Hi,

Recently I've got just a pair of 6571 and considering getting some other ones on the Bricklink, such as x873c01, 11949, 11950 or 92908c01. There is one more option to go - to make a custom wheel hubs from Lego parts using single axle connection (I prefer using 44772 56mm D. x 34mm Technic Racing Medium wheels). I heard some complains about the 11949, 11950 so instead of getting them all and testing by myself I decided to ask what do you think about them all?

I personally just have the ones you have, and otherwise just make my own custom hubs like I know sheepo does on almost all his MPS axles (http://www.sheepo.es/search/label/MPS) This way you can get more complex geometry's and more strength, if you don't mind them being slightly bulkier

The x873c01 is no doubt the best there is. It's more stable than the other normal wheel hubs.

The x873c01 is no doubt the best there is. It's more stable than the other normal wheel hubs.

I agree. However, the turning radius isn't great. Building your own may be the best option. Depending on what you need.

However, the turning radius isn't great.

Thats strange. Actually I've got the 8386 "Ferrari F1 Racer 1:10" for display purposes and I noticed that the turning radius is extremely sharp. It use x873c01 in combination with 32195b.

Thats strange. Actually I've got the 8386 "Ferrari F1 Racer 1:10" for display purposes and I noticed that the turning radius is extremely sharp. It use x873c01 in combination with 32195b.

The problem with steering radius comes as soon as you try to power the wheels. Any steered and powered axle with these hubs will have a bad turning radius do to the CV parts.

I personally solve this by using a custom hub. I have several designs I use depending on whether it's independent suspension or a stiff axle. I'm also working on a new setup for independent suspension, similar to what a Moxy dumper uses, that will employ a new design.

-ED-

The problem with steering radius comes as soon as you try to power the wheels. Any steered and powered axle with these hubs will have a bad turning radius do to the CV parts.

I personally solve this by using a custom hub. I have several designs I use depending on whether it's independent suspension or a stiff axle. I'm also working on a new setup for independent suspension, similar to what a Moxy dumper uses, that will employ a new design.

-ED-

Any examples? I'm going to post my test independent with the new hubs, that failed, hopefully someone can help haha.

Ive tried all of the hubs you listed and for good steering you need a hub with a hole large enough for the 'drive' to go through not just the axle, for example a UV joint, or a joint like on a 8880 super car set.

The hole must allow the drive to spin and hinge smoothly as well as having lots of clearance for it to hinge which means having wishbones that are far apart from top and bottom.

I have tried taking the spindle out of the x873c01, the UV joint fit fine and there was a little bit of space left over to house the small part sticking out of the cross hole of the wheels (0.5L)

The problem was that the wishbones were not far apart enough so it jammed and clicked.

The hubs from the 8880 supercar might be the answer but the hole may also be too big to use.

there is a spindle for this part but since there is a ridged ballinside it that can't have an axle going all the way through it it can only be used on the wheels from a 8880. There is a helicopter rotor plate that has 4 ball joints and a large center hole too

I would say 5L is that you need for wishbone spacing, and for the best results the pivot of the uv joint needs to be parallel to the pivot of the hub (not further back).

Edited April 21, 201311 yr by SNIPE

Any examples? I'm going to post my test independent with the new hubs, that failed, hopefully someone can help haha.

Here are a couple of examples. I have some more updated versions, but they are all based on the same idea. They will allow you to make very realistic steering setups, and angles. Both caster, variable camber, toe in and combination angles should be possible using a hub like this.

For implementation you could see some of my ideas on my brickshelf.

-ED-

Thank you!

Nazgarot, yes, very good. I see, though yours hubs are custom, you use combinations with 57515 a lot...

...some offtopic, how do you make pictures? LDD > LDD to POV-Ray converter > POV-Ray?

I think it's a screenshot, which you can find inbone of the menus at the top of LDD

Nazgarot, yes, very good. I see, though yours hubs are custom, you use combinations with 57515 a lot...

That is right. I like it because it has quite a good movement for the tow-balls. It is how ever a bit flimsy, so I often reinforce it by using a couple of (thin) lift arms beside it. I have also used it for a couple of stiff axles that I needed to give realistic angels, but it's really not good for smaller scale, as the axels become at least 15 studs wide measured form outside the wheels. I really hope TLG will launch a smaller part that can work as a receiving end for tow-balls. That would make it a lot easier to make good compact axles while still keeping them realistic.

For stiff axles it's an idea to make the "a-arm" in a slight angle. This tightens up the hub, and gives it less play, and at the same time it will help keeping the camber neutral under load. I have seen Effe use the same technique on some occasions. With my hubs you can do this by making the upper a-arms a stiff constructions, then place the lower ones at an angle making the inner side one stud higher than the tow-ball mount (the same way I did with my double wishbone).

I think it's a screenshot, which you can find inbone of the menus at the top of LDD

Jupp, that right, then I re-size them in paint... No need to make it harder than it needs to be.

Edited April 21, 201311 yr by Nazgarot

I really hope TLG will launch a smaller part that can work as a receiving end for tow-balls.

Thats seems to be my biggest request.

Jupp, that right, then I re-size them in paint... No need to make it harder than it needs to be.

I see, I never did a screenshot from LDD that's why I was wondering why there is no a background picture as in LDD viewer )))

What about these? I use these hubs a lot, as they are very versatile. You can move the ball joints to different positions, or even remove them for a floating axle setup. This setup also allows wheels to be driven, and there aren't any parts that are very rare.

http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=526963

What about these? I use these hubs a lot, as they are very versatile. You can move the ball joints to different positions, or even remove them for a floating axle setup. This setup also allows wheels to be driven, and there aren't any parts that are very rare.

http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=526963

The files in your folder is not yet made public ;)

Oh, sorry, I just posted those photos on Brickshelf about 5 minutes before this post. They should be up in about a day, maybe less.

What about these? I use these hubs a lot, as they are very versatile. You can move the ball joints to different positions, or even remove them for a floating axle setup. This setup also allows wheels to be driven, and there aren't any parts that are very rare.

http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=526963

Like them very much.

Like them very much.

Thanks. Those hubs are my own design, and they're very sturdy. You can also use them in place of standard hubs, as you can attach parts in the same places, and still achieve good steering lock, as there aren't any CV joints.