Custom parts

[AKM_76]

What is your experience about this topic? Just recently read about cut axles, what else did you modify? Did you clue parts? If yes, what type of clue is the best for Lego? Also curious if anybody cut 2739a link to adapt them to some connectors (to make them shorter-longer)?

[piterx]

the only cheats i have in the model im building are one 3axle cut into 3 pieces and a 1mm gauge into my clutch (just to make it work better than it does anyway)

[DLuders]

Yes, I have glued the Lego ABS plastic together with ABS glue (which one can get from a hardware store). I could care less if "Lego Purists" approve or not; it's my property and my decision.

[piterx]

ahah totally agree....lets say im a 99% purist....sometimes lego doesn't offer enough pieces for our ideas :P

[Carsten Svendsen]

I once had to glue pieces together when I made a Rubik's cubes just so it wouldn't fall apart in the core.

[D3K]

I was actually just thinking about glueing a couple of the old (flat bottomed) pneumatic cylinders together!

I only have a tube of Loctite superglue at hand, will that work? Says it glues plastic...

[Technic Gearhead]

They actually have plastic models ready to glue together that look more like the real thing once finished. Just don't get any clue on the windshields!

Once you start cutting, glueing, painting, etc it becomes something else IMO.

[Saberwing40k]

I was actually just thinking about glueing a couple of the old (flat bottomed) pneumatic cylinders together!

I only have a tube of Loctite superglue at hand, will that work? Says it glues plastic...

Now why would you do that? I only modify parts if that piece is both versatile, and non existant. I think you should just put the old cylinders together with normal parts and connections, and save the glue for when no other options are available.

Edited May 6, 2013 by Saberwing40k

[OleBM]

I cut and glue pieces all the time. I am more than willing to go to past the "extremes" to achieve a full building potential.

For example, in order to make a realistic gearbox, you will require a 28-teeth gear, which can only be found in this differential: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=73071

The solution? Let's say that you will need something sharp... Like a knife

What is your experience about this topic? Just recently read about cut axles, what else did you modify? Did you clue parts? If yes, what type of clue is the best for Lego? Also curious if anybody cut 2739a link to adapt them to some connectors (to make them shorter-longer)?

Why not just use towball connectors with short/long flexcables? I even made my own custom length flexcables once.

I was actually just thinking about glueing a couple of the old (flat bottomed) pneumatic cylinders together!

I only have a tube of Loctite superglue at hand, will that work? Says it glues plastic...

I work in an industrial hardware store here in Norway, and believe me, Loctite is one of the best glues you can get. I've tried several different ones, but the "loctite 416" is the best.

http://www.henkel.no/full-product-list-loctite-3912.htm?countryCode=no&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=000001FMT0 (norwegian site)

This is specifically for plastic, and dries up in 10-20 seconds. It's so strong, that you easily can glue an axle into a round pin hole, without hope of ever removing it without damaging the parts.

[legomuppet9]

I personally have never cut or glued anything, but I don't mind if others do, it's their money

[SNIPE]

I am thinking of making custom technic studded beams bricks, plates and tiles

The bricks and studded beams will be the same thickness as studless beams but I have found that there is still enough space for a clutch thought it does mean cutting a tiny hole in the bottom of each pinhole of the beam, however axles still rotate freely and pins fit in fine.

Bricks are also the same thickness as studless beams.

Plates and tiles are the same thickness as half thickness beams (0.5L).

yes only two plates equals one brick in thickness but this will be harder to build with as it will not be able to equal 1L.

I'm also going to add cut out studs so that half a stud building is more possible, and the two ends of the clutch will not be there as if you were using half a stud,it would get in the way of the stud (unless it is shorter than this beam)

It will be done with a small CNC miller, the problem seems to be cost, and a few other things like noise and where to have it.

Note that im not including the studs in the thickness as they go into a clutch or 1L/half beam thickness holes anyhow.

Edited April 24, 2013 by SNIPE

[1974]

Modding, cutting and gluing is just too easy. I prefer to stay in the official LEGO universe and figure out a solution to get things working without resorting to those methods

[z3_2drive]

I once cut some flex axles because I accidentally bought ones 2 studs too long, and didnt have the patience to make another order.

[Meatman]

Modding, cutting and gluing is just too easy. I prefer to stay in the official LEGO universe and figure out a solution to get things working without resorting to those methods

In my opinion, models that are cut, glued, and altered to achieve goals also are not respected as much by other builders. In fact, when I see parts that are custom made, I don't even bother really looking into the design, because I do not think of them as a legitimate build.

Edited May 6, 2013 by Meatman

[timslegos]

The only modding I have done is use 3rd party rock crawler tires on my trucks. They are far more grippy and pliable than the standard wheels!

tim

[OleBM]

In my opinion, models that are cut, glued, and altered to achieve goals also are not respected as much by other builders. In fact, when I see parts that are custom made, I don't even bother really looking into the design, because I do not take them serious as a legitimate build.

That's kind of a harsh thing to say. I consider creations with modified parts as having "the little extra" (but only if it's thouroughly made of course). And I think I speak for all us "customizers" when I say that we only customize parts if it will look/work/appear better than standard lego parts would

Edited April 24, 2013 by OleBM

[Technyk32231]

the only cheats i have in the model im building are one 3axle cut into 3 pieces and a 1mm gauge into my clutch (just to make it work better than it does anyway)

That isn't a good idea! There's a reason there are no one stud long axles. If you happen to push it into a piece like a long pin with end bush, it won't come out. Besides, axles are for connecting things, and the only thing you can connect with a one stud long axle is two thin liftarms.

[Doc_Brown]

This is a great topic. I consider myself to be 99% Lego Purist, but I will use 3rd party wheels simply because the larger ones look and perform much better. Also if you want to sell your large Lego wheels, not being scratched up with help with resale value.

Heres my contribution to custom parts, I simply had to do this as there is no other way to get the strength.

After installing a brand new CV joint and testing my Patria 8x8 I destroyed a CV in 4 seconds on level ground!

I feel this was necessary because I have not changed the part design or its function in any way, simply improved the material.

It works perfectly fine now, and I feel confident that it will withstand some offloading.

You could argue that without this mod the model would not be possible, and I would agree with you. However I'm trying to build the model like it really exists, and I believe dedication to accuracy is more important in most cases.

Feel free to express your opinion on what I have done. I don't effend, so all good. Just interested to know.

[piterx]

That isn't a good idea! There's a reason there are no one stud long axles. If you happen to push it into a piece like a long pin with end bush, it won't come out. Besides, axles are for connecting things, and the only thing you can connect with a one stud long axle is two thin liftarms.

yeah i know, but i used them to fill these rubber parts in the clutch to avoid damaging them :)

and added a 1mm gauge to the grey part on the central axle just to make everything more precise

[OleBM]

This is a great topic. I consider myself to be 99% Lego Purist, but I will use 3rd party wheels simply because the larger ones look and perform much better. Also if you want to sell your large Lego wheels, not being scratched up with help with resale value.

Heres my contribution to custom parts, I simply had to do this as there is no other way to get the strength.

After installing a brand new CV joint and testing my Patria 8x8 I destroyed a CV in 4 seconds on level ground!

I feel this was necessary because I have not changed the part design or its function in any way, simply improved the material.

It works perfectly fine now, and I feel confident that it will withstand some offloading.

You could argue that without this mod the model would not be possible, and I would agree with you. However I'm trying to build the model like it really exists, and I believe dedication to accuracy is more important in most cases.

Feel free to express your opinion on what I have done. I don't effend, so all good. Just interested to know.

This looks very nice! May I ask what you have put in there? Brass wire/rod?

And I totally agree with you. Sometimes, standard lego parts will not allow for a complete and functional model, simply because they just don't work. This is a brilliant example of just that.

[Doc_Brown]

This looks very nice! May I ask what you have put in there? Brass wire/rod?

And I totally agree with you. Sometimes, standard lego parts will not allow for a complete and functional model, simply because they just don't work. This is a brilliant example of just that.

Thank you very much. Arrh yes brass rod is correct! I should have said what it was.

[Someonenamedjon]

I have never modified parts before, if you exclude my nxt wire extension. I will however be using 3rd party tires, i found some that are WAY cheaper than the regular large tires that fit on the racing medium rims.

[z3_2drive]

I also made this odd mod of the 8466 chassis...It was one of my first technic models so I had few technic parts and decided to make an interesting body by hand... it was supposed to be a model of this:

so I got some paper and markers, plus an angle-connector skeleton, and got this:

not custom parts but a not-fully lego MOC

Edited April 25, 2013 by z3_2drive

[weavil]

Heres my contribution to custom parts, I simply had to do this as there is no other way to get the strength.

That's what I thought of doing when I eventually get some CV joints. I had to do a custom U-Joint (sort-of), here are they pictures.

https://www.box.com/s/ai8gf6r6n3l1vb50tlsn

https://www.box.com/s/5raxgadpk2h7008gna9v

https://www.box.com/s/twamj3wjplv9bxr66ikl

[Doc_Brown]

That's what I thought of doing when I eventually get some CV joints. I had to do a custom U-Joint (sort-of), here are they pictures.

https://www.box.com/...6r6n3l1vb50tlsn

https://www.box.com/...adpk2h7008gna9v

https://www.box.com/...3wjplv9bxr66ikl

WOW, very nice! never even thought of doing that.