weavil Posted April 29, 2013 Posted April 29, 2013 tried all combination of 32209, 32073, 61903, and 9244. Nothing worked. So I had to swap them. And turn out need the other "new custom U-Joint" (since it makes 2 of them) for another situation 10 minutes later... Quote
Balrog Posted April 29, 2013 Posted April 29, 2013 This u-joint mod is brilliant. And it is still "original" parts, since you didn't cut or glue. Quote
Junpei Posted May 5, 2013 Posted May 5, 2013 (edited) This is a great topic. I consider myself to be 99% Lego Purist, but I will use 3rd party wheels simply because the larger ones look and perform much better. Also if you want to sell your large Lego wheels, not being scratched up with help with resale value. Heres my contribution to custom parts, I simply had to do this as there is no other way to get the strength. After installing a brand new CV joint and testing my Patria 8x8 I destroyed a CV in 4 seconds on level ground! I feel this was necessary because I have not changed the part design or its function in any way, simply improved the material. It works perfectly fine now, and I feel confident that it will withstand some offloading. You could argue that without this mod the model would not be possible, and I would agree with you. However I'm trying to build the model like it really exists, and I believe dedication to accuracy is more important in most cases. Feel free to express your opinion on what I have done. I don't effend, so all good. Just interested to know. Can I buy some of those modified cv joints from you or could you tell me how to modify them? Edited May 5, 2013 by TwentyLeggedHen Quote
Doc_Brown Posted May 6, 2013 Posted May 6, 2013 Can I buy some of those modified cv joints from you or could you tell me how to modify them? Yes I'm happy to make some and sell them to you. How many would you want? Quote
Junpei Posted May 6, 2013 Posted May 6, 2013 (edited) Yes I'm happy to make some and sell them to you. How many would you want? I would like to buy 4! How much do they cost? I'll work it out soon, but I won't be back till 3:00! Edited May 6, 2013 by TwentyLeggedHen Quote
Doc_Brown Posted May 6, 2013 Posted May 6, 2013 I would like to buy 4! How much do they cost? I'll work it out soon, but I won't be back till 3:00! CV joints new seem to be about $2.00US on BL for USA stores, so including my time and material I feel $20 for 4 is reasonable? Quote
Saberwing40k Posted May 6, 2013 Posted May 6, 2013 That's what I thought of doing when I eventually get some CV joints. I had to do a custom U-Joint (sort-of), here are they pictures. https://www.box.com/...6r6n3l1vb50tlsn https://www.box.com/...adpk2h7008gna9v https://www.box.com/...3wjplv9bxr66ikl Well, what do you know, I've got the parts to do just this. Quote
Junpei Posted May 6, 2013 Posted May 6, 2013 CV joints new seem to be about $2.00US on BL for USA stores, so including my time and material I feel $20 for 4 is reasonable? Do you have any modified at the time? I just spent 8 usd on cv joints, so could I send them to you to modify them? Then, of course, if you already have them modifed, then I can't do that, and shipping might be too much of a hassle considering you are in Australia. I'll have to get some money by working in the yard, I can probably have it by today or tomorrow. Quote
Nazgarot Posted May 6, 2013 Posted May 6, 2013 Basically I'm against modding Lego parts, because I think the challenge of making it work with Lego is half the hobby, but there is exceptions that I agree to. I will list some here. I don't care if others like it or not, but those few MOC's that I present to the public I try to keep as mod free as possible to enable others to rebuild them. Parts I do mod or plan to mod include: - Parts that are obviously to week in their original form (like the CV joint), - PF lights as they are way to expensive (and by making my own I don't make it easier to build, only cheaper), - PF batteries; 9 V battery as a compact power source for low power applications where it's impossible to use standard battery-boxes (the rechargeable is way to expensive), as well as modding the standard box with rechargeable batteries to save money, - unintended combinations of parts (like the custom U-joint), because they strictly speaking aren't a modification to a part, but existing parts. - Non Lego tires on Lego rims, this is mostly because of looks as the current line of Lego tires is very little lifelike... - Non Lego rubber bands, because the Lego ones are to expensive - PF-receiver modified to RF, to get better reach and less "noise"... I haven't gotten around to do this yet, but I really want to, as the current IR system is way to restricted for outdoor use. -ED- Quote
Doc_Brown Posted May 7, 2013 Posted May 7, 2013 - PF-receiver modified to RF, to get better reach and less "noise"... I haven't gotten around to do this yet, but I really want to, as the current IR system is way to restricted for outdoor use. I would be very interested in that! Do you have any modified at the time? I just spent 8 usd on cv joints, so could I send them to you to modify them? Then, of course, if you already have them modifed, then I can't do that, and shipping might be too much of a hassle considering you are in Australia. I'll have to get some money by working in the yard, I can probably have it by today or tomorrow. Send you a message Quote
Technyk32231 Posted June 26, 2013 Posted June 26, 2013 yeah i know, but i used them to fill these rubber parts in the clutch to avoid damaging them :) and added a 1mm gauge to the grey part on the central axle just to make everything more precise That makes more sense..... Quote
nicjasno Posted July 7, 2013 Posted July 7, 2013 (edited) So... i made wheel hubs that finally satisfy me. https://www.dropbox....vn66/9dlQgLUHKZ Those small turntables are awesome, They do not have any slack and are perfect for hubs. Edited July 8, 2013 by nicjasno Quote
The Ghost Racer Posted July 8, 2013 Posted July 8, 2013 (edited) I made it when i was a child. Recently i modified a battery box to use a rechargeable 8.4V battery. Look on the rocket launcher. Edited July 9, 2013 by The Ghost Racer Quote
aqaz Posted July 10, 2013 Posted July 10, 2013 (edited) Since we have chosen to work with lego, concessions must be made. It is not possible to work in any exact scale because you must round up or down to the nearest stud, similarly, it is not possible for TLG to make new convincing representations of particular machines without inventing new parts. If then you want to build something that TLG does not yet make it is possible that you will require something that does not yet exist. There are some things that TLG simply do not make that in my opinion can not be omitted from a model, consequently, I make and include them. Windscreens, mirror glass, stickers, etc. These are vital for realism and are enhancements to the lego, complementary parts even. I have cut one of these to make two of these, but I expect that this does not count as a modification. I have also cut this in half to make this footstep, because that is the only way when scale dictates that 3l is required. I agree with Nazgarot; 'I don't care if others like it or not', Sometimes I see posts on this forum that make me smile, from some who aspire to take the moral high ground, describing themselves as 'purists' ..... It (to them) is a terrible 'sin' if someone makes an 'illegal' part.... But, it is wonderful if TLG makes the same part because it is vital for looks or function. Edited July 10, 2013 by aqaz Quote
DLuders Posted July 10, 2013 Posted July 10, 2013 @ aqaz: I like the fact that you're willing to CUT your Lego parts. It shows that you have an open mind. Quote
aqaz Posted July 10, 2013 Posted July 10, 2013 DLuders; thank you.... By the way, I agree entirely with your earlier post in this thread. Quote
nicjasno Posted July 10, 2013 Posted July 10, 2013 In my opinion it's all game, as long as the end product is still recognisable as lego. I try to modify as little as possible, but sometimes it's just necessary. Quote
The Ghost Racer Posted July 10, 2013 Posted July 10, 2013 Since we have chosen to work with lego, concessions must be made. It is not possible to work in any exact scale because you must round up or down to the nearest stud, similarly, it is not possible for TLG to make new convincing representations of particular machines without inventing new parts. If then you want to build something that TLG does not yet make it is possible that you will require something that does not yet exist. There are some things that TLG simply do not make that in my opinion can not be omitted from a model, consequently, I make and include them. Windscreens, mirror glass, stickers, etc. These are vital for realism and are enhancements to the lego, complementary parts even. I have cut one of these to make two of these, but I expect that this does not count as a modification. I have also cut this in half to make this footstep, because that is the only way when scale dictates that 3l is required. I agree with Nazgarot; 'I don't care if others like it or not', Sometimes I see posts on this forum that make me smile, from some who aspire to take the moral high ground, describing themselves as 'purists' ..... It (to them) is a terrible 'sin' if someone makes an 'illegal' part.... But, it is wonderful if TLG makes the same part because it is vital for looks or function. I completely agree with you. Quote
AKM_76 Posted July 10, 2013 Author Posted July 10, 2013 It is just a matter of choice. I'm, personally, not going to modify any parts, since I consider it as a cheat. The real challenge is to design a strong build with what you have. Or, imagine, as the extreme opposite state, one could just clue everything just in any way he wants, making some crazy illegal connections of parts. Anyway he's not going to be put in jail for that. Quote
Boxerlego Posted July 11, 2013 Posted July 11, 2013 (edited) The main underlying thought on custom part is at what cost. @ aqaz: Turning one part in to two parts that don't exist. Very good! I cut a thin 1x7 liftarm in half to make two 1x3 thin liftarms for this engine design. The real challenge is to design a strong build with what you have. That is why I use J-B weld. It is the worlds strongest epoxy. Edited July 11, 2013 by Boxerlego Quote
N-4K0 Posted July 11, 2013 Posted July 11, 2013 @ aqaz: Turning one part in to two parts that don't exist. Very good! What? The part he made 2 of, does exist, although it has friction ridges and the part he cut appears to not have that. Do I misunderstand your line? Quote
Junpei Posted July 11, 2013 Posted July 11, 2013 I don't think you do, I think it was made to remove the friction ridges. Maybe for a large u-joint? Quote
Saberwing40k Posted July 11, 2013 Posted July 11, 2013 So... i made wheel hubs that finally satisfy me. https://www.dropbox....vn66/9dlQgLUHKZ Those small turntables are awesome, They do not have any slack and are perfect for hubs. So, what purpose does this serve? As you showed, the 42000 hubs already work like that. Is there something more to the turntables that makes that design better? Anyway, I personally don't mod parts. If I were to, I'd make sure that they were, A.) Repeatable easily, B.) Versatile. (I would never glue parts for that reason.) and C.) not available. Although, I have made some parts out of non Lego materials, like the string in my crane. Quote
Junpei Posted July 12, 2013 Posted July 12, 2013 I think he means that the turntables pop apart much less easily than 42000 hubs, where the 3-pin thingy pops out a lot. Quote
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