I've read somewhere that LEDs are not suitable if you need to distinguish between coloured parts due to uneven colour graph. Well, unless you work in black and very-very dark grey

I could be wrong, but is fluorescent lighting not one of the causes of yellowing of white bricks over time? Not that this should be a reason not to use fluorescent lighting, as it's fairly cheap to run and gives good general light for the money.

Some fluorescents can emit ultraviolet light. UV light can damage ABS plastic. Enclosing the tube or bulb behind a lamp shade could reduce the UV exposure.

Using newer electronic ballast could reduce the flickering effect compared to the old magnet type ballast.

...I don't like the flicker the many fluorescent lights have...

Sparky's installed T4 (or T5, I can't remember which!) tubes with high-frequency electronic ballasts that are supposed to virtually eliminate flicker so hopefully it shouldn't be a problem.

Fingers crossed

Some fluorescents can emit ultraviolet light. UV light can damage ABS plastic. Enclosing the tube or bulb behind a lamp shade could reduce the UV exposure.

Using newer electronic ballast could reduce the flickering effect compared to the old magnet type ballast.

As my shed has one 16' wall that's almost all glass and 2 large windows on the end where I build there's loads of natural light to work by. I'll only need the lights for relatively short periods so hopefully (there's that word again! ) UV damage shouldn't be a problem.

As for the flickering effect, I'm using tubes with the electronic ballast.

That's for the info.

Because i started this topic over 2 years ago and ask you about your working place and it's great to see that a lot of people give a inside of there building area .

I don't know if you remember my first reply and picture of my working place.

Now 2 years later this working area is way to small and with sometimes working on 3 projects at the same time, that i needed extra space and have created an extra building place in my office.

Lucky i have enough room in my office and have now 3 building tabels and a lot of more storage boxes and the older building space is stil the same.

Also with the new tables i can stand upright and is way better for my back.

I hope you like it.

greetings Edwin

Edited November 28, 20159 yr by Edwin Korstanje

Very nice setup VFRac...uhhh....Edwin!!

Where did you get the storage containers? They sure look convenient.

Thanks Jim,

The 4 draw containers are from the Makro (€14,00 incl VAT) and the 8 draw is the same brand and comes from the Kwantum and are €24,00 incl Vat

Whoo. I wish I had such room So far I have to tide up my (rather small) desk, dig up my sotrage boxes from the drawers bellow my bed, lay it out around as well as I can (which usually means I can't exit the room without stepping over some) and then start building My approximate time to mess up whole table with bricks to the extent it no longer can be called a system is about 20 min Which actually doesn't really matter because this time is usually when I have to start packing everything back in order to do some other stuff in my room. No wonder it takes me ages to build something

Thanks Jim,

The 4 draw containers are from the Makro (€14,00 incl VAT) and the 8 draw is the same brand and comes from the Kwantum and are €24,00 incl Vat

Thanks!

If I ever move my collection to a new room, I will make sure to make a wall just like yours.

Now that's what I call a working space, I love your storage system. Oh to be that organised!

Edited November 28, 20159 yr by grum64

Nice work, Edwin! I like to see well organized work area such as this, almost as much as a good moc :)

Does anybody here use the 4' LED strip lights like this?

I don't use a strip like this but have recently changed my flood lights from halogen to LED. The biggest thing to pay attention to is the light temperature. The sweet spot is between 2300K and 2700K. Anything lower is too yellow, anything higher is too blue.

Also, don't be afraid to up the equivalent wattage if you are replacing bulbs in a regular fixture. For example, you can put in a 100w equivalent LED into a fixture that takes a 60w incandescent. The extra lumens rarely hurt, and you are still reducing your energy consumption by quite a bit.

My approximate time to mess up whole table with bricks to the extent it no longer can be called a system is about 20 min.

There is no difference between you and me and when building its looks i think the same :laugh: .

Now with the extra building place and a lot more storage containers i hope that i can work much more organized !!!?

Edited November 28, 20159 yr by Edwin Korstanje

Haha, yea, this is very familiar look But still I spot one major difference - you progress on your gigantic ships while I need ages to rig up small model

Today i have working for the first time in my new extra building place and make a lot of progress on a tugboat for Iskes and also started for a new customer disign a new set.

I already told you buddy, you have this excellent area(s) to build you MOC and do your job... :thumbup: Thanks for sharing...

We have a crappy unlevel floor in the living room with a couple shelves with some TLG models and a few 18 gallon (68 litre) bins. I also have a bunch of crappy non-SNOT MOC models scattered about the room (not worth posting, they suck compared everything else here). The 3 trains make it difficult to do much building anymore not to mention the half-finished Sydney Opera house (10234) my gf is fighting with.

After building the Arocs & Volvo loader (3 days apart), my back was killing me sitting on the floor.

As you can tell... Its a mess...

The bins next to the old bigscreen are the remainder to my lego collection.

Top bin: full of loose parts

Middle bin: Assorted MOC

Bottom bin: Assorted MOC

I see mostly Technic, Modulars and Star Wars, which looks familiar

After building the Arocs & Volvo loader (3 days apart), my back was killing me sitting on the floor.

Nice collection you have and like at special your plane mocs .

I can almost feel the pain in your back after three days building on the floor .

Edited November 30, 20159 yr by Edwin Korstanje

Well it is messy, but lovely!!! Maybe install a desk someday, that might help!

The Star Wars, Architecture, HST, train station, & Modulars are my girlfriends. As well as the Chima sets (Chima flying alligator thing was her *first* set). Also not pictured, but on top of the big tv is a VW Bbus (and micro bus), Mini Cooper (and micro cooper) and Ferrari.

3 of the planes include interiors. The black/gray & red one is actually based on a spacecraft in my sci-fi 'world' and is built close to minifigure scale. This one has an interior. The one facing the camera next to this spacecraft is a passenger plane that holds 24? minifigures is also Octan colored. Shame theres no Octan Airlines stickers.

I already have a 5' x 5' L desk in my room covered with computer & server stuff. The room the doorway leads into we plan on turning into a dedicated Lego room so we can reclaim the living room. Trying to talk my girlfriend into building a plywood 'table' around the room and assemble a city. I'd love to build a long girder drawbridge bridge spanning a few feet with an active load controlled by an arduino as a building challenge. The local library here does a small Lego thing every year for kids and I think it would be cool if we could setup a small 'display' like a mini Lego show and perhaps drum up some more Lego interest in this tiny town.

I see trains.

After building the Arocs & Volvo loader (3 days apart), my back was killing me sitting on the floor.

I think it is an age thing. The kids can seem to build on the floor with no pain...

I am just designing a new space at the moment.

It's not perfect, but it's mine.

It doesn't need to be perfect, if it suits your needs and have space for your parts, that's good enough

I just have a pretty regular desk with a lamp, some plastic containers with my parts in and a closet and tray in the desk with small half-done projects and stuff.