Post your general LEGO Star Wars questions here

[Robianco]

speaking on the subject of yellowing bricks does anyone know if that effect on bricks can be removed or are at least reversed a bit? I have a lot of old yellow grey pieces so is it possible to change that? I remember reading something about oxi-clean years ago but can't seem to find the article.

The same is true with mini figures especially the mostly white ones like stormtroopers, but I don't want to mess up their printing.

Thanks

Funnily enough I've just looked up how to do that and I'm quite hopeful for it. Buy a bottle of Hydrogen Peroxide... it's readily available at a chemist or pharmacy... 6% strength I think it is on the bottles here in the UK. Pour it in a jam jar and put the yellowed pieces into the car and place the jar outside in sunlight for a couple of days. When you take them out if should have reduced the yellowing. I've seen it with white and grey pieces and they looked close to new... apparently it also leaves print untouched and has no effect on it.

The person I saw doing it on Youtube has previously done it on old Kenner Stormtrooper figures and had some success with those too:

Jangbricks has also done a video on this using the same solution:

Edited February 9, 2016 by Robianco

[nymmerod]

The person I saw doing it on Youtube has previously done it on old Kenner Stormtrooper figures and had some success with those too:

Jangbricks has also done a video on this using the same solution:

I peroxide-bleached several Kenner Stormtroopers with this yellowing issue about 5 years ago. Some of them were so yellowed that they were unable to be fully restored to white but they definitely look several shades whiter. And there was no discernible effect to the black painted details. But I've never tried it on Lego elements.

[Borex]

Thanks all for replying,

I'm hoping mine isn't the same. It's still boxed up so I'd hope for white parts all round. It's a bit concerning if this is happening to new parts as they should all be made with the same ABS (or whatever it is they're using these days) shouldn't they?

Yeah, that's what i thought too. I don't mind the white changing a bit over time, but when i spend my bucks on a new set, i want it to be looking supernew, and not like i used some of my old parts.

Mine was ok when built. The only piece that was very slightly....and I mean realy barely noticeable...different shade was one of the technic arms in the dorsal wing. There was a topic a few months ago about this subject iirc

I will look for the topic. Thanks!

If it helps, when I built Tydirium in December all the parts seemed to be the same shade and there did not appear to be any yellowing. I bought it and built it within a week.

I bought it in october but kept the box sealed to a later date (didn't have time to build it)

Mine has consistent white color. You should definitely contact LEGO if you're unhappy with it.

Thanks, will do. Especially now i know that you received a consistent white colour and yellowed white bricks isn't the new standard :-D

[usbdevice]

speaking on the subject of yellowing bricks does anyone know if that effect on bricks can be removed or are at least reversed a bit? I have a lot of old yellow grey pieces so is it possible to change that? I remember reading something about oxi-clean years ago but can't seem to find the article.

The same is true with mini figures especially the mostly white ones like stormtroopers, but I don't want to mess up their printing.

Thanks

Hi Forresto, I too "de-yellowed" some older white and grey bricks with good results. The original site (in addition to the videos already posted by others) that had the information was http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com. That page doesn't exist anymore but fortunately it can still be found via the wayback machine at http://web.archive.org. I don't know when the original page went offline but I chose a date in 2011 and that seemed to work:

http://web.archive.o...wikispaces.com/

There's a lot of background information there plus a gallery with some pictures (lots are missing).

I did not make a gel but simply immersed my bricks in the liquid peroxide/Oxy-solution. I also used a very strong peroxide solution, 30%, and what that did for me was that the entire thing was done in a little more than an hour (outside in the summer sun) instead of 8-24 hours. Your mileage may vary.

I used a glass container, wrapped with aluminium foil around the outside for reflection of the sunlight, and stirred (use a PTFE(Teflon)-coated stirring rod or a 1x16 Technic brick ) the bricks around a bit every couple of minutes in order to maximise their exposure to the sunlight.

I did NOT try this on any printed parts.

Lenny

[Artanis I]

Hey guys, huge thread about yellowing, de-yellowing and so on here

[neoconagenda]

Thank you I had been looking for that thread a while back!

[Artanis I]

Yeah took ages to find, strangely

[Jackad7]

So I recently got a light up luminara unduli that has a mostly dead battery and is missing her cape. I don't mind since I knew what I was buying and I know how to replace the battery, my question is if there is a way to remove her head without damaging the figure to put another cape on. Thanks for any help!

[Forresto]

I remember there was a thread on this a few years ago and if memory serves me I dont think you can remove the head and use it as a regular one. I think many tried at the time especially because of Mace Windu only being available in light up form. If theres a way to, I have never heard of it.

[Immo]

I'd cut the new cape to put it on. There is a way to merge it back somehow, I'm sure. Maybe with a heated needle? After all, it's a synthetic fabric, right?

[rollermonkey]

As Immo suggests, I would do that, but don't cut the thin part that goes in front. Make a slice down the center of the cape big enough to go over the head without tearing, then after it is closed up, more of the closed slice will be less visible and you maintain strength at the thinnest area.

Edited February 11, 2016 by rollermonkey

[Forresto]

Yes thank you so much for finding that.

[Gremer]

Quick question: I'm trying to decide between the Ep. 7 X-Wing and the Resistance Troop Transporter. Which one should I get?

[Forresto]

Quick question: I'm trying to decide between the Ep. 7 X-Wing and the Resistance Troop Transporter. Which one should I get?

I would personally get the resistance troop transporter and then get the regular resistance X-Wing that's releasing in the summer wave. Just brick link the mini figures from the current x wing if you really just want the minifigures. However it really depends on which you prefer.

The black X-Wing has Poe Dameron in pilot gear, a generic pilot, and a ground crew technician all unique to the set. The Rebel Transporter has the unique admiral Akbar and Princess Leia mini figures as well as two Resistance troopers (one has a unique print exclusive to this set). If you're going to buy a resistance trooper battle pack or two I say go for the transporter, if not go for the X Wing.

[jdm44]

Quick question: I'm trying to decide between the Ep. 7 X-Wing and the Resistance Troop Transporter. Which one should I get?

The X-wing is a better display piece but the resistance Transporter wins in every other way. The build is awesome. The minifigs are better. The ship is solid and fun to fly around. It has a ton of playability. Get the Resistance Battle Pack to load it up with more troops.

[Gremer]

Thank you both. :)

I was actually planning on picking up the summer X-Wing either way. I was kinda worried that the black X-Wing would be discontinued some time this year with the other X-Wing coming out. But since both of you agreed on the RTT, I think I'll get that for now and get the black-wing for my birthday in a month.

[ChiefPie]

I have a $25 MasterCard and I've been thinking about brick linking some minifigs but I don't know which ones I should really buy if I don't have them. Any ideas?

[HawkLord]

With Star Wars being so expansive, you'll have to be a bit more specific with what your interests are so that people can give you a better opinion. $25 could probably get you about 400,000 battle droids or one rare main character.

[ChiefPie]

With Star Wars being so expansive, you'll have to be a bit more specific with what your interests are so that people can give you a better opinion. $25 could probably get you about 400,000 battle droids or one rare main character.

Well I've thought about the polybag figures, and commander wolffe. I'm interested in all the figures except swtor.

[Forresto]

Well I've thought about the polybag figures, and commander wolffe. I'm interested in all the figures except swtor.

Which do you prefer more, original trilogy or prequels? That's important as some can cross over while others are distinct to their time period.

For instance Admiral Yularen is an amazing polybag mini figure I am desperately trying to get That one is $13 now which isn't bad if you're like me and think thats reasonable, but it's along the line of prices you'll encounter if your'e looking for specific mini figures that only appeared in one set.

[ChiefPie]

Which do you prefer more, original trilogy or prequels? That's important as some can cross over while others are distinct to their time period.

For instance Admiral Yularen is an amazing polybag mini figure I am desperately trying to get That one is $13 now which isn't bad if you're like me and think thats reasonable, but it's along the line of prices you'll encounter if your'e looking for specific mini figures that only appeared in one set.

Yularen is a great minifig that I have. I prefer both OT and PT. But as of now I'm collecting OT.

[Forresto]

Yularen is a great minifig that I have. I prefer both OT and PT. But as of now I'm collecting OT.

You could get a bunch of imperial personnel and soldiers as well as rebels if you're trying to army build. Especially the ones that appeared in battle packs. Buying torsos and helmets seems to be cheaper then buying a whole mini figure depending on the figure. You will have to do the calculations though since it fluctuates. The problem we face as Americans is that many of the big sellers are in european or asian countries I think. Brink link is still definitely the way to go though.

[ChiefPie]

You could get a bunch of imperial personnel and soldiers as well as rebels if you're trying to army build. Especially the ones that appeared in battle packs. Buying torsos and helmets seems to be cheaper then buying a whole mini figure depending on the figure. You will have to do the calculations though since it fluctuates. The problem we face as Americans is that many of the big sellers are in european or asian countries I think. Brink link is still definitely the way to go though.

Yeah. Depending on whether wolffe in the at-te has his helmet or not I may get phase 1 wolffe. I have also been thinking about the TFA c3po.

[Forresto]

Yeah. Depending on whether wolffe in the at-te has his helmet or not I may get phase 1 wolffe. I have also been thinking about the TFA c3po.

TFA C3PO looks like it has really nice printing and that would fit into any situation no matter the era.

[HawkLord]

I have the TFA C-3PO and it's a great figure. I'd also recommend the upcoming OT battle packs.