The very first Train MOC I did was a very small 0-4-0 Pannier Tank engine with Power Functions. It's ok, but fitting PF into it kinda threw the proportions off a bit, so I wanted to do a proper one which looked a bit more realistic in shape. So I set to work on one which was, and built it from the various different colour pieces I had, before placing an order for the parts in needed in specific colours. However, I couldn't decide on which colour scheme to have it in, whether to have the top half of it in Black or Dark Red. Eventually, I decided to do two of them, one in each colour.

After placing nine Bricklink orders and an order with Big Ben Bricks in America for his Medium Driver wheels, I received all the orders this week, and built them both over the past couple of evenings.

The Dark Red one has PF integrated into it, while the Black one can fit PF but doesn't yet have it, instead having brick-built 'placeholders' for the PF gubbins.

I'm also waiting on a custom order from America for 13-long connecting rods, which should finish them off nicely. If anyone on here is in the UK, they will be on display (along with my other train MOCs) at the Bradford Brick Show on 8th/9th Feb, and at the Yorkshire Brick Show on 22nd/23rd Feb.

So without further ado, to the pictures. Can you spot the differences?

Very nice job! Also good use of the BBB medium wheels!

I like the red one best!

I'd prefer a model with a normal boiler the front 1/3'rd.

Not the one you recrated though - nicely done.

Looking good, with some great details (I particularly like the dark red one)

Thanks!

zephyr1934, now you can see the trains which will use the custom rods I've ordered

pacc, I loosely based them on these:

Although they're probably a touch too long and the wheels are a bit too small, but it's the best I can do really, within the constraints of LEGO and putting PF into them.

You did a good job capturing the look of the prototypes

I really like these engines - that's a nice touch, that the dark red one uses golden bars. Just one question: are the bricks between the wheels of any importance, e.g. to cover the battery box, because that makes them look a little bit boxy-shaped.

I think the length is no problem, just the cab seems to be a little to small, and the dark red looks a little bit to light on the bictures, despite that they look very nicely, especially that you managed to fit pf in there

The 1x2 bricks between the wheels are mainly to cover the hole in the motor and the holes in the technic brick/joins between the technic brick and the motor. I tried it without them when I had the rough build, and I can't quite decide whether to keep them or not. I'm fairly certain I'll remove the one right at the front, because that really doesn't look right, but I can't think of any other way to cover the holes.

Once I get the connecting rods, that might help to take the focus away from the holes and I might remove them then. We'll see. I do what what you mean about the bottom half looking 'boxy' though.

I have to say though, that I never thought at any point that the cab looks too small. Even looking at them now, I don't see it myself. Oh and I'm not an expert in photography, so for some reason the Dark Red always looks lighter than it is...

Edited January 11, 201411 yr by Paperballpark

Nice trains, I agree they are a bit long, but as you say getting all the PF stuff in is tricky and sometimes compromises have to be made. Good job though, should look good with custome rods on them.

In my opinion the cab entry is one stud too small and the front of the cab as well, maybe it's only me though, but maybe that's why the engine looks to long as too?! Could you show us some pictures of the inside, e.g. how the motor works, and how you covered it?

Edit: I've also looked up some other Lego models of this engine, including mine, and they all have the cab as long as I suggested.

Edited January 11, 201411 yr by ScotNick

Yeah I'll post some photos of the Dark Red one partially disassembled.

I think I could re-work the bit in front of the front wheels, and the bit between the front and middle wheels, but the bit between the middle and back wheels is the motor, and there's nothing else I can think of which would cover the hole and still allow clearance for the connecting rod. Any ideas would be gratefully appreciated!

Could you post links to the models you've found?

I've uploaded pics of it partially disassembled to my flickr, so hopefully you can see how it's done. Let me know if you have any queries.

You should also be able to see in the last photo the issue I have with covering the motor between the wheels - there's basically nothing to attach anything onto!

Edited January 11, 201411 yr by Paperballpark

You could replace the broken up lightsaber wand rails with the long rigid rails (p/n 75c16). Don't know if they make them in gold though.

You could use that piece as a brake, as I tried out just now --> http://www.bricklink...167&colorID=115

Tryout:

Frankly it isn't available in black, but maybe gold would fit for your red version (although this may look a little too much gold).

But I think if you just leave it uncovered, you won't see it very much and it will certainly look better, than with that covering, at least in my opinion.

Edited January 11, 201411 yr by ScotNick

Yeah I'll try a few different things when I get the connecting rods, which should be around the end of this month.

For some reason I couldn't reply to your message, but as you'll have seen, how I've done the motor is quite different to the example you found. It's a very interesting idea and good for getting the wheels closer together, but I'm not sure how on earth the motor could be hidden!

EDIT: You've given me an idea with that piece between the wheels. I've just checked, and the hole fits a stud quite sturdily, which should be enough to put something in the gap and fill it a bit without it just being a block. Thanks! I'll have a play around with that tomorrow.

Edited January 11, 201411 yr by Paperballpark

Yeah I'll try a few different things when I get the connecting rods, which should be around the end of this month.

For some reason I couldn't reply to your message, but as you'll have seen, how I've done the motor is quite different to the example you found. It's a very interesting idea and good for getting the wheels closer together, but I'm not sure how on earth the motor could be hidden!

EDIT: You've given me an idea with that piece between the wheels. I've just checked, and the hole fits a stud quite sturdily, which should be enough to put something in the gap and fill it a bit without it just being a block. Thanks! I'll have a play around with that tomorrow.

Sorry, I just don't get what you mean with "getting the wheels closer together" . These are BBB XL drivers, that's why they are that close, I just took that pic myself .

Sorry, I was talking about the mail message you sent me on here, with this link, showing a way of using a different motor to get the wheels closer together than mine are. I wasn't meaning your photo that you posted above.

Edited January 11, 201411 yr by Paperballpark

Oh, I deleted that message (because of that I didn't know what you meant with message), as I thought you were using that method, but then realized you where using a normal train motor.

And here the links:

http://www.flickr.co...rix/5146516568/

http://www.flickr.co...ing/8768990689/

http://www.flickr.co...N07/8885162871/

Edit: found another engine.

Edited January 12, 201411 yr by ScotNick

Ok thanks, I do see what you mean now, but I think there's an important difference between those ones and mine. That is, they've not tried to fit PF into theirs. To be honest I think my trains are long enough as it is - I'm not going to make them any longer.

Yes they're not perfect, but I've said there's had to be compromises in order to fit PF in, and I think that's just going to have to be one of them.

Wow, both the red and black version look great, and thanks for showing off their real world inspiration.

Just a question about the wheels, someone said they're BBB? Are those from Lego, or does BBB mean Big Ben's? Have people had good experiences using custom wheels like those?

Just a question about the wheels, someone said they're BBB? Are those from Lego, or does BBB mean Big Ben's? Have people had good experiences using custom wheels like those?

Yep BBB stands for Big Ben's Bricks. They are pretty much the best accepted third party part in LEGO model railroading. Almost everybody except the ultra pure use them, and they work well. They come in a range of colours and sizes, so you should find something suitable for most prototypes. Since he has been selling them there isn't really much need for any other wheels. I've ordered a few lots now and never had any trouble either with the order and delivery or the wheels themselves.

If I had to make a criticism it would be the colour matching, the red ones are just slightly darker and less glossy than LEGO, but it really is a fairly slight difference, and not enough for me to be upset about. It isn't any worse than the variation with some original LEGO colours like dark purple or tan.

Edited January 13, 201411 yr by peterab

Yep BBB stands for Big Ben's Bricks. They are pretty much the best accepted third party part in LEGO model railroading.

I'm going to go check them out, and I'm really glad to hear you're happy with almost every aspect of BBB. Thanks a lot!

Having just put batteries in the battery box of the Dark Red engine, I have discovered that Big Ben medium driver wheels do not have very good grip. Especially when one of the motor axles has blind drivers on it (so it can go around corners), and the battery box sits directly over that axle and the only non-driven axle.

Seriously, it spins the wheels when setting off - even without any wagons - and can't move at all if it has more than two wagons attached. Does anyone know if the Lego rubber bands fit around the Big Ben medium driver wheels?

EDIT: To be clear, it's very likely my design which means it's not got enough traction.

Edited January 16, 201411 yr by Paperballpark

I think I could re-work the bit in front of the front wheels, and the bit between the front and middle wheels, but the bit between the middle and back wheels is the motor, and there's nothing else I can think of which would cover the hole and still allow clearance for the connecting rod. Any ideas would be gratefully appreciated!

You've given me an idea with that piece between the wheels. I've just checked, and the hole fits a stud quite sturdily, which should be enough to put something in the gap and fill it a bit without it just being a block. Thanks! I'll have a play around with that tomorrow.

I don't think the holes look too bad, real steam engines typically have holes all the way through the frame. There are all sorts of grebling you could stuff in the holes. The hard part to my eye is that gray brick with pins. Looks like it was never made in black, but a pair of used 1x2 with pin bricks in black can be had for a few pennies.

Having just put batteries in the battery box of the Dark Red engine, I have discovered that Big Ben medium driver wheels do not have very good grip. Especially when one of the motor axles has blind drivers on it (so it can go around corners), and the battery box sits directly over that axle and the only non-driven axle.

Seriously, it spins the wheels when setting off - even without any wagons - and can't move at all if it has more than two wagons attached. Does anyone know if the Lego rubber bands fit around the Big Ben medium driver wheels?

EDIT: To be clear, it's very likely my design which means it's not got enough traction.

The stock wheels will not take a rubber band, but a few people have cut a groove into them for that purpose. Unfortunately I could not turn up a link quickly. If I stumble over it I'll post more (or perhaps someone else will beat me to it)

I'm going to see if I can find some normal small, flat, black rubber bands that will fit around them. I may be able to find some, but I'm not really wanting to cut grooves into the wheels (and don't have tools to do that anyway).