Need some help on a new Layout

[dundarach]

Looks good, any any layout is better than no layout....

Take a look at my Brickshelf http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=492641 to see how mine has developed.

The only thing I would add, is that at first I built maximum track, however actually have less is more....

[zephyr1934]

Only issue with the points switch and loop back is when i am running 9V which will be for a while until I get DCC sorted (if I do) i will have a short I think, unless I misunderstand your idea?

You could isolate both rails on the tracks leading in to the yard (for a completely reversible solution I've used a double layer of plastic packing tape stuck to itself and cut to size and stuck in the joint where two segments come together) and then use either one or two polarity switches with a pair of track connector wires to swap the yard polarity. Though you might have to use multiple power drops in the yard to get power everywhere. You would just have to stop while on the turn around track, swap polarity, then continue.

[kieran]

Looks good, any any layout is better than no layout....

Take a look at my Brickshelf http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=492641 to see how mine has developed.

The only thing I would add, is that at first I built maximum track, however actually have less is more....

is that for more play space? My goal is total automation in the long run, I really like watching and building displays that take care of them self, that said there will always be the need to play as well

[alainneke]

You could isolate both rails on the tracks leading in to the yard (for a completely reversible solution I've used a double layer of plastic packing tape stuck to itself and cut to size and stuck in the joint where two segments come together) and then use either one or two polarity switches with a pair of track connector wires to swap the yard polarity. Though you might have to use multiple power drops in the yard to get power everywhere. You would just have to stop while on the turn around track, swap polarity, then continue.

For a pure LEGO solution, you can also use flextrack

@kieran: DCC (with 2 rails) won't solve the issues with tracks looping and short circuits, so you still need to think of something to detect approaching trains and reversing polarity accordingly. DCC trains will however continue to move in the same direction when you reverse polarity

Edited January 17, 2014 by alainneke

[kieran]

Thanks for the tip on the dcc, did not clock that

[kieran]

Small update,

I have the deck done for the main table, laid out in base board dimensions. I laid the Track for the outer loop just to test things out

this was last night, I have since added a few shelves and the inner main loop. Custom switch track is not to connect up the 2 loops and a few more lengths of 9V to complete the sidings.

Only issue is that the deck of the table acts as a drum making running very loud, not sure this will get any better with baseboarded tracks, plus I don't have any where near enough for the base boards I will need. I think a fabric covering will bridge the gap any recommendations?

[kieran]

I Managed to get the first 2 switches cut to make a cross over, works really well thanks for all the input on this

[pacc]

Since this thread contains some information on modded switches I just wanted to add a link to the (deleted) cuusoo project, before tlg changed the rules...

http://web.archive.org/web/20130514125637/http://lego.cuusoo.com/ideas/view/24159

[Lazarus]

Very nice room and woodwork would love a space like that. Really nice wood work you have skills.

[kieran]

Very nice room and woodwork would love a space like that. Really nice wood work you have skills.

Thanks. I will get an update shot later this weekend, my order of 9v straights has arrived so can complete the basic track bed

[kieran]

A few changes, I have been working on this for a while, just which I had more time. Anyway, I have taken the advice and tried to get a reversing loop sported, I think was really needed, but I have an issue that I can't quite connect the track, I don't have an issue modifying tack as you can see in other areas but just wanted to check I am not missing something here

[MusicaRibelle]

This is one of those times when flex track comes handy :)

[kieran]

This is one of those times when flex track comes handy :)

Thats what i did in the end, just looks odd, wrong colour and no metal rails, but it is working for the time being, thanks for the idea.

[kieran]

Version 3 of the layout, I have moved the points on the inner loop at the top left, this was to allow better control of the passing loop

Edited July 14, 2014 by kieran

[Exa]

Has anyone tried both ways to cut switch point ? I wonder if one way is better than the other one... The first one is much more simple. The second one need much more work, does it worth ?

[Redimus]

If you're 9v-ing, that return loop is a bad idea (at least according to every 9v era instruction manual).

[Exa]

I use PF trains so my question is about a mecanical point of view.

Witch cutout is better for (low noise, better guidance) ?

or

[stevecockrill]

Hi Exa:

I made the modification in the bottom picture. I definitely would not describe it as needing lots of work - a sharp utility knife and a plate or brick as a cutting guide is all it takes. The 2x4 bley plate to anchor the cut is key. Mechanically that helps for perfect alignment.

Steve

Edited December 22, 2014 by stevecockrill

[Exa]

Thank you stevecockrill. I will try first to cut a rail before a switch.

[kieran]

Did you ever get the switches done?

[Exa]

Still not. I got a 7996 (Train Rail Crossing) witch does the job. But I am always working on a better layout so, one day, I will do this cutout... I got less time for Lego those month.

[jrathfon]

I have done the top cut, where you just cut the curve end straight off. If you ballast and level your track there is no issue lining these up. I would say if you aren't anchoring to base plates, there can be some shift keeping two opposing switches together.

The cut off end from one switch can be used for a turn out end on the opposite switch. I would say this is the biggest advantage over the first technique versus the split cut 2nd technique.

The big advantage of the 2nd technique is you can use a 2x4 plate to anchor two switches in a cross over.

I would say the 1rst technique is likely a LOT easier to do the cutting (one straight cut). I used a fine toothed hobby saw and a mitre box and it took seconds. I was surprised, I did like 8 switches in 30 minutes. Cutting in between tracks would prove difficult in terms of clearance with a saw, I believe.

[MusicaRibelle]

I second that.

I used the second technique, and while it makes it easier to connect strongly the two sides, it requires more work and more precision work.

Follow technique #1.

[Exa]

Thank you MusicaRibelle.

I have done the top cut, where you just cut the curve end straight off. If you ballast and level your track there is no issue lining these up. I would say if you aren't anchoring to base plates, there can be some shift keeping two opposing switches together.

The cut off end from one switch can be used for a turn out end on the opposite switch. I would say this is the biggest advantage over the first technique versus the split cut 2nd technique.

The big advantage of the 2nd technique is you can use a 2x4 plate to anchor two switches in a cross over.

I would say the 1rst technique is likely a LOT easier to do the cutting (one straight cut). I used a fine toothed hobby saw and a mitre box and it took seconds. I was surprised, I did like 8 switches in 30 minutes. Cutting in between tracks would prove difficult in terms of clearance with a saw, I believe.

Thank you so much. Very clear. :)

[Exa]

I just finished do it now. 15 min to cut the 4 pieces, very easy. But 4 hours to make them fit perfectly. Pictures are not the best but it's now over midnight and I'am tired.

Edited March 3, 2015 by Exa