Your parts wishlist

[1gor]

19 hours ago, Error404 said:

I second agrof and I_Igor, the axle part of those connectors cracks way too easily over time the way they are made.

from my experience you can make a bit longer life for axle connectors if you take a closet look to axles - usually axles should be put inside connector from one side where "hole" at the end is smaller...From one side usually axle goes harder inside axle connector...I hope that you understand what I mean, otherwise I'll try to make photos of axle

 

[efferman]

Simply uninversal joints which dont break

[Milan]

47 minutes ago, efferman said:

Simply uninversal joints which dont break

Yes, please!

[zor2ox]

I would love to have new engine block part for motorcycles :(

[kolbjha]

On 4/5/2017 at 7:29 PM, msk6003 said:

3. PF batterybox which using 9V battery. For more smaller size.

What about 4760c01? Problem is of course that you can't use it to power the PF receiver (you CAN use an empty PF BB in between... :-D ).

Edited April 7, 2017 by kolbjha

[msk6003]

17 minutes ago, kolbjha said:

What about 4760c01? Problem is of course that you can't use it to power the PF receiver (you CAN use an empty PF BB in between... ).

Can have soluction if I using aluminum foil but that is hard. And empty battery box? Well, another size problam.

[Aventador2004]

What about a 4l pin, another hub like 8070's hub, a 13l axle, and 17l and 19l beams

 

 

[Lasse D]

On 7/4/2017 at 4:24 PM, Milan said:

Yes, please!

Is this a common problem? I usually suggest to increase the axle rotational speed in order to reduce torque.

[knotian]

As a late starter with trains I am using the pf motors in MOCs. Most of the club has 9 volt track.

If there was a set of 9 volt wheels in a block with a pf connector on top. With that pf trains could run on powered tracks.

Ed

[AVCampos]

PF trains can also run on 9V track, they just don't get power from it.

[Milan]

5 hours ago, Lasse D said:

Is this a common problem? I usually suggest to increase the axle rotational speed in order to reduce torque.

I broke few of them. Others too. There are ways to reduce load on them, but at the end, lots of motors and heavy weight of the model is too much for them.

[AVCampos]

Still, there are many situations where U-joints aren't ideal, because of their speed-varying feature, which increases with the angle they are bent in. Aren't CV joints stronger?

[1gor]

20 hours ago, AVCampos said:

Still, there are many situations where U-joints aren't ideal, because of their speed-varying feature, which increases with the angle they are bent in. Aren't CV joints stronger?

CV joints are a bit stronger indeed, specially newer 3L universal joints. Important feature is that on overload CV Joints usually pop out and universal joints can break...From my experience when you want to built 4ws vehicle CV joints can be good solution.

[doug72]

To strengthen CV's use small rubber "O" ring  over the axle bush section or the method shown in Sariels guide book.
2L diam plate with 4 studs.

[knotian]

AVCampos;

I know that but you still have to have power to run. Having pickups from the powered rails to the pf motor would allow not having to build a battery into the train.

[AttentionSpanner]

On 4/2/2013 at 5:00 PM, skppo said:

Every itme a new part is released the forum starts a discussion on its usefulness and such.

I was wondering, what sort of new parts would you like to see in production.

Please share your ideas!

Here are a few of mine:

• A shock absorber that has axle (or pin) holes in both ends facing away from each other. I made a fantastic picture to visualise this.
  
  This would allow things like MachPerson struts to be easier to build.
• PF radio reciever and radio controller. IR just isn't good enough. Especially outdoors, though technically lego isn't meant for outdoors anyway.
• Diffrent sizes of clutch gears for better and more realistic gearboxes.
• Narrower wheels and proper offsets inside. These add realism and make things a bit easier.

 

Sorry if this thread isn't orignal.

I don't know whether someone else has covered this already, but how easy would it be to combine the 6.5L absorber with the #1 Axle/Pin connector?  I don't know how to draw it, but imagine a 7.5L absorber, with an axle hole directly on top of the pinhole... And possibly make the opposite hole an axle hole (not the one where the absorber and connector connect). If someone would like to make some drawing of that, that'd be great.