Baseplate stability

[Andy D]

I have seen several MOCs built on baseplates with a row of bricks below.

I have been wondering if his could provide additional stability and maybe prevent corners from turning up.

For those who do build by putting the baseplate on bricks...

Why do you put your baseplate on additionl bricks?

Do you find it adds additional stability?

Or is for looks?

If for stability, do you use 1 x n, 2 x n or rows of 1 x n or 2 x n bricks?

I am thinking that for stability it my be necessary to use several concentric squares of bricks from the center to the outside of the baseplate.

Thoughts...

Andy D

[Kivi]

I used this technique only once so far and here are some tips from this experience. If you put it on bricks make sure that all edges are fully supported. If only the corners are supported it may bend though this also depends on what is built on the baseplate and the proportion of the plate covered with bricks - a larger or more massive structure would already make the plate more rigid. The center should be supported as well. The rest of the plate should be supported too to prevent bending, but again it would depend on what and where is built on it, so the position and weight of the upper structure should be taken into account. Instead of concentric circles you may try to support it only in enough points, it would probably also take much less bricks to do it.

You probably won't know what would work best until you try it yourself. After all, that's the fun of mocing - build, rebuild, build, rebuild.

[CP5670]

I used a raised baseplate once in this model. It usually isn't necessarily to cover the entire floor with bricks. As Kivi said, it's good enough to make sure the center and at least two of the edges are supported. Long beams made of interconnected Technic bricks are good for keeping it rigid, enough so that the baseplate is not the main thing supporting the weight above it.

[Andy D]

Thanks for the replies. I have been doing some thinking about this as well. My thoughts are on reinforcing modular buildings and the like, though it could be applied to anything such as castle or historical buildings. I was thinking maybe use 2 baseplates. The bottom baseplate could have a foundation of 2 x n bricks from the middle to the edge with spacing to provide enough support, maybe every 6 to 8 or 10 rows of studs (from the center out to the edge) then put another baseplate on top of this, then build your structure on top of this. I believe this would help or eliminate the turned up corner on buildings such as the Grand Emporium and Cafe Corner. The only downside is it would add a bit of weigh and some expense, but it might add to the looks, like some of the Architecture series buildings are displayed.

Andy D

[Hrw-Amen]

I have thought about this myself wanting to run wire and the like underneath but the base-plates making this hard. For me I think the main problem would be getting them to sit there without sliding, as the base-plates have no connective points on the bottom. I guess a lip could do the trick, but I am not sure I'd like the visual effect that would give. Also for moving bits like train tracks I wondered how the weight of a train moving across them say at the station would work? I assume those plates would need a lot more support than a static one.

[Andy D]

... snip ... as the base-plates have no connective points on the bottom.

Whoops... I forgot about that. How did that slip my mind?

Maybe instead of base plates. Maybe make a pseudo baseplate out of large n x n plates and using them as a stabilized foundation on which to build. One could still use a baseplate as the bottom baseplate I described above, then build another baseplate (foundation?) out of 2 x n bricks and n x n plates to make the desired foundation, like a 32 x 32 baseplate.

I am beginning to wonder about this. Might still try it sometime though.

Andy D

[Bearded Castle Guy]

One thing you can take a look at is the Micropolis standard, that's a plate-brick that are used for the base and then you add your creation to the top of that.

http://twinlug.com/m...-city-standard/

So normally you have plate-brick-plate/tile or the base of a building on top of that. It normally creates stiff base to build upon.

Edited May 20, 2013 by Bearded Castle Guy

[Kivi]

The best solution is not to touch them once you have everything in place.

I had 4 road plates, 1 32x32 baseplate and 4 16x32 baseplates connected together so the sheer size and weight made it almost impossible to slide. However, the smaller it is the easier it would slide. One solution might be to build (for 32x32 baseplate, for example) a rim of 34x34 studs as a base so you'll have a 1-stud line on every edge that could keep the plate in position. But this would certainly impact the entire appearance.

In my case it looked like this:

Everything apart from roadworks in bottom left corner is built on supported baseplates.

And that's how the support looks. I learned here that unsupported edges are not really good idea. But for static display it was just fine.

[Andy D]

One thing you can take a look at is the Micropolis standard, that's a plate-brick that are used for the base and then you add your creation to the top of that.

http://twinlug.com/m...-city-standard/

So normally you have plate-brick-plate/tile or the base of a building on top of that. It normally creates stiff base to build upon.

Thanks for reminding me of this. I found an email to myself about looking at this back in mid-March, but somehow with all the things going on I forgot about it. This is one of the things I really like about this forum, someone (or several) usually have an answer, or several different ideas about how to do something.

I think I will try this soon. I believe it will be great for what I do. I do not build cities, i just build individual display models, but I think this is the answer I am looking for. I am looking forward to trying 16x16, 16x32 and 32x32.

I may modify the bottom to be a solid bottom of some sort, but I will have to try it out.

But for now I am off to build my first modular in my new studio.

Thanks again,

Andy D

Edited May 21, 2013 by Andy D

[TheLegoDr]

Well, as far as modulars go: To prevent the corner lift since there is only sidewalk weighing it down, is to use smaller tiles at the corner. For example, use 1x1 tiles around the corner instead of 1xn length. That way each one won't have to worry about the neighboring tile and won't lift as is the case with the 1xn length tiles pulling the "weight-less" edge. I've done that and it doesn't pull up at all. I have never considered doing baseplates that are elevated. It doesn't work into my scheme of things.

I've also heard of people using the normal base plates and then putting other plates on top of that to elevate the sidewalk a bit so it simulates a curb above the road. That's another suggestion. It would still add stability and create a curb for your city.

[Bearded Castle Guy]

I think I will try this soon. I believe it will be great for what I do. I do not build cities, i just build individual display models, but I think this is the answer I am looking for. I am looking forward to trying 16x16, 16x32 and 32x32.

Andy D

I linked the Micropolis to show the technique , glad it's of some help. We just had a Micropolis display this past weekend, and the support layer varied from builder to builder (and how big the build above was). Some were solid, others were minimal. You should be able to easily adapt the shown spec's to whatever needs you have. if your not worried about matching the height specifcation an easy modification is to just start with a baseplate versus a layer of plates. The only real downsides I see to making completely solid are piece count and weight.

[Andy D]

I linked the Micropolis to show the technique , glad it's of some help. We just had a Micropolis display this past weekend, and the support layer varied from builder to builder (and how big the build above was). Some were solid, others were minimal. You should be able to easily adapt the shown spec's to whatever needs you have. if your not worried about matching the height specifcation an easy modification is to just start with a baseplate versus a layer of plates. The only real downsides I see to making completely solid are piece count and weight.

Thanks again. I have been considering several techniques for doing this. From using 8x8's on the bottom and top to 8x8's on top or a combination of 2x16's and 2x12's and 2x4 and one 2x6 brick for support.

I have seen an estimate of about $2.50 US for a single unit as specified, so about $10.00 US for a 32x32. Of the two methods I have been considering, I believe using all 8x8's top and bottom would be less expensive than using some 2x16's and 2x12's. I just need to find time to order parts and experiment.

BTW: do you hav any photos of you last weekend's display?

My main LEGO interest right now is modular size and type buildings, but Micropolis does look interesting, so I am also considering some Micropolis as well.

Thanks,

Andy D

Edited May 23, 2013 by Andy D

[Faefrost]

Thanks for the replies. I have been doing some thinking about this as well. My thoughts are on reinforcing modular buildings and the like, though it could be applied to anything such as castle or historical buildings. I was thinking maybe use 2 baseplates. The bottom baseplate could have a foundation of 2 x n bricks from the middle to the edge with spacing to provide enough support, maybe every 6 to 8 or 10 rows of studs (from the center out to the edge) then put another baseplate on top of this, then build your structure on top of this. I believe this would help or eliminate the turned up corner on buildings such as the Grand Emporium and Cafe Corner. The only downside is it would add a bit of weigh and some expense, but it might add to the looks, like some of the Architecture series buildings are displayed.

Andy D

I discovered the secret to preventing those turned up corners on the corner Modulars. Replace the longer tiles on the outer edges with 1x2's. the curling comes from the material differences between the ABS tiles and the Styrene base plate. The long tiles pull or create tension on the baseplate because of the materials difference, in much the same way that pavement or rail lines will buckle and deform in high heat. Switching to the shorter tiles effectively adds some expansion joints.

Edited May 22, 2013 by Faefrost