Book II - Kaliphlin: Guild sign-up and Discussion

[Gideon]

I just got into the Nikon world myself, the wifey got me an entry level DSLR for Christmas and so far it surpasses the flexibility and overall quality of my Canon DSLR.

Nikon vs Canon was a hard decision but finally I settled on Nikon due to the superior sensors and AF in the price range I was considering. Still not entirely sure I made the right decision however, Canon seems to have a superior lens lineup...

Nikon D 5100 is what I'm using, pretty cool piece once you figure out what to do with it!

I was looking at getting that one or the D7100, but I got convinced by a couple of crazy photography enthusiast friends that full-frame was the future. After pulling the ace card "the kids are only small once, better ensure that we can take good pictures", my wife surprisingly approved me buying a D750

Since I am switching system I also had to get new lenses. Aside from the crazily affordable kit lens 24-85 f/3.5-4.5, I also ended up ordering a quite affordable fast prime lens (50mm f/1.8) and a not so affordable tele zoom (70-200 f/4). My hope is that I'll be able to take most indoor pictures of the kids with the fast prime and mostly use the telezoom at more of a distance when documenting them playing outdoors. I don't know yet however if 70mm is short enough to use for all lego photography or if I'll have to use another lens for the overview shots of larger builds.

Anyway, as you might realize from my listing here this kind of stuff totaly can get out of hand...in this case to the point that after I'd placed the orders on the camera and lenses my bank called me and wanted to verify that no one had hijacked my credit card (!!).

I've probably spend the equal of a couple of years lego budget in an afternoon...

Ska is happy. I only have a speedlight, but when I have some spare money I plan on upgrading my lighting for a studio setup, I have always been a handheld photographer though, actually Lego is probably the most challenging thing for me to photo. I have always been interested in how to bounce light... another hobby I have had to really put on hold while trying to knock out this dissertation.

I've found out now when reading/watching camera reviews that there are tons of great tutorials (and even more not so great of course) on product photography out there...which after all photographing lego is. It seems to me like most are advocating a two-flash setup, which I'm eager to get to be able to control the lighting more freely. Especially getting light in underneath roofs/other protruding parts of a build can be tricky with my usual "bounce the flash off the ceiling" technique. So as I mentioned earlier, my plan is to get either stands for two speedlights with umbrellas or get a cheap studio flash kit with umbrellas or softboxes. Right now I'm gravitating towards trying to equip my old Olympus flash with an external trigger to use it as one of the off-camera flashes and use a future Nikon flash (probably a SB700 when my credit card has cooled off a bit, I need a new one as I'm not going to try putting another brand's flash with differend pin configuration on my new camera with the risk of frying it and/or the camera). There are however quite cheap studio flash kits (I've found one for about €160 which has two flashes with stands and umbrellas included) which doesn't cost much more than just buying all the stuff around the flashes. But as I already have one flash and need to get a new Nikon one, I might start out that way at least as long as I can find a reasonable triggering solution for my old flash and don't end up selling it along with the old camera.

For taking pictures of an entire build I would strongly suggest using a tripod, as getting enough depth of field is crucial to get top notch images. To achieve that it's necessary to step down the aperture (higher f-number) quite a bit and as the ISO should also be low to avoid noise a tripod is best to be able to have a long enough shutter speed. (Seems like all product photographers are using a tripod at least). Another good reason for shooting from a tripod is that it is possible to fine-tune the parameters while maintaining the same composition, which is a plus for people like me who like to tinker with quite exact camera angles to show the right parts of a build while hiding where I've taken shortcuts (yes, that has happened more than once). I actually try to think of the camera angles already in the layout phase when I'm starting a new build.

Taking closeups is easier to do handheld however as you then typically want to shoot with a larger aperture (smaller f-number) to get a short depth of field and a nice background blur. I'm planning to use my telezoom for those shots, and perhaps also the fast 50mm prime.

Anyway, apologize for deviating a bit off topic...I have to blame the fact that my mind is filled with photography now instead of the usual thoughts of plastic bricks

Edited December 30, 2014 by Gideon

[Kai NRG]

Wow, things are getting pretty technical in here! Remind me to come back to this section if I ever have enough cash to get myself a really good camera...

For now, a $100 second hand one will have to do the trick I guess!

I'm interested in hearing from different sources exactly how much you guys think a tripod helps, without me having to fiddle with camera settings (such as f-number). I used one once I think and didn't see any noticeable difference so I usually stick to hand held, which is less time consuming anyways.

[Gideon]

Wow, things are getting pretty technical in here! Remind me to come back to this section if I ever have enough cash to get myself a really good camera...

For now, a $100 second hand one will have to do the trick I guess!

I'm interested in hearing from different sources exactly how much you guys think a tripod helps, without me having to fiddle with camera settings (such as f-number). I used one once I think and didn't see any noticeable difference so I usually stick to hand held, which is less time consuming anyways.

For shooting pictures for viewing on screen, just about any camera will be able to make great lego pictures as long as the backdrop and lighting is good. I'm not getting a new camera because the lego shooting needs it, obviously my 8 year old Olympus (probably worth <$100 second hand now) still can do the trick.

I'm so tired of people blaming their bad lego shots on a bad camera... If the camera is not broken or only something like a smartphone it is most certainly the handling and not the camera that needs to be improved

A tripod is always good to keep the ISO down and hence the noise down, at least when shooting indoors with continous light rather than flash(es). Outdoors with enough light it might not be an issue to go hand-held, but I advice forcing a low ISO. Stepping down the aperture to get a long enough depth of field is more an issue with DSLRs (especially with larger sensors), a smaller camera with a smaller sensor has a longer depth of field and is actually easier to take those overview shots with (although of course not with the same image quality, but for only viewing on a screen it can be more than enough). Anyways, for stationary objects such as lego bricks, a cheap pocket camera stand and a chair (or just the chair ) does the trick, no need to go for fancy carbon composite tripods us photo nerds like or anything like that.

So the bottom line imho: People shouldn't get frightened by what camera other people are using, mind the other parts of the setup and the settings of the camera instead. And most importantly: People should learn to use what gear they have rather than think that you need to spend a lot of money that could have been used on bricks while still not using the gear to it's full potential

Edited December 30, 2014 by Gideon

[Ecclesiastes]

Speaking of studios:

This is mine at the moment. I know I've got the the right stuff, but I'm still not pleased enough by my photo's. I still need to learn more about using my camera settings to achieve better results. And I think a tri-pod is a must, in the way Gideon just explained!

[Kai NRG]

I actually have access to a really nice tripod, just hardly ever use it because for one thing I usually set up on the floor/ground, and it doesn't get that low, and for another thing using a tripod takes that much longer, since I have to build and the take apart the set up every single time. Since I am shooting outdoors perhaps it's not as important? I'll try to keep an eye on the ISO in the future, I really don't know what setting it usually ends up on. I do have the advantage of being able to steady myself on the floor - in general I think I'm pretty steady. If I ever move to an indoor set up though (which I certainly hope to do), a tripod or some sort of stand will definitely be in order!

[gedren_y]

Oooh! Big photography discussion to copy and read later.

One of my cats knocked over the major exterior of my Nestlands Embassy in Nocturnus. I still have several parts still intact, and will scale the build back to be an interior/exterior vig like the one for Mitgardia. Tried to post this on my new tablet earlier, but I am still getting used to the touchscreen.

[SkaForHire]

I was looking at getting that one or the D7100, but I got convinced by a couple of crazy photography enthusiast friends that full-frame was the future. After pulling the ace card "the kids are only small once, better ensure that we can take good pictures", my wife surprisingly approved me buying a D750

Since I am switching system I also had to get new lenses. Aside from the crazily affordable kit lens 24-85 f/3.5-4.5, I also ended up ordering a quite affordable fast prime lens (50mm f/1.8) and a not so affordable tele zoom (70-200 f/4). My hope is that I'll be able to take most indoor pictures of the kids with the fast prime and mostly use the telezoom at more of a distance when documenting them playing outdoors. I don't know yet however if 70mm is short enough to use for all lego photography or if I'll have to use another lens for the overview shots of larger builds.

I've found out now when reading/watching camera reviews that there are tons of great tutorials (and even more not so great of course) on product photography out there...which after all photographing lego is. It seems to me like most are advocating a two-flash setup, which I'm eager to get to be able to control the lighting more freely. Especially getting light in underneath roofs/other protruding parts of a build can be tricky with my usual "bounce the flash off the ceiling" technique. So as I mentioned earlier, my plan is to get either stands for two speedlights with umbrellas or get a cheap studio flash kit with umbrellas or softboxes. Right now I'm gravitating towards trying to equip my old Olympus flash with an external trigger to use it as one of the off-camera flashes and use a future Nikon flash (probably a SB700 when my credit card has cooled off a bit, I need a new one as I'm not going to try putting another brand's flash with differend pin configuration on my new camera with the risk of frying it and/or the camera). There are however quite cheap studio flash kits (I've found one for about €160 which has two flashes with stands and umbrellas included) which doesn't cost much more than just buying all the stuff around the flashes. But as I already have one flash and need to get a new Nikon one, I might start out that way at least as long as I can find a reasonable triggering solution for my old flash and don't end up selling it along with the old camera.

For taking pictures of an entire build I would strongly suggest using a tripod, as getting enough depth of field is crucial to get top notch images. To achieve that it's necessary to step down the aperture (higher f-number) quite a bit and as the ISO should also be low to avoid noise a tripod is best to be able to have a long enough shutter speed. (Seems like all product photographers are using a tripod at least). Another good reason for shooting from a tripod is that it is possible to fine-tune the parameters while maintaining the same composition, which is a plus for people like me who like to tinker with quite exact camera angles to show the right parts of a build while hiding where I've taken shortcuts (yes, that has happened more than once). I actually try to think of the camera angles already in the layout phase when I'm starting a new build.

Taking closeups is easier to do handheld however as you then typically want to shoot with a larger aperture (smaller f-number) to get a short depth of field and a nice background blur. I'm planning to use my telezoom for those shots, and perhaps also the fast 50mm prime.

Anyway, apologize for deviating a bit off topic...I have to blame the fact that my mind is filled with photography now instead of the usual thoughts of plastic bricks

I always shoot Lego with the zoom, I just stand far back in the room. I prefer to shoot with the 300mm zoom, but lately I have been using just the 200mm ( that same 70-200 you bought). The 50mm f 1.8 is great, I have a 35mm f 1.4, which I like to use also. Surprisingly, Nikon has great kit lens, so you can't go wrong starting there. Sadly, I bought a large photo box setup, but I keep building builds that don't fit inside the box... and I am not too sure the lights are strong enough.

[TheUtilityBelt]

Well as lazy as I am, I probably won't read this untill I need a new camera! As of now I've been using a Nikon something or other that my mom used for her photography biz. I'm still testing out new setups and stuff but I like it!

EDIT: I hope it's not too late, but here is my CMF Series!

Edited December 31, 2014 by TheUtilityBelt32

[Gideon]

Succeeded in getting one last-minute CCC IX build done, which also is my HSS: Raising Livestock entry for Barqa.

Now I'm going to see if my ideas for two relatively quick GoH builds will be possible to realize within 3 days.

Happy New Year!

[Ecclesiastes]

ATTENTION:

First of all, happy new year to all of you! I'm looking forward to see what you guys will build this year!

Secondly, there will be a deadline extension of just one week! So the new deadline for submitting entries is: January 11th!

[cookiesdad]

This is Invindra, my daughter's and my CCC XII entry that I will GoH-ize (it'll be more than just changing the flags). Invindra is a school of magic located somewhere Witherwoods. It magically moves so that only those who qualify may find it, allowing the school to avoid those pesky border wars that pop up from time to time.

The school itself is built around a floating tree of life, a magical focus that enhances the abilities of the teachers and powers the school. Mages, wizards, and paladins from across the four (five?) realms are welcomed and trained together. I've tried to reflect this cohesion (at least on the combat side) in the towers where combined forces of paladins, casters with their familiar, and footmen (and ballistas) form the defensive core for each tower. The dragon nest, of course, provides is own protection.

My goal is to turn this into a settlement (at 64x64 studs and 1 meter tall, I think I have enough features already to qualify as a village), though there are many future story telling elements to this build that are forth coming. I'll post better pictures when the first phase is done, and when I've found better photo editing software.

I blatantly copied drew a lot of inspiration from DNZ's Phean with the central tower.

Edit: I guess I still need my sigfig?

Edited January 3, 2015 by cookiesdad

[Captain Braunsfeld]

Speaking of studios:

This is mine at the moment. I know I've got the the right stuff, but I'm still not pleased enough by my photo's. I still need to learn more about using my camera settings to achieve better results. And I think a tri-pod is a must, in the way Gideon just explained!

Thanks for showing how you do your pictures (envy! )

I think I need to invest some more in my non-lego equipment...

Edited January 5, 2015 by kabel
No quoting of pics please!

[Yzalirk]

The things I'm ordering definitely won't come by the date of when the contest ends so I was thinking if there's any way to manipulate certain things with certain camera angles. For instance, there's a head I wanted to use for a certain minifig but I don't have the head, since I'm ordering it, would it be more necessary to manipulate the shot of the picture and just imaging the head is there or make another MOC showing how the change occurred to the character?

I like both ideas but I don't want to have nothing for the contest over something so simple.

[Kai NRG]

I'm not exactly sure to what you refer but it would certainly be better to shoot the picture at such an angle that you can't see the absence of the correct head rather than later come up with a story for why the head was different/non-existent/whatever. On the other hand you might be able to find a head that you have that's similar enough to pass as a different expression of the same person.

[Yzalirk]

That's why I meant.

I did find a head similar to the one I plan to get and use but the eye just has like an eye patch, I guess that's what it's considered, on the head I'm getting. Since I'll be using the head for a Dwarf, a story about him tinkering/building something and getting injured would suffice, wouldn't you think? Since I need to get builds up, I might go with the adding the extra story later.

[Gideon]

I've done several MOCs where the faces of all minfigs were not suitable for the scene, but as long as the build is designed to be shot in a way where parts of or the whole minifig face is not visible it's fine. The other side (literally) of the matter is how to compose and arrange minifigs when the head is dual-sided. I've had to reshoot a couple of things (most notably one of the closeups of the Streets of Barqa) when I realized that parts of the alternate face was visible from behind...

Edited January 6, 2015 by Gideon

[robuko]

@cookiesdad Wow! Looks like something from Roke Island. Fantastic build and great story addition.

[Yzalirk]

I should have a build or two up tomorrow or Friday. By Saturday, I'll have an entry up for each category.

[Yzalirk]

All three of my builds should be up today but slowly. I still have to make some adjustments to things and I wasted a few days trying to find the rest of the Dwarf legs I had when I had them in the most obvious spot.

The first one should be up sometime this afternoon.

[SkaForHire]

Well we finally started working on the Eastgate battlefield.

Here is a very early WIP

Wip of Eastgate battlefield by skaforhire, on Flickr

[SarahJoy]

A last-minute contribution to the challenge:

A Lapse in Faith

[NiceMarmot]

Sneaking in under the wire, my category A submission for the dwarves!

[TheUtilityBelt]

I have a question for you all. Should I continue using yellow or fleshy minifigs? I feel that fleshy has more details but yellow has more simplistic faces, plus the wide range of yellow themes. Will you help me?

[Yzalirk]

Personally, I like using fleshies for that same reason.

I'd say use whatever you have more of an abundance of and/or like better.

[gedren_y]

Both are used widely in GOH. The people of the Nestlands Clans of the Armored Eagle Goddess are fleshies.