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THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS! ×
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

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Posted

Hello Everyone! I'm back with a nice little MOC that i built a couple days ago. I actually first built it last year but never had the time for pictures, so I rebuilt it from my memory. :classic: It has rear wheel drive via one buggy motor and 20t/diff gear combo. It has all wheel independent suspension-since I wanted the front and rear width to be the same, the rear isnt double wishbone. It's extremely light and has servo steering. All powered by one of my 10 volt batteries. I had to use some interesting bracing techniques in order to connect and strengthen the whole car with as little pieces as possible, but I couldnt find a simple enough way to brace the front suspension to the chassis so in a hard crash the front axle may come off. Pics:

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^it gets quite dirty after prolonged outdoor use :laugh:

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the front bull bar (same one from the 8048 buggy set) bends inward during a front end hit, so it definitely helps protect the car if it loses signal from IR receiver:

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In order for weight saving I used flex axles, which give a nice tight grip around the battery:

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Money shot :moar:dscn1606.jpg

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suspension showcase :tongue:

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^when resting the rear suspension has neutral camber, when it is raised it has slight positive camber, but when leaning into a turn and it compresses, it has negative camber, which can actually help handling a bit:

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overall it has good ground clearance for its size, which allows for good performance on bumpy asphalt and light offroading, but for offoading it relies on wheel speed rather than low speed torque

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driving outdoors and through fresh rainwater puddles eventually collects dirt and water, which can get into places where you don't want it...

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^but luckily dirt will fall of after a good shake once it has dried and water, as long as it is fresh rain/streamwater won't ruin motors/connectors, only pool/saltwater/grimy water will mess up motors, but I made sure the battery stayed dry :wink: And here's some burnout/drift shots:

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my new desktop background:

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ENJOY!

Posted

How did you manage burnouts with legos? very impressive. My question still stands, when can I buy one of these batteries from you?

tim

burnouts were possible because the ground in the photo was wet, but even inside, donuts and drifting is possible but not burnouts because of lack of torque, regarding batteries they are not for sale but in the future I may make a topic on how they were made, and I will shoot a video of this car and hopefully will have it posted this week.
Posted (edited)

The video is up! :sweet:

HD(720p) helps for the bulk of the video but forgot to zoom in for the close-ups, my bad :blush:

Edited by z3_2drive
Posted (edited)

I like it, but I dont want to add extra weight at this point :L

Performance is really fantastic, but...

Adding third party overvolted battery is not a big science. I can say "wow" if you will do real-look body on that chassis.

i used pure lego LiPo batteries with standard 7,2 v in my "bodied" models - and the perform drift well.

So, Why dont you build a finished model with this chassis? You can use flex axles to make forms and it will be still light enough to burnout.

Edited by rm8
Posted

I like it, but I dont want to add extra weight at this point :L

It's really not heavy, if you just use this to replace the whole front end. Most of the weight is just the servomotor. The front part is only made of a few beams, but the very, very small extra weight is worth it to keep the axle from falling off.
Posted (edited)

Performance is really fantastic, but...

Adding third party overvolted battery is not a big science. I can say "wow" if you will do real-look body on that chassis.

i used pure lego LiPo batteries with standard 7,2 v in my "bodied" models - and the perform drift well.

So, Why dont you build a finished model with this chassis? You can use flex axles to make forms and it will be still light enough to burnout.

I honestly am thinking whether or not my battery's power counteracts its weight, because the lipo is lighter even though it has less power, and less power means motor doesnt overheat,which mine does after a while, so I think the weight and power make the use of either battery about even, I notice this in any of my crawlers that had buggy motors, they never seemed to be better than if I used normal lego lipo, but I dont want to buy it because, you know, $50 for battery plus extra $ for charger...not worth it. And yes I might make a body as I havent taken the car apart yet :classic: Sorry for my long argument :blush: Any ideas for a body? This has a very short wheelbase... Edited by z3_2drive
Posted (edited)

Made a simple buggy-style body today, and now that I see piterx working on his newest MOC I'm going to take this one apart and start building again too :laugh:

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I used technyk's front brace idea (thanks for sharing it!) and added lights that turn on when you are on the throttle.

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Edited by z3_2drive
  • 3 months later...
Posted

Sorry to bump this topic, but I see you did use my idea. Was it too heavy? I didn't think it was too heavy, but I didn't really have anything to compare it to.

That's fine, and no! It added weight but the increased strength and slight change in the center of gravity was definitely worth it! Thanks!

Beautifully Simple and Simply beautiful!

Thank you :classic:

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