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THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

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I'd rather spend 300€ on this than a certain orange offering from lego and the certain stuttgart go-kart manufacturer....

Probably been asked / answered before: but are the pneumatic cylinders modified with a spring inside ? or pumped up and sealed off?

As JJ2 already said, the inlets are drilled to 1.8mm, just as the cylinders in the LPEpower engines and there's springs inside.

The inlets don't have to be broken off like in the pics. I have just taken the most abused cylinders, to save the good ones for the engines.

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I think that the accuracy of mechanics already worth the existence of this MOC, even if it will stand on a shelf without LPE or PF motors.

This +1 :thumbup:

Can You give some description (and sorry if it was written already) or small video footage about the small turntable + axle combo? Do they attach to each other smmothly? Any issue, slack?

Looks innovative, and great progress so far!

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This +1 :thumbup:

Can You give some description (and sorry if it was written already) or small video footage about the small turntable + axle combo? Do they attach to each other smmothly? Any issue, slack?

Looks innovative, and great progress so far!

Thanks, now it looks innovative in a different way. :classic:

I assume, You will use some kind of lubrication, as this kind of connection will generate a lot of friction.

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What do you mean? There is just as much friction as in an unmodified small turntable. The dark bluish gray hubs are superglued to the light bluish gray rotor parts, creating the wheel hub lego should have made. (well... we need hubs with 8880 CV joints, but that's an entirely different matter)

Having said that, i do lubricate them just as i lubricate any wheel hub that i use (big turntable hubs, normal axle connections..)

Edited by nicjasno

I understood the meaning of the small tube (having seen The Lego Movie :classic: ). I mean the unmodified small turntable, with all the next parameters: vertical position, vertical forces probably with some offset, the considerable weight of the car, rotation.

I also use silicon spray for wheel hubs at motorised models, it makes definitive a difference, at least eliminates the screech.

Thanks for the answers, will follow this build.

As JJ2 already said, the inlets are drilled to 1.8mm, just as the cylinders in the LPEpower engines and there's springs inside.

The inlets don't have to be broken off like in the pics. I have just taken the most abused cylinders, to save the good ones for the engines.

:thumbup: ah yes I have some of those with broken inlets....

Wow! Was waiting for the progress of this car for a copuple of years! Looking with interest! Great job!

The body looks great :thumbup:

Why do the front wheels have so much toe-out?

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The body looks great :thumbup:

Why do the front wheels have so much toe-out?

Because of the slack in lego small ball joints. They point perfectly straight when the car is on all 4 wheels and there is also no bump steer.

My next car will ofc have bionicle ball joints again. I hate this slack.

Love the progress,.. like said before, even without lpe this is awesome.

Out of curiousity, do you have an e30 yourself?

you don't even need body for this beauty :)

i love seeing all the details in your chassis

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:blush: Proper. :wub: :wub: Must have been the best feeling on the ring.

It's nice to drive there indeed. :)

More detail pics:

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Looking at this build and your older large scale builds, I feel like I'd want to go the way of using large turntables as hubs with non Lego wheels. As your build shows even the sturdiest of constructions have slack due to use of ball joint pins and small hubs. I can't imagine building at your level but I'm definitely going to give it my best shot, watching these threads really help, hope this MOC turns out great!

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