[MOC] Swingloader Mark Two

[imajor]

Re modified 24T gear:

I have found there is no need to do this if you subsitute double bevel gears :- 16T / 24T / 16T there is plenty of clearance between lower 16T gear and mini actuator ram, when steering is on full lock and drive train runs smoother.

Could you please be more specific? I don't understand this.

I think the building process is epic, however (as others said before me) the functions are not perfect unfortunately. In my case for example, raising/lowering the bucked had so much friction, that it was really struggling even with an emply bucket (I think someone mentioned it too). It is not the arm which is too heavy to lift, it also struggles if I detach the linear actuators from the arm. In my case I think the friction is introduced below the arm turntable somewhere. When building of course I was trying to make everything smooth, but after I inserted the modul which prepares for the arm turntable, the train become very tight. Probably my fault, if I will have time, I will redo that section again.

[Blakbird]

Re modified 24T gear:

I have found there is no need to do this if you subsitute double bevel gears :- 16T / 24T / 16T there is plenty of clearance between lower 16T gear and mini actuator ram, when steering is on full lock and drive train runs smoother.

??? There are no 16 or 24 tooth double bevel gears. Did you mean 12 tooth and 20 tooth, or are you referring to spur gears? Whatever gear set you use, the one in the middle has to be a clutch gear which is free to spin on the axle so an independent function can run through.

[DrJB]

I must note that, if you decide to cut a differential case and use the 24t clutch gear ... it will not fit in the base design. The lift-arm needs to be removed and a couple of blue pins will be exposed.

Edited January 19, 2014 by DrJB

[D3K]

I must note that, if you decide to cut a differential case and use the 24t clutch gear ... it will not fi in the base design. The lift-arm needs to be removed and a couple of blue pins will be exposed.

True that In the same picture that shows the 24 z modified gear, you will see how the beam has been removed

[DrJB]

Just finished building this last night ... Looks like it earned a permanent spot on my display shelf, in between the excavator 8043 and the unimog. I had to borrow wheels from the unimog though, so the latter looks crippled, but it was well worth it. I'll never say it often enough, this is a phenomenal build. The density/compactness of the build is beyond any lego official set I've seen. Hence my comment in another thread that Lego Sets tend to be 'hollow'. This here is very 'dense', and the complexity/functionality is one of the best I've seen. Congratulations again, and thank you for sharing. I am curious though, how long did that project take you to finalize?

Edited January 9, 2014 by DrJB

[D3K]

I'm really glad you had fun building it!

Thank you very much for all the compliments!

It didn't actually take so vey long, as I had a pretty good idea of how I wanted to make the mechanical stuff in my head. Some trial and error, builds and rebuilds, and all the mechanical stuff was done! Also worth to note, is I built a similar model last year (hence the "Mk II").

But overall I think I used between two and three weeks, building on average maybe 1-1,5 hours a day maybe..

So suffice to say, making the instructions took a lot longer, at roughly three weeks. Interesting to learn MLCad though, but very time consuming! I really would wish LDD could be made slightly more advanced to incorporate building instruction making

[ritztoys]

Gathering parts for this now, looking forward to building and using with my other construction equipment. This will go nicely with Designer Hans' models that I have. I tried using PF on 8265-1, but I didn't like the steering on that model and removed everything.

Is there anything I should be made aware of causing maybe tear-downs to fix troubles. I've looked at the BI, ( these are very high quality and very clear ), the notes contained in them are great.

I'm working on other MOCs now, hope to start after Christmas on this.

[DrJB]

Gathering parts for this now, looking forward to building and using with my other construction equipment. This will go nicely with Designer Hans' models that I have. I tried using PF on 8265-1, but I didn't like the steering on that model and removed everything.

Is there anything I should be made aware of causing maybe tear-downs to fix troubles. I've looked at the BI, ( these are very high quality and very clear ), the notes contained in them are great.

I'm working on other MOCs now, hope to start after Christmas on this.

The one thing you need to be careful with is the orientation of the front/rear differentials. I initially built it wrong and had to start over.

[ritztoys]

The one thing you need to be careful with is the orientation of the front/rear differentials. I initially built it wrong and had to start over.

Thanks for your reply. Sometimes I get in a hurry, ( that's a bad word in my type of building, I like to take my time to enjoy ) when I later realize I messed up . Tear-downs aren't awful by nature, but then it really makes you to pay attention and I usually enjoy it better because of the details in construction for all these features. :thumbup:

[D3K]

I don't remember if I put in a note explaining which differential goes which way, so there might be a mistake in the instructions.. If things turn out wrong, I imagine it is easier to fix the rear one, as there is a lot of bracing in the front, while in the back the entire axle assy can just be turned around front to back:-)

Hope you like it!;-)

Edited December 18, 2013 by D3K

[lcaa]

Hi!

I can't find the link for the video anymore??

Thanks!

[D3K]

Hi!

Sorry, I never made a video of this model, and it is long since taken apart..

Maybe someone who has built the model would make a short video of it?

I, at least, can unfortunately not help you at this time..:-(

[lcaa]

Hi, thanks for your answer!

You unmounted it....why?? You needed parts for other projects?

That is to bad!

I was sure, that there was a vid out there...

[Blakbird]

I have the model assembled but I no longer own a video camera.

[Azzepa]

Woah, I'm glad this topic got dug up a bit. Would never have found it. Fantastic Model!

A Quick visit to rebrickable shows that I have ~97% of the parts in sets, and the missing parts I know I have apart from the Mini Turntables (Will either buy some or mod it). Definitely going to have a stab at building this MOC once I finish with my 42009 and disassemble my 9398/8043 for the motors I'll also be attempting the AA BB mod, as I have no AAA one or rechargeable.

Looking forward to playing with this! Great job!

[lcaa]

Hi guys!

I have 2 things which I would like to understand before I start the build:

I still dont understand the recommendation on page 9 ( page numeber of the pdf) of the instructions regarding the 24th spur gear and cutting it off from an old diff- which diff is it excatly- may you have a partnumber- why is it better to use that?

Page 51 (pdf!): turn the diff the other way around- why is that? Because it is hitting some other part otherwise or it better by any other reason?

Many thanks!

EDIT: I have found the answer to my 2nd question in post 70.

Edited January 19, 2014 by lcaa

[zux]

I still dont understand the recommendation on page 9 ( page numeber of the pdf) of the instructions regarding the 24th spur gear and cutting it off from an old diff- which diff is it excatly- may you have a partnumber- why is it better to use that?

You need to physiccally cut old differential to make 24 teeth clutch gear from part of it.

[lcaa]

I did find part 6573, that could be it?

EDIT:

I think I am right with part# 6573. It is in some sets like 8110, 8285, 8284. in DBG.

So I have to cut the front part of- understood!

How do you people cut this kind of plastic without damaging it?

Thanks!

Edited January 19, 2014 by lcaa

[DrJB]

How do you people cut this kind of plastic without damaging it?

It is rather easy. The plastic appears hard, but in fact u can easily cut it with an X-Acto knife ... Or you can start with a pair of pliers/shears, cut in the middle, leave a bit more on the gear side, then you can easily shave the rest off with a sharp blade. It is much easier than it appears.

[jantjeuh]

Yep, and use some fine-grained sanding paper to make the gear smooth and flat.

[lcaa]

Ok! Thanks- it worked liked that- excatly as DrJB described it (the 2nd way).

I still dont have all the parts together though- anybody has a pratlist for the Brickstore software?

I am member at rebrickable but I cant find a way to convert it...

THX!

[jantjeuh]

Ok! Thanks- it worked liked that- excatly as DrJB described it (the 2nd way).

I still dont have all the parts together though- anybody has a pratlist for the Brickstore software?

I am member at rebrickable but I cant find a way to convert it...

THX!

Here you go: http://rebrickable.c....e&src=MOC-0836.

You can use 'Export options' for that.

Edited January 19, 2014 by jantjeuh

[lcaa]

Disregard!

Edited January 19, 2014 by lcaa

[lcaa]

Hi Jan- it is working now!

Many thx!

PS: this time I saved it without changing the File-Name (of course I kept the file-ending ".bsx" before), now it is working, it shows 1 invalid part, when opening it with brickstore though, which is no problem.

Edited January 19, 2014 by lcaa

[lcaa]

Can sombody help me with page 219... I dont want to use the yekkow knob wheels.

I would like to follow the suggestion on page 235.

Can I replace the the yellow knob wheel from page 219 wtih a gear 12 tooth bevel and later using the gear 20 tooth double bevel?

THX!