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Posted

I did think about these but there are no holes across the centre (in the right direction!) for the middle three layers of liftarms. This wouldn't matter so much for connecting sides made of studded bricks, because the middle layers are held by the studs. Anyway I have made a 5 x 3 version of both [and the studded version is considerably stronger when trying to bend the beam (in the vertical direction , which is most important). (ignore the 'bend' in the photo, that's due to the camera lens!) .... thanks Blakbird, just seen your comment after posting mine. Yes, triangles are strong but the diagonal (5) needs a 6-hole liftarm doesn't it? -not available in thick and expensive in thin. The 5x3 liftarms are a good compromise.

for 5x3 try using panels on both sides with liftarms between them

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Posted (edited)
If you're using any normal-length (2L) friction pins, make sure none of them are the old ones (the ones without center slots)! Those are hard enough to pull out one at a time.
I'm using 3L pins, but I know what you mean - I have put all those older 2L pins into separate storage so they don't get used accidentally!
for 5x3 try using panels on both sides with liftarms between them
Panels are an expensive solution, but more importantly they don't give the option of overlapping the layers, so there is a weak point at the join of each panel. Anyway I think I have come up with a better solution, without using liftarms but using all studful construction:p1020038.jpg - this is immensely strong, if somewhat difficult to assemble (and disassemble....) - in case the photo isn't clear, the liftarms are replaced with continuous 6-stud technic bricks with a 1x6 plate every 3rd brick. Edited by quilkin
Posted

I'm pretty sure it's a telescopic boom, I don't know what else it could be. I think you should just stick with the studded, but does that fit the size limits?

Posted
Just wondering, what are you building?
Yes, it's a bike, you can see some of it here; the frame is far too floppy at present (it bends under its own weight!) which is why I'm trying to redesign it. I'll post new pictures (in a new thread) when it's rebuilt. Jim's suggestion of increasing the cross-sectional size put me on the right track.
Posted

You don't want dead weight and bigger/longer parts and lower count will help with that.

Those frames that Jim linked are your best bet IMHO. Sandwitched between liftarms the resulting structure is strong AND light.

Posted

I'm trying to make a smaller scale supercar, I don't know what kind yet. Does anyone have any advice on building a front independent suspension with some advanced geometry like caster and ackermann steering, but is also compact?

Posted

I'm trying to make a smaller scale supercar, I don't know what kind yet. Does anyone have any advice on building a front independent suspension with some advanced geometry like caster and ackermann steering, but is also compact?

How compact is compact? Madoca's supercar is pretty small scale for Technic and has suspension and steering.

Posted

How compact is compact? Madoca's supercar is pretty small scale for Technic and has suspension and steering.

About that compact, maybe a little larger. That one has suspension and steering, but I'm also trying to implement more advanced geometry. I can do it, but most of my designs are too tall.
Posted

Hello everybody ! I'm new to this forum, but have been following it for some years now.

I have some questions about a six legged walker that i am building.

It's now on it's 3. revision.

I'm trying to get it to turn but it's struggels when it's turning left or right.

I have build a gearbox that can change direction on the two drive axels, that drives the legs, three on each side.

But somehow it's almost brings my XL motor to it's knees and almost destroying it self !!

So what am i doing wrong ?

Would like to put up some pictures, but have to wait until i have made some more posts.

Posted

Would like to put up some pictures, but have to wait until i have made some more posts.

Anybody can link images from an image hosting site. Get an account on Flickr or Bricksafe or Brickshelf, post your pictures, and then link them here. Even when you have enough posts you'll find that the storage limit prevents you from posting much of any images directly on Eurobricks.

Posted

Well. I have got another question, I have made a simple drawing of the geartrain of my walker.

The upper one is how the legs are driven for now, i want to see how i can achieve the legs to be driven

like the lower one. The drive axle are only three studs wide, so do any of you how to do this without the drive axles interfering with

each others ???

post-89866-0-81163000-1380356464_thumb.jpeg

Posted

You know, you just posted that, and there's no really no need to bump this thread....

Oh sorry, that's actually different. Side A to side A? Maybe a little more specific?

Posted

If you carefully look at the lower drawing you can see how i want the legs to be driven. ignore the two parallel axles for now, i would like to know

how to make them shift side like this .

----A--I B I --A----

I I

I I

----B I --A-I B----

And again from B to B to B. Widthout the axels interferring each other.

Posted

If you carefully look at the lower drawing you can see how i want the legs to be driven. ignore the two parallel axles for now, i would like to know

how to make them shift side like this .

----A--I B I --A----

I I

I I

----B I --A-I B----

And again from B to B to B. Widthout the axels interferring each other.

HEUREKA !!! :classic:

I think i've got a solution to the problem, it includes a couple of spur gears at some thinking out the box so to speak.

Will se i can put some pictures up tomorrow.

Now back to brainstorming !!!

Posted

Finally !

I think i got it right width this little contraption.

Hope you like it and if you come up width a better solution please be

free to post it here.

Do you have any photos of it from other angles? I'm having trouble understanding how it works. Thanks!

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