread to the LEGO Ambassador forums, as well as a direct suggestion via e-mail, which I'm adding here to keep everything together. Awesome! Quote
Doc_Brown Posted May 8, 2013 Posted May 8, 2013 I've been asked to forward the requests on this thread to the LEGO Ambassador forums, as well as a direct suggestion via e-mail, which I'm adding here to keep everything together. The suggestion is, just like there is the Technic beam 3x3 T-Shape, Benjamin Eberhard suggested similar, cross-shaped and H-shaped 3x3 beams. I made and attached here some crude mockups of the ideas. The H shaped one is great, Just was building a gearbox and wished I had something like that! I'm a professional 3D modeller and if there is anything anyone needs visualized, just let me know! BTW, is not this is a new curved panels on a 42009 Mobile Crane MK II set, picture above? YES it is! nice spotting! I can;'t wait for this model now! I'm working on a new diff design, 3:1 reduction, 3 times stronger than the one we have, compatible with both spur and bevel gears, requires the addition of a single belt to make the diff action stiff for off roading. Still trying to think of a good way of making it easily lockable within a 3 wide area. Edit, here ya go! Totally awesome! I want this soo bad!@ Great job creating it. :thumbup: Quote
Blakbird Posted May 8, 2013 Posted May 8, 2013 The H shaped one is great, I would prefer if it were "I" shaped. Quote
Boxerlego Posted May 8, 2013 Posted May 8, 2013 I've been asked to forward the requests on this thread to the LEGO Ambassador forums, as well as a direct suggestion via e-mail, which I'm adding here to keep everything together. The suggestion is, just like there is the Technic beam 3x3 T-Shape, Benjamin Eberhard suggested similar, cross-shaped and H-shaped 3x3 beams. I made and attached here some crude mockups of the ideas. I'm working on a new diff design, 3:1 reduction, 3 times stronger than the one we have, compatible with both spur and bevel gears, requires the addition of a single belt to make the diff action stiff for off roading. Still trying to think of a good way of making it easily lockable within a 3 wide area. Edit, here ya go! Why not put these ides up on cuusoo?! Quote
jovel Posted May 8, 2013 Posted May 8, 2013 This new part has it's holes the same as the X beam ( but ofcourse it's round and has 2 axle-holes instead of pin-holes ). Quote
Someonenamedjon Posted May 8, 2013 Posted May 8, 2013 (edited) Nice find! Edited May 8, 2013 by Someonenamedjon Quote
Chilly Posted June 9, 2013 Posted June 9, 2013 I want longer tow-ball/axle connectors. Mine won't stay connected in my 8880. They're always coming off. Finally made some, and got round to taking photos..... Quote
Junpei Posted June 9, 2013 Posted June 9, 2013 @Doc_Brown could you model a u-joint but with a 2l axle on one end and a 1.5l axle on the other? Quote
Nazgarot Posted June 9, 2013 Posted June 9, 2013 I have made a few alterations to the idea for a axle U-joint that I presented in this thread (see replay #31 and #40). I have designed a axle U-joint with a 3l axle on one side and a 1,5l axle on the other side. This would allow for mounting a wheel on the 3l side as most rims have a 2l axle mount in the center, and connecting a CV joint on the other (the 1,5l side) for a total length between joints of 4 studs. This would make for a very compact independent suspention setup, and a lot of flexibility as the U-joints can be disconnected and assembled in any configuration u like, with the classic 1l axle connector, the old with a half stud extra distance in the joint or the two axle lengths... -ED- Quote
Junpei Posted June 9, 2013 Posted June 9, 2013 How about this? Or should the 3l axle be on one end so the steering radius is better? Since I am quite new to technic, I don't have any 6l steering arms (I haven't made a bl order yet) but they can be easily modified to be 4l. Quote
Nazgarot Posted June 9, 2013 Posted June 9, 2013 Or should the 3l axle be on one end so the steering radius is better? Since I am quite new to technic, I don't have any 6l steering arms (I haven't made a bl order yet) but they can be easily modified to be 4l. It should be 3l on one end, as the CV joint only has enough operation angle to work in the diff end. The steering end needs a 1,5l and 3l axle to connect to the CV joint in one end and the wheel in the other. -ED- Quote
N-4K0 Posted July 12, 2013 Posted July 12, 2013 (edited) some of Barmans awesome ideas: I really want this to be made. I'm MOCing a mower for my tractor MOC at the moment, and this would just be really useful to work as a drive shaft. Like the ones used between tractors and equipment: And for easier attachment or better use, I'd like to see the linear actuators with the attaching point in the opposite end of the outer cylinder. To the left of the number 3, at the edge of the outer cylinder: Edited July 12, 2013 by Error404 Quote
1gor Posted April 5, 2017 Posted April 5, 2017 First of all very sorry to bump into some older topic, but reading all those ideas and wishes about new parts, I have some ideas too which might be interested to someone and perhaps inspiration or idea for LEGO designers to develop such parts (sorry but I have no possibilities to make graphic representation for ideas listed below) thin connectors that will enable combination of two gears 12 tooth double bevel with half a stud space between pin holes... ...this part only one stud narrow with just one axle hole at the side and space for two thick beams inside... 12 tooth and 20 tooth double bevel gears to work with driving rings like this one ...combination of universal joint and gear with 8 tooth differential with 24 gear just 3 studs wide differential like this but 2 studs wide to fit inside this axle 2,5 studs long... smaller portal axle hubs etc... Quote
Milan Posted April 5, 2017 Posted April 5, 2017 1 minute ago, I_Igor said: differential like this but 2 studs wide to fit inside this Quote
1gor Posted April 5, 2017 Posted April 5, 2017 1 minute ago, Milan said: I'm working on one model so (selfish from me) this kind of differential will be more than welcome to make narrow portal axes for model in 1:18 scale. On daily basis I see beautiful small MOCs that are just crying for engine and drive, so this is really shame that our members make something what is actually unfinished business and big models are "big responsibilities", clumsy, very hard to operate manually (I'm making manual models because LEGO (and other electrical) motors are getting on nerves my wife and my pet...) Just imagine how this beauty would be cool with four wheel drive Quote
agrof Posted April 5, 2017 Posted April 5, 2017 Strong u-joints. I mean really STRONG (which actually could twist an axle, stall a motor withouth braking). And these parts, which don't crack. Quote
1gor Posted April 5, 2017 Posted April 5, 2017 1 hour ago, agrof said: Strong u-joints. I mean really STRONG (which actually could twist an axle, stall a motor withouth braking). And these parts, which don't crack. ...and not to worn out so easily...if you're lucky that they do no break Quote
N-4K0 Posted April 5, 2017 Posted April 5, 2017 I second agrof and I_Igor, the axle part of those connectors cracks way too easily over time the way they are made. Quote
msk6003 Posted April 5, 2017 Posted April 5, 2017 My want? Hum.... 1. 3x3x3 size S motor. Fast or slow is not important probram. 2. M motor size Servo motor. Don't need back output. 3. PF batterybox which using 9V battery. For more smaller size. Quote
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