Calabar Posted August 18, 2013 Posted August 18, 2013 I tried the last trick (#4c) and it works fine. I should try again #4a and #4b paying more attention. Quote
Nachapon Lego Posted August 19, 2013 Author Posted August 19, 2013 (edited) Good to hear that #4c works fine. I didn't check the text file, but guess it should be about: Target move -0.05 studs in five steps. -(.105)+(.04)+(.04)+(.04)-(.105)+(.04)=-0.05(1/20 studs) Edited August 20, 2013 by bbqqq Quote
Calabar Posted August 19, 2013 Posted August 19, 2013 =-0.05(1/20 studs) So it is less precise than #4a and #4b, that moves 1/80 studs. Am I right? These informations (such as "Target move -0.05 studs in five steps") would be very useful if added in the post of the trick. Quote
Nachapon Lego Posted August 20, 2013 Author Posted August 20, 2013 (edited) @'Calabar' They are almost same precise. #4a and #4b moves 1/80 x 4 times = 0.05(1/20 studs). Trick #10 Accurate move brick to any decimals distance. Angle I & II = arcsin ( move_distance / 2 ) Angle III = arcsin ( move_distance ) Edited August 20, 2013 by Calabar Quote
Calabar Posted August 20, 2013 Posted August 20, 2013 mmm... then I've not undestood the way you measure the movement. I thought that "Target move -0.05 studs in five steps" means that you need 5 steps to obtain a precise movement of 1/20 stud. As for other tricks you declared a 1/80 stud momentent, I thought this one was less precise. Could you explain again, please? PS: a private message for you. EDIT: I tried again tricks #4a and #4b. in 4a, I found why it didn't worked for me: building the structure I removed the plate with clip and added another in a successive step. If I don't remove the piece, the trick works. Maybe in the video you make it invisible, but it is impossible to understand that looking at it. in 4b, I have no difficulties this time. Probably I placed the clips at the wrong distance last time. PS: the trick #10 is very similar to the technique I use for fine tuning the position of bricks! Quote
Nachapon Lego Posted August 21, 2013 Author Posted August 21, 2013 (edited) @Calabar Trick #10 is much better than #4abc because the formula can move to any distance(<0.1, LDD can move 0.1) you want. Not been restrict by distance that brick bug provide (only 1/80, 0.04 0.105..) The goal of #10 is to hinge 1x1 plate three times form black position to blue. Angle I & II = arcsin ( move_distance / 2 ) Angle III = arcsin ( move_distance ) LDD move trick by Nachapon S., on Flickr Edited August 21, 2013 by bbqqq Quote
Nachapon Lego Posted August 28, 2013 Author Posted August 28, 2013 (edited) Trick #11 Apply 1100+ decals on 500+ places of 300+ parts Edit: This tricks can edit LXFML on the fly. Can also quick precise move/change color/disassemble.. bricks. This video come with original sound track. Real piano, real baby crying. :-P LDD texture code ver1128 by Nachapon S., on Flickr Edited August 28, 2013 by bbqqq Quote
Stephan Posted August 28, 2013 Posted August 28, 2013 (edited) Are these all the decals in LDD? Because decal #600778 is not in the image (the wood plank used in 10228 Haunted Mansion). EDIT: can no tremove my post... Edited August 28, 2013 by Stephan Quote
Superkalle Posted August 28, 2013 Posted August 28, 2013 This video come with original sound track. Real piano, real baby crying. :-P Quote
Nachapon Lego Posted August 28, 2013 Author Posted August 28, 2013 (edited) Are these all the decals in LDD? Because decal #600778 is not in the image (the wood plank used in 10228 Haunted Mansion). EDIT: can no tremove my post... It should be all decals. #600778 at 9th from right, 3rd from bottom. Thanks to your LDD_manager tool for save me a lot of time by quick generate 500 mapping surfaces LXF template file.:-) Edited August 28, 2013 by bbqqq Quote
Nachapon Lego Posted September 1, 2013 Author Posted September 1, 2013 (edited) Thanks Zblj. Maybe can simulate this bug in the new version by edit the XLFML. Done! Now can simulate duplo, Place decals to almost any surface/size/bricks or make impossible bricks. LDD LXFML MOD by Nachapon S., on Flickr LDD duplo mod test by Nachapon S., on Flickr Lego LDD decal made of 1x1 round tile by Nachapon S., on Flickr Lego LDD decal made of four 2x2 round tiles b by Nachapon S., on Flickr Edited September 3, 2013 by bbqqq Quote
Nachapon Lego Posted September 6, 2013 Author Posted September 6, 2013 (edited) #7 Scale change trick can simulate custom decors using tons of tiles (as pixels) then scale them down, but without auto-gen software the process takes long time. Lego LDD minecraft cube made of 1x1 tiles by Nachapon S., on Flickr Edited September 6, 2013 by bbqqq Quote
sagalius1 Posted November 6, 2013 Posted November 6, 2013 (edited) LDD TRICK #8 Sub-parts quick disassemble / change length: Using flex tool bug, no need to edit LXFML text file. Edit: 1st step: If necessary, build some rotation helper connected to sub-part(s) which will be "rotate" apart together. 2nd step: Use flex tool to click once on a sub-part which you will let it stay still while "rotate" apart. 3rd step: Then use hinge tool to rotate apart another sub-part(s). Before rotate with hinge tool, you may need to click more than once to until the appropiate green arrows of hinge tool show up. For example: It is super easy to take apart minifig's hand. Just click with flex tool on the hand, then rotate(hinge) the arm. thx for that mini clip. its very usefull :) Edited November 6, 2013 by Pandora Please don't quote videos or pictures, thank you Quote
Shine Posted February 15, 2014 Posted February 15, 2014 Could this thread please be added to the Tips and Tricks portion of the Section Index? Quote
Vee Posted February 26, 2014 Posted February 26, 2014 I am sorry but many videos here seem more like made for those that already know the trick than for those trying to learn the trick. For instance, trick #4, I don't understand what is being done, how it is being done. There is no explanation, no sound, no caption about the trick and the moves are too fast. I know that you can select more than one brick and move just one so that the other will also move, I use this all the time, but I can't figure out what the trick is. Quote
kamos Posted February 26, 2014 Posted February 26, 2014 I am sorry but many videos here seem more like made for those that already know the trick than for those trying to learn the trick. For instance, trick #4, I don't understand what is being done, how it is being done. There is no explanation, no sound, no caption about the trick and the moves are too fast. I know that you can select more than one brick and move just one so that the other will also move, I use this all the time, but I can't figure out what the trick is. Hi, I'll try to explain it to you but first of all, have look at the picture. Click on picture for full size (2856 x 1256) In the picture you can see three minifigs. Take a look at the heads. Left: normal minifigure without cape Middle: how should minifigure with cape looks like Right: how LDD allow to connect head on minifigure body if there is cape on it As you can see (right minifig), that is the only way to add head to minigure body because the cape won't allow to slide it lower So, if we want to have it like the middle minifig has, we can do two things: 1. LXFML edit (harder - modify file) 2. bbqqq's trick #4 (easier - done in LDD) For this scenario, I used trick #4c So, how it works? Do you see these 1x2 plates with sticks (2540) with 1x1 plates w/ holder (6019) connected on them? Look at the difference between them. Both sides of 2540 plate stick have about 5 snapping/connecting points. The left lighter green have a tiny space between the 6019 and the holder? (that bit holding the stick) whereas the right darker green doesn't have it. You can move the 6019 to create that tiny space on end of the stick or next to that "stick holder" (that thing holding the stick on plate) You might be asking "that's okay buddy but what are you trying to say?" Have look at the next picture. Click on picture for full size (3218 x 974) This is how it's done: Step 1, select minifig head and 6019 plate. Step 2, while both of them are selected, hold 6019 plate and move it down (little bit lower to eliminate that tiny space on 2540). Step 3, move the 6019 plate little bit higher to create that tiny space between 6019 and 2540. And repeat until minifig's head is how it suppose to be And that is the trick. Being able to move bricks about that tiny little bit without needing to use external editors, just by two bricks. (Also note: my english isn't the best so if it look's like gibberish, I'm sorry) Quote
Vee Posted February 26, 2014 Posted February 26, 2014 Uhmm, now I understood! Thank you for the thorough explanation. I am used to using a sword (4M) or the shaft (3M) and a 1x1 brick with handle to do these kind of moves but indeed I tried to use my trick to close that gap between the head and the torso, with the cape on, and I was not able. I could almost do it with the "sword and brick with a handle" trick. Then I used your trick and with just one step, I was able to close the gap still left by my own trick. Thank you! Depending on the axis that you want to move the item, I use the 1x1 brick with the vertical holder too. By the way, that is not the brick with the handle but the brick with the horizontal holder. Quote
Courleciel Posted April 9, 2014 Posted April 9, 2014 Hi, I've just used your trick n°8 in order to disassemble minifigure parts. It works very well, but I'm wondering if there is a way to delete one or several sub-parts. For instance, keep just one leg and delete the other with the hips sub-part. I've tried to edit the .lxfml file by deleting the concerned lines. But LDD consistently removes the whole part. Is there a solution ? Quote
Nachapon Lego Posted April 9, 2014 Author Posted April 9, 2014 Hi, I've just used your trick n°8 in order to disassemble minifigure parts. It works very well, but I'm wondering if there is a way to delete one or several sub-parts. For instance, keep just one leg and delete the other with the hips sub-part. I've tried to edit the .lxfml file by deleting the concerned lines. But LDD consistently removes the whole part. Is there a solution ? No, but you can edit the .lxfml to move the unwant sub-part high above the model or hide it somewhere inside the model. Quote
bak318 Posted April 9, 2014 Posted April 9, 2014 I have a question about flexing. I know how to flex but i want it in a very narrow bow. In fact to roll it up. My goal is to make a hose on the reel of my sewercleaning truck. Now it's empty. Is there a way to flex it that much? I tried the flextrick but i think i want it too small. Quote
Courleciel Posted April 9, 2014 Posted April 9, 2014 No, but you can edit the .lxfml to move the unwant sub-part high above the model or hide it somewhere inside the model. That's a good compromise. Thank you ! Quote
Jason C. Hand Posted April 12, 2014 Posted April 12, 2014 Hi, I'll try to explain it to you but first of all, have look at the picture. Click on picture for full size (2856 x 1256) In the picture you can see three minifigs. Take a look at the heads. Left: normal minifigure without cape Middle: how should minifigure with cape looks like Right: how LDD allow to connect head on minifigure body if there is cape on it As you can see (right minifig), that is the only way to add head to minigure body because the cape won't allow to slide it lower So, if we want to have it like the middle minifig has, we can do two things: 1. LXFML edit (harder - modify file) 2. bbqqq's trick #4 (easier - done in LDD) For this scenario, I used trick #4c So, how it works? Do you see these 1x2 plates with sticks (2540) with 1x1 plates w/ holder (6019) connected on them? Look at the difference between them. Both sides of 2540 plate stick have about 5 snapping/connecting points. The left lighter green have a tiny space between the 6019 and the holder? (that bit holding the stick) whereas the right darker green doesn't have it. You can move the 6019 to create that tiny space on end of the stick or next to that "stick holder" (that thing holding the stick on plate) You might be asking "that's okay buddy but what are you trying to say?" Have look at the next picture. Click on picture for full size (3218 x 974) This is how it's done: Step 1, select minifig head and 6019 plate. Step 2, while both of them are selected, hold 6019 plate and move it down (little bit lower to eliminate that tiny space on 2540). Step 3, move the 6019 plate little bit higher to create that tiny space between 6019 and 2540. And repeat until minifig's head is how it suppose to be And that is the trick. Being able to move bricks about that tiny little bit without needing to use external editors, just by two bricks. (Also note: my english isn't the best so if it look's like gibberish, I'm sorry) Tried it just now and it works! Thanks again, kamos! Quote
Nachapon Lego Posted April 30, 2014 Author Posted April 30, 2014 (edited) Quite a long time that I didn't add new trick. This #12 basically is a continuous angle clone technique, combine with many other useful tricks. The input angles are -9.75 and -19.5 degree. A walk in the park... by N-11 Ordo, on Flickr A walk in the park... by N-11 Ordo, on Flickr Edited April 30, 2014 by bbqqq Quote
Nachapon Lego Posted October 21, 2014 Author Posted October 21, 2014 (edited) Using trick #5 can make AT-AT realtime walk smoothly. Combine ZBLJ's Lego LDD gears trick will make AT-AT head to swing. Base on LDD LXF 10178 - Motorized Walking AT-AT - by penguinz Edited October 21, 2014 by bbqqq Quote
Alcom1 Posted October 23, 2014 Posted October 23, 2014 (edited) Hey mister, how'd you get that fancy perspective? When I use LDD at full screen stuff looks like this ↓, which is nausiating, so I have to make the view like 500-700px wide to take advantage of the horizontally based field of view. I'd love to know. Edited October 23, 2014 by Alcom1 Quote
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