Ford Mustang Shelby GT500

[tibivi]

Nicely done, the orange catches the eye for sure

Tibivi

[Rishab N]

That orange sure looks great! Must have been a pain to get all those parts

[timslegos]

The orange is absolutely stunning, I love it!

tim

[Duky]

Hi everyone! I need some help, because i think my gearbox didn't work correctly or i can't use the remote control correct ;)

i built the gearbox the third time now, but i am not satisfied. the servo motor works very hard, but i think he is overstrained. it doesn't work smoothly.

the gearbox is rasing a little bit itself, when i wanna change the speed. i need some help.

how did i know, which speed i am currently use?

[Appie]

I had the gearbox raise once when I was messing around with the 1L technic bricks on the liftarms on top, because my first gear wouldn't play nice when another gear was engaged. Messing around with that also strained the servo motor, so could possibly be that something is blocking there or doesn't have enough room to move. All axles can move freely? Other than that I don't know, I assume the servo has been set up properly with an IR reciever and a battery box before hooking it up in the model?

Edited May 6, 2014 by Appie

[Duky]

yes, all the axles can move freely! But if i place the axle on instructionpage 59 of the gearbox.... something is strained. i can't mount it like it is on the instruction photo! The 2 yellow bush under the axle and the Technic, Gear 8 Tooth Type 2 doesn't fit together.

Edited May 6, 2014 by Duky

[Appie]

Yeah, that one was a tight fit I had to double check if it was really supposed to go in that hole above the 2 yellow half bushes, but it does. The friction on that part is on purpose to stay in the selected gear, but it shouldn't strain the servo, might happen a few times, but not most of the time.

Also about your other question, about seeing which speed is what, check Sheepo's video, he placed some stickers on the liftarms. Basically the left (closest to the driver) is first and reverse, middle is 2 and 3, on the right is 4 and 5.

[Rishab N]

Just wondering how much do the RC and manual models cost to build?

Edit: Have any of you built the manual model? If so do you guys have any pics?

Edited May 6, 2014 by Rishab N

[Darth Kram]

Just wondering how much do the RC and manual models cost to build?

Edit: Have any of you built the manual model? If so do you guys have any pics?

I just went and added up all the orders I made for the RC version and it came to $947 NZD (about $824 USD). This was for all the pieces (mainly in new condition) except for the 2 IR transmitters and receivers which I already had. About $150-$200NZD of that price was shipping as shipping to New Zealand is not cheap. Keep in mind that I got in early to build this and all the flex axles and red axle connectors #3 were still very cheap.

Edited May 7, 2014 by Darth Kram

[Duky]

Yeah, that one was a tight fit I had to double check if it was really supposed to go in that hole above the 2 yellow half bushes, but it does. The friction on that part is on purpose to stay in the selected gear, but it shouldn't strain the servo, might happen a few times, but not most of the time.

okay i will check it in the evening. but the rubber axle connector between the 2 axle pins with friction is correct?

The Problem is, that can't mount the axle with the two black cam's in the middle position, only displaced, because of the Technic Gear 8 tooth. (only in a gear)

[Appie]

I don't remember what position I had the black cams in before placing it, might have been slightly upwards to the right (5th gear). Considering that's where you want it go while using the model, it shouldn't be a problem. And yes the rubber axle connector between the pins is correct. It's to give a little bit of leeway for the liftarm in which that 8T gear goes to move.

[750ACE]

Rishab N, on 06 May 2014 - 08:43 PM, said:

Just wondering how much do the RC and manual models cost to build?

Edit: Have any of you built the manual model? If so do you guys have any pics?

I just went and added up all the orders I made for the RC version and it came to $947 NZD (about $824 USD). This was for all the pieces (mainly in new condition) except for the 2 IR transmitters and receivers which I already had. About $150-$200NZD of that price was shipping as shipping to New Zealand is not cheap. Keep in mind that I got in early to build this and all the flex axles and red axle connectors #3 were still very cheap.

I just hit the $350 mark and still need all of the electronics, several lift arms and a couple black bushings (est another $150.00). I had to put together nearly 15 orders just for the red connectors. I kid you not I had 15 tabs open at the same time in Internet Explorer with 15 shopping carts all full of my wanted parts. After deleting and adding everything making sure I didn't have duplicates I hit the buy button on all, roughly 3000 parts total. I had about 10 orders beyond that for the other parts. I was able to get all of the flex axles at great prices a couple months back. I am building the red remote controlled model because I want it to be identical to the original creation. All parts but a few are new. Hope this helps.

Edited May 7, 2014 by 750ACE

[Rishab N]

Thanks for the price info guys. I don't mind used parts so I think itll be cheaper

[750ACE]

Thanks for the price info guys. I don't mind used parts so I think itll be cheaper

Not to much cheaper that is why most of my parts except the connectors are new. Almost all of the connectors were used. I refuse to buy used liftarms for a display model.

[Appie]

Well yesterday I recieved 99.9% of my missing pieces so figured I might as well post the images of my Mustang. I also made a few mods in general, but I also had to find an alternative for 2 pieces that simply don't exist in white. Part 42003, which I replaced with part 32068 or part 6536 and part 44 which I could only replace with connectors that represented the intended angles as close as possible, on the front this works fine, but at the rear lights there is a little bit of tension on the pin connectors (or well the axle pins in the connectors).

Overall shot, with first mod (also seen here before) lights

And from the rear

As you can see I also moved the 7L liftarm in front of the rear wheelarch to the back (for now, 5L will come this week, since this is too closed off for my taste). I didn't like how the flex axle went around the liftarm in the instructions and Sheepo actually has a 5L there too in the video on his site

I made room for brake lights too in these units, but my 3rd pair of PF lights should come this week, will look like this then:

I didn't really like the DBG interior so I gave that an overhaul too:

I wanted the lights to be operated somewhere from the dash, without buying another extension wire I had to turn around the batterybox and raise it (latter needed anyway to fit 3 connectors on it). This way the wires gave me just enough room to place it under the driver's seat. So the model still looks as clean as possible. I then had to find a way (preferably again without changing much of the original) to link the switch to the dash. I already had an idea to use flex system for this for nostalgia, but didn't expect it to turn out this well:

Switch from the bottom of the car:

I made the steering a little more idiot proof (aka "me proof" )

This also meant I had to adjust the liftarm above it or else the 24T clutch gear would touch it. I fixed this with some half liftarms leaving a 1L space where the 24T clutch gear is.

Also, I ordered 11L black flex axles, but they actually turned out to be 12L, hence the little mod of that at the front with the black pins and no axle connectors at the sides.

Gave the engine a little overhaul, since I wanted to see the cylinders movement more, also made them blue to go with the blue 1x8 tiles.

Since I wanted red brakes I also switched out some red bottoms of the springs with yellows, to make some red "hard spring" x4

If this is too many pics for a post, I apologize, I'll sign up to flickr and host them there then and just link to an album there.

edits: fixed some links

Edited May 11, 2014 by Appie

[Rishab N]

Nice personal touches. I wonder if a yellow and black version is possible

[Appie]

Thanks.

Yellow as main colour? 11L flex axles yellow were only used in 1 model iirc and I am not sure if all lengths were made in yellow, but could be pretty pricey and slow just on those 11L yellows. I looked into this when I wanted to make the stripe yellow (and the main colour black), but I didn't find that as interesting as white and blue, so discarded it. Of course with pneumatic tubes like I did it should be possible or perhaps rigid hoses.

[Appie]

Past few weeks I have been looking at the Mustang and it annoyed me a little that it is 99% Lego. So I revisted the soft axles on bricklink. I dismissed the idea back then because there were no 16L whites, but back then I didn't think of fixing that with some 14L's. So the past week I revisted bricklink and fixing the 16L's was pretty easy, just added 1 stud at each end of the solid parts for the soft axles. It got me thinking about other soft axles in this model that could easily be altered for other ones to save some money. Like the 14L reds, you could easily change these to 4x 12L reds and add an axle connector for half the price of 1x 14L red. As seen in Thunderfold's orange Mustang adding more solid connectors to these parts doesn't change much of the look of the model. I also altered the outer soft axles of the hood to 12L's, easy fix for people that face expensive 11L's (for me it was just being lazy and not wanting to make another bricklink order for 2 soft axles ).

So here's an image of my 100% Lego Mustang

Also added a little bit of white to the rims with some half stop bushes. I tried other options but everything felt like too much white (even full bushes ). Also didn't like 8880 rims with the white body, but these half bushes feel just about right.

Woops I was last poster, guess I should have edited that one.

Edited May 24, 2014 by Appie

[Sheepo]

It looks really well in white and blue!!

There are any part specially hard to find in white or blue?

[Appie]

Thank you very much!

Well there are a few parts that can be hard to find:

- 4L ribbed hose white

- One guy basically holds the "new" market for the white #4 axle and pin connector, luckily you only need 6 of these (need 2 more compared to the normal parts list since this part doesn't exist in white)

- white long pin with stop bush isn't much available. I managed to reduce the number needed to 6 on the Mustang that were part of the body (at the rear wheel arches, on top near the rear lights and at the hood). Others I changed to white stop bushes (plenty available) with an axle (like in the chairs) or changed to black to blend with the chassis.

- I changed quite a few of these connectors to these connectors. Mainly because the new price scared me and I am always a little careful buying white parts used for the risk of yellowed parts. My model only has 2 of the 19 intended connectors. The ones on the outside of the hood, the others I could keep in place through other means that didn't affect the look.

Of course soft axles don't escape either in this set up, but don't cost as much (yet?) as some of the red or black ones. 11L white soft axles can be quite expensive though second hand parts have been nice to me in terms of price and quality. Also 14L and 19L aren't much available.

Blue parts I didn't have much issues. The only problem is that Lego blue can vary a little in colour, which you will notice when you are really up close. Getting all parts in the exact same blue would be very hard. I even had colour differences in the same zip bags from bricklink shops on (new) parts.

Edited May 24, 2014 by Appie

[Sheepo]

Many thanks for the info ;)

The blue differents colors unfortunately is very usual :(, I discover that when I built the Veyron.