Posted July 25, 201311 yr Hi, I need to make a hub that attach the drive axle to the wishbones but I'm finding it hard as the spacing is not great to work with. If I make the wishbone spacing 5L instead of 4L then there will be practically no pivoting in them which means no suspension, if there 3L apart then UV joint gets squashed as gap between the wishbones does go slightly smaller than 3L when they pivot. Here is the LXF can it be done, I hope so, Regards
July 25, 201311 yr Author Yup that did the trick thanks a million ++ Edited July 25, 201311 yr by SNIPE
July 25, 201311 yr Ugh... that can be done much better and more space efficient. I'll make you one tomorrow.
July 25, 201311 yr Ugh... that can be done much better and more space efficient. I'll make you one tomorrow. I am sure it can, but I am no car builder.... I will be interested to see what you come up with. Edited July 25, 201311 yr by Alasdair Ryan
July 25, 201311 yr Author I just put an axle joiner with center hole between two of these: For suspension I'm using one or two of these per wheel: (x928cx1) The bar in-between the two UV joints is so if theirs too much torque of it something jams it is just going to slide and not break the UV joint but has enough friction to work as an axle when there isn't lots of torque. i'd like to see how this thing handles when built, there's only one small problem, the wishbones might not be able let the hub pivot and turn to steer when the suspension is fully compressed so the wheels will jump if it goes over large bumps or dips. Edited July 25, 201311 yr by SNIPE
July 25, 201311 yr Without knowing the concept of your car, i made this: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/k720g9rm2ma91t8/1FmHK-WZb4 Having it 4 stud high creates more problems than it solves. Knowing what kind of vehicle you're going to make and which wheels you intend to use would also help. This suspension has all the correct angles for the steering of course, the universal joint is on the axis connecting the upper and lower balljoint.
July 25, 201311 yr Author Hi This is for an F1 car and also for a modified version of the lego 8448 I'm working on the f1 car at the minute. The only possible problem (mentioned above might be: - The hole closest to the ball socket on the wishbone might stop the hub from steering when the suspension is compressed, ill see how each idea goes tomorrow, I have another idea like yours I got from somebody ages ago but that cant be built at all until I get the newer style wishbones. Thanks for the help Edited July 26, 201311 yr by SNIPE
July 26, 201311 yr In an f1 car the suspension compresses extremly little anyway. In any case you want the upper ball to be outside of the rim and the lower as much inside as possible. And of course you want to use unequal length wishbones. Also... in modern f1 cars, the lower wishbones are in the same plane as the driveshaft ;) Edited July 26, 201311 yr by nicjasno
July 26, 201311 yr non of my sets had a steering hub till now , i have 42010 42011 42007 42006 and 4956 with some smaller ones 42007 had steering but without a hub - it was the moto-cross bike , and 4956 is "creator house" [2007] do you have any idea how to make a vehicle [car] with steering via parts from these sets ? thanks
July 26, 201311 yr Author Sure, a lot of big lego sets such as cranes have steering, check out the instructions for technic crane sets these just use a H connector usually, and some beams, the instructions are easy to get online. Not all of them have a driven axle or suspension though s this what you want too? Edited July 26, 201311 yr by SNIPE
July 28, 201311 yr Hi, I need to make a hub that attach the drive axle to the wishbones but I'm finding it hard as the spacing is not great to work with. If I make the wishbone spacing 5L instead of 4L then there will be practically no pivoting in them which means no suspension, if there 3L apart then UV joint gets squashed as gap between the wishbones does go slightly smaller than 3L when they pivot. Here is the LXF can it be done, I hope so, Regards I have made a suspension with 3l spacing, and it worked just fine. Besides, its a 4 bar linkage, so spacing shouldnt change if. wishbones are parallel
July 29, 201311 yr Unless the suspension has really extreme articulation, in which case the binding of the universal joints will be more of a problem than the lack of space.
July 30, 201311 yr Unless the suspension has really extreme articulation, in which case the binding of the universal joints will be more of a problem than the lack of space. I have built a car with u joints like this, and the problem was that the wheel kept falling out of the u joint. (The truck was pretty heavy and big...)
July 30, 201311 yr I have built a car with u joints like this, and the problem was that the wheel kept falling out of the u joint. (The truck was pretty heavy and big...) That's why you use the 5.5 axle with stop. The wheel can still back off the axle, but the axle cannot back out of the u joint. v/r Andy
August 4, 201311 yr Author Here is a video of what I have so far, still waiting to see the new wishbones in bricklink cheaper... I tested it with a motor but the whole thing will all be hand operated however ill put instructions to add a motor when its all finished. I want plenty of suspension travel and steering angle to make it more maneuverable and it looks like I (with lots of help) have cracked it in this model and for future models. This model is a stud-less version of the 8448, the chassis and most of the bodywork has everything in the same place as the studded version but with stud-less beams. It will have: • V12 engine that can be put in the front or rear of the car. • Pneumatic butterfly doors • Pneumatic fold up/down roof • 4WD and 4 wheel steering, • Torsion spring suspension • 6 speed gearbox with built in 4 / front / rear wheel drive selector operated by the gear lever • Selector to stop the rear wheels from steering the car. • Maybe other things if I can fit them all into the model, pop up headlights, handbrake etc The model you see is very rough and still has yellow parts just to secure some of it and will later be removed/replaced. Here is a video showing the steering and differential of the rear wheels, the same assembly is also used for the front. View Video Next up is to make the steering rack closer to the wheels, add the center differential and gear box, put in the rear wheel steer-lock then add the roof and doors. Here is an LDD file of the rear section, the suspention and steering max angles can be viewed in the LDD model. Edited August 5, 201311 yr by SNIPE
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