Hero Factory Packaging

[Bob C]

Does anyone know why LEGO switched to bags for HF sets? Despite many fans whining about it they have been really tenacious and have not changed the design. Is it because of environmental/cost concerns or is there something else behind it?

[Mesonak]

The reasoning that I've heard is that the change to less expensive bags instead of plastic canisters allowed for more pieces to be included in each set. I think that's more than a fair trade; as much as I loved the canisters, I prefer more complex sets to more complex packaging.

[Zenerius]

I had mixed thoughts about the packaging when it was first introduced in Breakout. I had the Dropship set, so it was kind of disappointing that they weren't compatible anymore. Also, I was sad when villains were not boxed anymore, because having the villains larger and more complex than the heroes was kind of the standard until Breakout. But, I have gotten over the changed packaging because it wasn't a very big deal. Like Mesonak said, I like my sets more intricate than the packaging. Then again, larger villains would be cool to have again.

Edited January 12, 2014 by Zenerius

[vexorian]

I hate Canisters, they are terrible for the environment. Most countries in the world don't really have recycling facilities that accept them.

Bags are slightly better but still problematic. I couldn't find where to recycle them either.

LEGO must move to boxes.

[Zenerius]

I hate Canisters, they are terrible for the environment. Most countries in the world don't really have recycling facilities that accept them.

Bags are slightly better but still problematic. I couldn't find where to recycle them either.

LEGO must move to boxes.

Out with the bags, and in with the boxes! Well, the bags are more space efficient, not to mention reusable. Boxes would be nice, though.

[DraikNova]

I prefer the bags (over both boxes and canisters). They take up less space than canisters or boxes and they just look neater. And if LEGO´s going to continue this years awesome box bag art, then I definitely want to be able to keep the packaging.

[Aanchir]

I'm fond of the resealable bags. They perform the same storage and presentation functions as canisters or boxes, but they can also collapse to the size of whatever is inside them, and collapse completely flat when they're empty. So they don't take up nearly as much space as rigid canisters did.

I think there were a number of reasons why the sets switched to bags instead of canisters. For one, it's more cost-efficient, since bags require less volume of materials and weigh less when it comes time for distribution. Labels also can be printed directly on the package rather than needing stickers to be applied. They can be either hung on a rack or arranged on a shelf, depending on what kind of space a store has available, and with bags, multiple sizes of sets can use more or less the same style of packaging, varying only in size. And they cannot be broken into without visibly mutilating the package. That's in addition to all the benefits they offer for the end-user as far as storage is concerned.

The main advantage canisters had that bags lacked is that a canister could be designed for use as additional building and play materials. The LEGO Group has done a lot to take advantage of this over the years.

• The Slizer/Throwbots sets' canisters were not only storage for the sets and collectibles, but they also could play the role of the characters' spaceships, and could be attached to a belt for ease of carrying (bit of an odd feature; don't know how many kids took advantage of that).
  
• The RoboRider canister lids had a Technic pin hole so they could be used as wheels on combi models.
  
• The canisters for the old Racers impulse sets could unfold to become launchers.
  
• The Toa Mata canisters from BIONICLE resembled the canisters the Toa arrived in, and the lids could act as the Suva shrines where they stored the masks they weren't wearing.
  
• 2001 "Dinosaurs" sets had lids that could be used as a rocky base for building, similar to the later Barraki canisters.
  
• The Bohrok and Bohrok-Kal canisters resembled the nests that the Bohrok emerged from, and included pieces to hang the rolled-up figure from the canister lid. The back sticker could be removed, after which the front sticker served as a decorative backdrop to what was now a mini display case.
  
• The Toa Nuva canisters performed no story or play function, but the lids still had connections for collectible storage or use as building elements.
  
• The Rahkshi and Kraata canisters had connection points for the collectible Kraata slugs, and the Kraata canisters also had a pin hole so they could be used as building elements.
  
• The Toa Metru canister lids had a connection point for a single Kanoka disk and a pin hole so they could act as building elements. Two Toa Metru canister lids could be combined into a Matoran stasis pod.
  
• Vahki canister lids had space for a single Kanoka disk, though it was not a rigid connection.
  
• Knights' Kingdom canisters from 2004 and 2005 were designed to resemble castle towers, and had spaces to rest System plates.
  
• Toa Hordika, Toa Hagah, and Visorak canisters had storage for Rhotuka spinners
  
• Piraka and Toa Inika canister lids featured a "try me" feature for the light-up elements and storage for Zamor spheres.
  
• Toa Mahri and Phantoka "frames" could act as scenery. The Toa Mahri ones had connection points for collectible storage or building.
  
• Hero Factory canisters could be carried and deployed as Hero Pods by the Drop Ship set.

Most canisters were also designed to be stackable, something that can't be said for the new bags. Then again, this is mostly a shelf display issue, not a storage issue, since the end user doesn't have to worry about whether the bags are neatly arranged for storage purposes.

Overall, the benefits to the end user and the huge number of canisters taking up space between my bed and window have together helped convince me that the switch to bags was a worthwhile decision.

[Fikko3107]

^@Aanchir; I have some Knight's Kingdom II canisters from the second year, and I remember they stack, but did they fit plates? Did you mean the LEGO logo at the top? In my memory it does look like they could fit a 4x4 plate. Also, those canisters, if I remembered correctly, has holes that fits lightsaber rods, horn pieces and other similar bar connections.

In my personal, rather selfish, anti-environmentalist opinion, I love canisters and hate bags. I'm sorry, but most of the few bionicle sets I own comes in canisters-my Bohroks, my Gali Nuva and my Toa Inikas. And I really hate the fact that It's so hard to open bags without mangling them or ruining the top of the artwork. I remember that the Inika packagings were canisters with stickers sealing the top and the bottom halves. What I had done was cut through the stickers to open the canister. The art more-or-less re-aligns when you put the top back. But with bags,

how should I open it? Chop off the top? Create a precise incision? Because I really want to preserve the great artwork at the top of the Invasion from Below sets...

[Lyichir]

^@Aanchir; I have some Knight's Kingdom II canisters from the second year, and I remember they stack, but did they fit plates? Did you mean the LEGO logo at the top? In my memory it does look like they could fit a 4x4 plate. Also, those canisters, if I remembered correctly, has holes that fits lightsaber rods, horn pieces and other similar bar connections.

In my personal, rather selfish, anti-environmentalist opinion, I love canisters and hate bags. I'm sorry, but most of the few bionicle sets I own comes in canisters-my Bohroks, my Gali Nuva and my Toa Inikas. And I really hate the fact that It's so hard to open bags without mangling them or ruining the top of the artwork. I remember that the Inika packagings were canisters with stickers sealing the top and the bottom halves. What I had done was cut through the stickers to open the canister. The art more-or-less re-aligns when you put the top back. But with bags,

how should I open it? Chop off the top? Create a precise incision? Because I really want to preserve the great artwork at the top of the Invasion from Below sets...

What Aanchir and I do is carefully run a blade (often a pair of scissors) along one side of the top of the bag. If you do it right it lets you open the resealable top without separating the top section altogether.

[ShadowWolfHount]

If i'm right about this, they change it to bags because it's a lot cheaper then canisters plus i do like the bags because it's a lot easier to put in to different places and you use them to hold your LEGO Parts.

[Fikko3107]

What Aanchir and I do is carefully run a blade (often a pair of scissors) along one side of the top of the bag. If you do it right it lets you open the resealable top without separating the top section altogether.

So you somehow cut through the back of the bag but managed to leave the front unscathed? ...Or you cut through the middle of the top of the bag, but not to the point of severing the top thus more-or-less preserving the artwork? I had sort of tried the latter, and my first attempt (2013 Rocka) failed pretty miserably. My second attempt with Scarox worked out much better. It's still pretty bloody difficult, though. Thanks, anyways!

[Leewan]

So you somehow cut through the back of the bag but managed to leave the front unscathed?

That's how I do, I keep the bags, so I like to have the front as "clean" as possible. I have a craft knife I use to cut the back of the bag, right above the zip. It's not easy, if you press too hard, you also cut the front.

Edited January 13, 2014 by Leewan

[ZORK64]

That's how I do, I keep the bags, so I like to have the front as "clean" as possible. I have a craft knife I use to cut the back of the bag, right above the zip. It's not easy, if you press too hard, you also cut the front.

I actually do the same thing.

[Aanchir]

That's how I do, I keep the bags, so I like to have the front as "clean" as possible. I have a craft knife I use to cut the back of the bag, right above the zip. It's not easy, if you press too hard, you also cut the front.

That's the same as what I do as well. Though I find that if you use something less sharp than a craft knife (scissors are good, particularly grade-school "safety scissors") it's easier to cut through just the back surface, even if you have to run the scissors across a few times to get a clean cut.

[Fikko3107]

That's the same as what I do as well. Though I find that if you use something less sharp than a craft knife (scissors are good, particularly grade-school "safety scissors") it's easier to cut through just the back surface, even if you have to run the scissors across a few times to get a clean cut.

Consider me enlightened. Now for some practice. But how..? Well, it gives me reason to buy me some 2014 sets!

[Leewan]

That's the same as what I do as well. Though I find that if you use something less sharp than a craft knife (scissors are good, particularly grade-school "safety scissors") it's easier to cut through just the back surface, even if you have to run the scissors across a few times to get a clean cut.

Thanks for the tip, I will try when I get my next set (certainly Jaw Beast).