Limited Slip Differential

[Doc_Brown]

Hi Everyone,

Here is my solution to stopping diffs from spinning, which I find very annoying! haha

I'm not sure if anyone has done this before but works quite well as I tested with my 4x4 crawler. It does however kill the rubber bit.

What I did was literally shove the rubber 1x2 part (from unimog claw) into the older style "new" differential with the little slit in it.

This presses against the 12T gears and restricts their movement.

This may have other applications in gearboxes or something. LOL

Hope this helps with anyone struggling with this, who doesn't want a solid axle, but still wants the model to turn correctly!

This one below is freshly installed.

This is the one from my 4x4 crawler.

IMG_5962 by Doc_brown1, on Flickr

IMG_5960 by Doc_brown1, on Flickr

IMG_5967 by Doc_brown1, on Flickr

Edited April 14, 2013 by Doc_Brown

[AndyCW]

Can you show us a pic of one that has been well used to get an idea of the damage incured during operation? This would also explain the performance of your crawler with apparently open differentials.

v/r

Andy

[timslegos]

As far as I know I have never seen anyone use that method before, very clever!

tim

[Bzroom]

Seems almost like it was make for that!

[Doc_Brown]

Can you show us a pic of one that has been well used to get an idea of the damage incured during operation? This would also explain the performance of your crawler with apparently open differentials.

v/r

Andy

Here they are from the Crawler, Front and back, bit of a difference. HAHA

IMG_5968 copy by Doc_brown1, on Flickr

[AndyCW]

WOW. I have shattered some gears, chewed the teeth off of others, broken U joints and even made some custom half stud length axles, but never done something like that to a piece on purpose. It does seem to work though and that can't be argued.

v/r

Andy

[Boxerlego]

That is a very brute approach for a Limited Slip Differential. Have you tested any other material at doing this?

Edited April 14, 2013 by Boxerlego

[Doc_Brown]

WOW. I have shattered some gears, chewed the teeth off of others, broken U joints and even made some custom half stud length axles, but never done something like that to a piece on purpose. It does seem to work though and that can't be argued.

v/r

Andy

That is a very brute approach for a Limited Slip Differential. Have you tested any other material at doing this?

Well I wasn't expecting it to be that bad! haha, but you can always flip it and use the other end in the gears.

I just thought of gluing some harder rubber sheets together and then cutting out a custom piece, a heck of a lot cheaper!

Thanks for your comments too.

[DLuders]

Nice use for that 45590 "Black Technic, Axle Connector Double Flexible (Rubber)" part (which averages only USD ~$0.25 in cost). That part is not rare at all; it's being produced in 2013 sets and appears in 60 different sets. One could not build a compact, Limited Slip Differential with all-Lego parts with less than $0.25 in improvements.

[Someonenamedjon]

instead of the bevel gears only put in two of the 2x1 slim beam 2 cross thingys, that worked best for me and it doesn't grind your pieces.

[Kronos]

instead of the bevel gears only put in two of the 2x1 slim beam 2 cross thingys, that worked best for me and it doesn't grind your pieces.

Yeah, "cross thingys" is an official description term.... How about a part number or a pic?

Edited April 14, 2013 by Kronos

[DLuders]

He must mean the 41677 "Technic, Liftarm 1 x 2 Thin" part:

[Zerobricks]

You can do something simillar by usng the old 14 tooth bewel gears in diff hosung instead of 12 tooth gears. But it will wear out a diff and gears a bit.

[Someonenamedjon]

He must mean the 41677 "Technic, Liftarm 1 x 2 Thin" part:

Thanks Dluders!

[SNIPE]

Does this chew the rubber part up?

[DLuders]

Yes, it chews the rubber up, but who cares? The USD ~$0.25 rubber part can easily be replaced. Even real differentials have some maintenance requirements, and wear out.

I can't think of an easier way of improving the climbing performance of a stock-Lego 9398 4x4 crawler than locking the differentials. Just jamb those rubber parts into the differentials, and you're done! If you want to restore the differentials to their original state, just pry them out. Better tires would help that 9398 model too, but some "Lego purists" don't want to use them. So, the rubber part is a cheap, easy, 100% Lego solution.

.

Edited April 16, 2013 by DLuders

[Zerobricks]

There's just one issue. The rubber brick can only be inerted in older differential, the newer ones without slot have a closed square.

[Boxerlego]

The rubber part can go in the new differential like this. A little different setup. I haven't tested this. I guess it works a little like the 1X2 liftarm thin setup but with gears instead.

[Zerobricks]

I tried that, but the rubber tends to jam the gears. Try 14 tooth gears instead!

[Boxerlego]

I dont have any 14 tooth gears to try that out. Thanks!

[Alasdair Ryan]

I tried that, but the rubber tends to jam the gears. Try 14 tooth gears instead!

I dont have any 14 tooth gears to try that out. Thanks!

Bad news guys....that is not going to work,it jams the diff completely.

[Doc_Brown]

Yes, it chews the rubber up, but who cares? The USD ~$0.25 rubber part can easily be replaced. Even real differentials have some maintenance requirements, and wear out.

I can't think of an easier way of improving the climbing performance of a stock-Lego 9398 4x4 crawler than locking the differentials. Just jamb those rubber parts into the differentials, and you're done! If you want to restore the differentials to their original state, just pry them out. Better tires would help that 9398 model too, but some "Lego purists" don't want to use them. So, the rubber part is a cheap, easy, 100% Lego solution.

.

HAHA beat me to it! How does it perform?

There's just one issue. The rubber brick can only be inerted in older differential, the newer ones without slot have a closed square.

Yeh that's true. And the older ones hav a slot where some teeth are only half long, making it "crack" gears at this point.

[Jaggerbombs]

I came across a solution i think all of you would appreciate. I have the 9398 crawler love it btw, but i didn't like it when a wheel was in the air or had little traction that the wheel with traction became powerless so i spent a long time trying to figure out a solution. I now have limited slip differentials. the way i did this was wrap electrical tape tightly around the diffs. to do this without taking the diff out is to attatch the tape to the flat part of the diff and power the motor forward which pulls the tape around the diff.

[Doc_Brown]

I came across a solution i think all of you would appreciate. I have the 9398 crawler love it btw, but i didn't like it when a wheel was in the air or had little traction that the wheel with traction became powerless so i spent a long time trying to figure out a solution. I now have limited slip differentials. the way i did this was wrap electrical tape tightly around the diffs. to do this without taking the diff out is to attatch the tape to the flat part of the diff and power the motor forward which pulls the tape around the diff.

That sounds great! can you take a pic?

[Boxerlego]

I came across a solution i think all of you would appreciate. I have the 9398 crawler love it btw, but i didn't like it when a wheel was in the air or had little traction that the wheel with traction became powerless so i spent a long time trying to figure out a solution. I now have limited slip differentials. the way i did this was wrap electrical tape tightly around the diffs. to do this without taking the diff out is to attatch the tape to the flat part of the diff and power the motor forward which pulls the tape around the diff.

Hi, welcome to eurobricks Jaggerbombs. How many turns of tape did you do around the diffs?