Hanging Lego models

[RednWhite]

Hi

i am hoping to display the most recent X wing (not the recent UCS one) and Tie fighter models in our new study once we have moved. I was thinking of hanging them from the ceiling in a sort of recreation of the first film's final battle scene. Can anyone recommend the best way of hanging lego models i.e. so that the string/wire is not visible but the model does not suffer any damage over time. I was thinking fishing wire may be okay to use but not sure if it would damage the bricks it was tied around

[Itaria No Shintaku]

Hi

i am hoping to display the most recent X wing (not the recent UCS one) and Tie fighter models in our new study once we have moved. I was thinking of hanging them from the ceiling in a sort of recreation of the first film's final battle scene. Can anyone recommend the best way of hanging lego models i.e. so that the string/wire is not visible but the model does not suffer any damage over time. I was thinking fishing wire may be okay to use but not sure if it would damage the bricks it was tied around

I don't mean to be rude, but what you ask is quite impossible.

I mean, either you place some support under the bricks, so this makes your "hanging" more visible, or you accept that the weight of the models will be substained only by some bricks, which will be more likely scratched by the wire... It's gravity, thank it! :D

[Modulex Guy]

Go to your local sport and outdoor store, go to the fishing section and buy some high pound test fishing line. Get line that would be suitable for oh, a 30 pound fish lets say. That's plenty strong for any model. Either build in a couple tie off points in the model or tie it from the bottom, figure out the best points to pose and balance the model and hang away. Fishing line with the right weight rating is plenty strong to hang up a Lego model.

I use this:

For hanging and Fishing.

[Hrw-Amen]

I've just hung a couple of models using ordinary fishing line slung underneath them, nothing as big as what you are suggesting though I guess that the bigger the model the stronger the line you would need. It should not be too hard to work out what line you need if you know the mass of your model and under what circumstances it is to be hung.

[Brickdoctor]

I've hung a couple MOCs before; the fishing line can scratch or cut through the pieces a little bit, but it shouldn't do anything major. Look for gaps in the exterior leading to Technic pieces that are inside the model, since they're usually already part of the supporting structure, won't be seen anyways if they get scratched, and have holes that you can thread the line through. Then you can add lines in other spots where necessary to balance the model.

[AmperZand]

I have only ever hung small MOCs. I either use black or clear non-stretch nylon beading string. I use two loops, one under each wing and attach them to one fixing point. By using different loop lengths, I can adjust the roll. Adjusting the up/down angle is simply a matter of angling the MOC.

If you're hanging minifigs, you have to make sure that the rope (string) is the right length. Too long and the head will come right off, making a mess all over the place. Too short and the minifig will die slowly from strangulation which is "cruel and unusual". Note that only fleshy minifigs should be hanged. Yellow minifigs deserve to live forever.

Edited June 3, 2013 by AmperZand

[Darth Dino]

Hi

i suggest to change 1-3 pieces that covering the outsidenof the model to some that have a hinge element on the outside. There you can fix the fishing line. You do not have to take care about scratches in the element, its only there to provide porper hanging. If you or someone else want to play with, just change the part(s) again to the originals.

Benefit: You will not see that parts are vhanged because they are localised on the top side of the model that can not be seen from the bottom.

Dino

[Slobey]

I've used regular fishing wire to hang the Sopwith Camel from the roof of my sons room. It's not a light model and has been hanging there fine for about 6 months now with no damage or scratches to bricks

camel by slobey79, on Flickr

[tomdobs55]

I've used regular fishing wire to hang the Sopwith Camel from the roof of my sons room. It's not a light model and has been hanging there fine for about 6 months now with no damage or scratches to bricks *snip*

And no damage from the baby?

Edited June 4, 2013 by tomdobs55

[Slobey]

And no damage from the baby?

Lol no It's just out of his reach........

[RednWhite]

Thanks for all of the responses - very helpful. When i have managed to get the two models hung i will try and post a picture

[ShaydDeGrai]

Fishing line alone should be fine for small to average size stuff. For big models, though, getting the load points right can be problematic, as they tend to sag, flex or decouple with long term, unexpected tension and compression along their bodies.

I've used dental floss _inside_ models to transfer loads laterally and reduce sag on heavier elements. The floss, particularly the ribbon type such as Glide is thin enough to fit between bricks even when there isn't a clean tie-off point or even wrapped spirally around internal members to balance tension and compression when the load direction is effectively reversed. It allows me to distribute the load more evenly across the bottom (normal load) bricks and to create tiny loops of floss as hanger points on the top surface of the model. Once the internal webbing is done, I simply run fishing line from the ceiling to the hanger points.

The technique has worked, so far, on the UCS Falcon, the Super Star Destroyer and the (#10019) Blockade Runner from 2001 (whose stickers are peeling off, but hasn't warped despite hanging from four points for over a decade).

The down side, of course is that you really need to build the floss right into the model as you're putting it together (or as I did with the Blockade Runner, rebuild it once you realize it doesn't hang well with just a couple loops of fishing line at either end).

Good luck.

[Hey Joe]

Fishing line alone should be fine for small to average size stuff. For big models, though, getting the load points right can be problematic, as they tend to sag, flex or decouple with long term, unexpected tension and compression along their bodies.

I've used dental floss _inside_ models to transfer loads laterally and reduce sag on heavier elements.

Why not just use fishing line inside as well? Why use floss?

Thanks, Joe

[ShaydDeGrai]

Why not just use fishing line inside as well? Why use floss?

Thanks, Joe

I found the nylon too tough on the ABS of the Lego parts. In some of the applications, I'd just tie a knot on the end of the floss (for added thickness, tuck it in the underside of a brick and click the brick into place. IN others, I'd run the line in the "gap" between two adjacent bricks, side to side or top to bottom. The floss was thin enough and deformed enough such that the pieces fit together while also anchoring the cord. Trying to do the same thing with fishing line scratched up and cut into the brick slightly. The damage wasn't dramatic, and it was confined to internal parts, but it annoyed me none the less so I switched to dental floss.

When used in a less constrained application (such as a sling under a model or looped through the hole of a technic part) fishing line should be fine, it's just when it's rubbing against sharp corners in tight spots that I've had issues.

[Hey Joe]

I found the nylon too tough on the ABS of the Lego parts. In some of the applications, I'd just tie a knot on the end of the floss (for added thickness, tuck it in the underside of a brick and click the brick into place. IN others, I'd run the line in the "gap" between two adjacent bricks, side to side or top to bottom. The floss was thin enough and deformed enough such that the pieces fit together while also anchoring the cord. Trying to do the same thing with fishing line scratched up and cut into the brick slightly. The damage wasn't dramatic, and it was confined to internal parts, but it annoyed me none the less so I switched to dental floss.

When used in a less constrained application (such as a sling under a model or looped through the hole of a technic part) fishing line should be fine, it's just when it's rubbing against sharp corners in tight spots that I've had issues.

Hey! Thanks!

That's kinda what I thought after reading your post, but wasn't quite sure. Appreciate your taking the time to clarify.

I've got a train layout in the works and am planning to hang some Alien Conquest stuff (above it) and Atlantis stuff (below it).

Joe

[Rook]

Hi

i am hoping to display the most recent X wing (not the recent UCS one) and Tie fighter models in our new study once we have moved. I was thinking of hanging them from the ceiling in a sort of recreation of the first film's final battle scene. Can anyone recommend the best way of hanging lego models i.e. so that the string/wire is not visible but the model does not suffer any damage over time. I was thinking fishing wire may be okay to use but not sure if it would damage the bricks it was tied around

I don't mean to be rude, but what you ask is quite impossible.

I mean, either you place some support under the bricks, so this makes your "hanging" more visible, or you accept that the weight of the models will be sustained only by some bricks, which will be more likely scratched by the wire... It's gravity, thank it! :D

Not to be rude but I've hung tons of stuff from the ceiling in my old Lego room. All the way up to a 10195 Republic Dropship with AT-OT Walker.

Here’s what you need:

1. Planter hooks (I used the one with pop out brace. You can use the regular screw types but then you have to find a support beam.)

2. Drill

3. Invisible Tread

Now the trick of Invisible thread is two things, lighting and background. Lighting behind the thread will make it visible and dark backgrounds will make it visible. So best of luck learning that part. I also found with heavier models that it you can double up the thread count as you need but of course the more threads the stronger the likelihood of being able to see them. Never the less it’s pretty cool even when you can see the threads.

You’ll notice a couple smaller ships hanging down into this image.

Rook's Rook [Revisited] by RΟΟK, on Flickr

Edited June 6, 2013 by Rook