Question regarding Power Functions Motors

[Paperballpark]

Hi, I'm wondering if anyone has tried using one of the other PF motors (8883 M-Motor, 8882 XL-Motor or 88003 L-Motor) to power a train, rather than the standard train motor? I'm curious as to which is best for use in trains, as I'd like to do a train where I don't have to rely on the standard train motor. Ideally I wouldn't use the XL Motor, as that looks a bit big to hide in a 6-wide train.

I've looked for a thread like this but can't find one. I may have missed it however.

Thanks!

[zephyr1934]

Yes, all of these motors have been used to power trains. The most recent post that I recall is Legoman666 using the L motors. If you look though the MOC index, particularly steam engines, you should find several more with XL and the diesels have had some medium motor powered MOCs.

[Man with a hat]

You may also want to check http://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm for a comparison of all the motors. It gives a nice overview.

[Paperballpark]

Thanks for that. I found that earlier, but it's basically an overload of data - it tells me what torque each motor produces, in something called 'N.cm', which it doesn't explain, and nor does it explain whether more N.cm is good or bad, rendering the data pretty much useless to anyone who doesn't know. It also really doesn't answer the main question I have, which is: which of the L or M motor is best for powering trains?

[Rufus]

Don't forget that the Emerald Night official PF mod uses an XL motor.

[Paperballpark]

It does? Oh ok, I just assumed it used a train motor. I build 6-wide though, so XL would be too wide for my use.

[Hrw-Amen]

You have to think about it a bit more certainly, but I have found an XL motor to be the best if you are not using the proper train one. I have a couple of engines I have built using that one. I have not had a lot of success with the M Motor to be honest. I have tried it but found it very hard to get any speed out of. Great for pulling but only at a snails pace. I know people will say it needs to be geared right and a lot of MOCS have more than one M motor but i have never tried that so cannot comment.

[Paperballpark]

Ok thanks, it might be that an L motor would be better then.

[legoman666]

Ok thanks, it might be that an L motor would be better then.

Yep, my EMD uses 4 L motors in 1 locomotive. Lots of power. And in my past builds I've put 2 XL motors in a booster, 1 XL in a steam train, 1 M in a trolley, and 1 M in a mining train.

Very easy to do once you get a good bogie design down. Only problem is fitting the rest of the PF components in too!

[greenmtvince]

I actually find the m motor to be too high rpm too low torque and prefer to gear it for slower operation. but I model 8-wide North American freight on shunting/switching layouts, so being able to push around heavy cars at slow speeds is what I need.

the m motor is great for 6 wide because you can fit if into some small spaces using 3-brick tall panels. I built an ALCO S4 using this technique with a 5:3 gear ratio shown below.

[dr_spock]

Hi, I'm wondering if anyone has tried using one of the other PF motors (8883 M-Motor, 8882 XL-Motor or 88003 L-Motor) to power a train, rather than the standard train motor? I'm curious as to which is best for use in trains, as I'd like to do a train where I don't have to rely on the standard train motor. Ideally I wouldn't use the XL Motor, as that looks a bit big to hide in a 6-wide train.

I've looked for a thread like this but can't find one. I may have missed it however.

Thanks!

You can put both motors on one channel (red or blue) for easier control. Depending on the motor's current draw, a V2 IR receiver may or may not be necessary. I think for L motor you may need to use the V2 IR receiver if you want to connect two L motors to the same channel.

You may not not need a polarity reverser depending on how you mount the motors and geared the drive train.

I used a M motor in my AEM-7 and just plunked it through the floor. I ended up replacing it with a PF train motor as I needed the M motor for a Great Ball Contraption module. I think it is easier to use the PF train motor unless you have special needs.

[Paperballpark]

Thanks! I was thinking of just using one motor. It sounds like the L-Motor would be best for that.

I'm trying to think out of the box with the PF components - trying different ways of incorporating them into engines, seeing what can be done - and how to best incorporate that damned battery box! Some ideas I have would be easier to do if I didn't have to use the Train motor, hence my original question.

[Duq]

The L-motor seems to be a much better option than the M-motor. More torque, easier to mount and still 3x3. I've used one in my BR 55 steam engine:

BR55 Drive train by Duq, on Flickr

[grymg]

Hi guys I just finished bricklinking the Emerald Night, is it better to mod the PF train motor on the tender to run this train, or to use the XL motor on the loco as mentioned in the instructions? I dunno, something about the two bevel gears just screams problem waiting to happen for me. And there's no way to adjust gear mesh. Do I have to get spare gears due to wear and tear?

[Daedalus304]

I think it mostly comes down to how many cars you want it to pull, but personally I would use an XL motor either way as it`s significantly stronger and doesnt require any rebuilding or a lot of mod work. The train motor works, but you willwant to remove the gears from the engine and need to understand your pulling power is going to be limited to just a couple cars.

[Heppeng]

I have not heard of the gears giving problems, and I know that some of the EN's on here take quite a pounding on long trains. And even if they did wear out eventually, the beauty of lego makes for easy replacement!

[kieran]

My en, has a single m mother in the boiler and can pull three cars at a reasonable scale speed, think i will change to a L at some point

[zephyr1934]

I actually find the m motor to be too high rpm too low torque and prefer to gear it for slower operation. but I model 8-wide North American freight on shunting/switching layouts, so being able to push around heavy cars at slow speeds is what I need.

the m motor is great for 6 wide because you can fit if into some small spaces using 3-brick tall panels. I built an ALCO S4 using this technique with a 5:3 gear ratio shown below.

Have you posted more about that MOC? It looks quite interesting. If not, please do start a new thread about it... there are some great details in that loco and it would be handy to have it in the MOC index (I also like your trees)

[greenmtvince]

No, just what was in that thread. After I got back from Afghanistan that switching layout languished in a foot locker for some time until recently where it's being used for parts for a new 8-wide switching layout.The GE 44 Tonner I'm working on uses a similar configuration for motor and transmission.

However, both trucks are powered for maximum traction and I use a 5:1 gear ratio to get really fine low speed control and plenty of torque at the wheels to push around heavy 8-wide boxcars.

and it is taking shape in the brick form. Runs beautifully.

Even though it's an 8 wide model, to build it to scale, it only has a 4-wide hood, so I imagine the techniques here are also applicable to other 6-wide trains. It runs really nice.

A few mods that I use:

1. Kadee #806 couplers for hands free switching
   
2. Thick, soft, o-rings instead of the stock ones around the wheels
   
3. 9V Battery (though if one forgoes a powered truck, you can use a 9V battery box)
   
4. IR reciever guts stripped out of the casing (Don't need to, but I had the leftover one from the ALCO S4
   

)and while not really a mod, I use a train weight.

Here's the prototype: http://www.rrpicture....aspx?id=172196

Edited January 12, 2014 by greenmtvince

[zephyr1934]

Wow! That's a great looking 44 tonner. And you went and answered almost all of the question that came to mind except one. Where did you wind up stashing the actual IR receiver after stripping it out of its casing? Looking at the prototype, one thing you might want to do is put a red cheese brick on the running boards on either side of the cab, to capture the taper of the original.

Still, it would be great to have this loco split off into its own thread so that it gets indexed in the MOC index. Both the mechanicals and the aesthetics are great. On second though, maybe wait until you are finished, then post a new thread.

[Imagineer23]

I'm also trying to use an XL motor (Works with Emerald Night) for my 4-6-0 steam locomotive.