It's been a while since I've been "in the loop" unfortunately living in Canada has its disadvantages, one being that you cannot find a single soul to talk about lego 12V trains with.

I've built some decent sized layouts. Right now, I have a pair of layouts that appear to be connected but aren't. They share the 7866 level cross-over track, but never actually connect via track.

I've got a couple of questions. Right now, I have 3 motors, and 3 trains, and two Transformers (I also have an Austrailian one if anyone wants to buy it, I have no idea where to get a converter for it!!?!?). I have somewhere in the neighbourhood of 9 switches, unfortunately only two or three that have power to them.

I'm wondering:

1.) Can I use multiple transformer on shared track - I'm assuming no?

2.) Specific instructions to boost power to the tracks, I once had a huge layout and so many issues with trains slowing down because of the shear length of the thing. What's safe, obviously these motors are getting harder and harder to come by, so I don't want to damage one. I use 110 -> 220 inverters for both Transformers.

In Summary:

"Mono" means one, and "rail" means rail: This concludes your monorail training. Thanks all!

HI

I have a sizeable 12V layout too and I know that over a certain size everything slows down.

No, as far as I know, you cannot use multiple transformers on the one track.

I think the problem with large layouts is that the slight resistance at every track join adds up until the trains run slowly the further the train is from the power connection. The solution to this is to connect your transformer normally then run another pair of wires from your transformer to the far side of track circle and connect them there. Of course you have to avoid short circuits, for example the wire that is connected to your transformer and to the 'outer' rail must be connected to the outer rail at the far point..

I run a mixture of trains on my layout, 4.5, 9 and 12V and have never had a motor failure and the guide I use is ensuring that a motor is never asked to do more than Lego expected and no insane speeds.

John

you can isolate two track sections, but adding two transformers to the same track isn't a problem actually. compare it to putting two batteries parallel, you will just get more amperage, no more voltage (don't put them in series though, then you will get 12 + 12 = 24 V). Extra wires is of course also an option, this helps because the middle rail gives some resistance.

you can isolate two track sections, but adding two transformers to the same track isn't a problem actually. compare it to putting two batteries parallel, you will just get more amperage, no more voltage (don't put them in series though, then you will get 12 + 12 = 24 V). Extra wires is of course also an option, this helps because the middle rail gives some resistance.

When you do the extra wires, just plug them into the current wires coming out of the Transformer, and enure that you match them positive and negative and extend to a far away portion of track??

Have two transformers and one track, you're suggesting, that I can actually do this? What if I accidentally (wouldn't be very hard) put one transformer in reverse while the other is going forward - wouldn't I have issues??

In parallel would be transformer 1: connection to track, transformer 2: connection to track, series would be Transformer to transformer then to track??

One last question: What on earth is that 13+ Volts outlet for anyhow??

When you do the extra wires, just plug them into the current wires coming out of the Transformer, and enure that you match them positive and negative and extend to a far away portion of track??

Have two transformers and one track, you're suggesting, that I can actually do this? What if I accidentally (wouldn't be very hard) put one transformer in reverse while the other is going forward - wouldn't I have issues??

In parallel would be transformer 1: connection to track, transformer 2: connection to track, series would be Transformer to transformer then to track??

One last question: What on earth is that 13+ Volts outlet for anyhow??

Yes, just plug the extra wires into the same transformer. These 12v-transformers are very robust and can handle short-circuiting (are maybe even electronically protected). Extra wires from the same transformer is a much better solution than using multiple transformer on the same piece of track.

Another solution is to electronically divide the track by cutting the conductors and add a transformer to each electronically isolated piece. You can then for example run at different current (and directions!) for example for adding power on an incline, see example in this thread

Our LUG used 3 9V train transformers per loop. There were 2 loops. We were, however, using the track to power IR receivers, not to power the train motors directly.

I have a large layout myself and I adopted two solutions. The first is to improve the flow of the electrical signal with the extra wires from the areas that should be well-fed to peripheral areas.

The second solution is to split the layout into small areas managed by different transformers; to isolate parts of the circuit I use two tracks from the set signal post 7860 to interrupt the electric poles positive and negative.

Here you can find some pictures more clearly than many words

Edited January 24, 201411 yr by LEGO Train 12 Volts

When you do the extra wires, just plug them into the current wires coming out of the Transformer, and enure that you match them positive and negative and extend to a far away portion of track??

Have two transformers and one track, you're suggesting, that I can actually do this? What if I accidentally (wouldn't be very hard) put one transformer in reverse while the other is going forward - wouldn't I have issues??

In parallel would be transformer 1: connection to track, transformer 2: connection to track, series would be Transformer to transformer then to track??

One last question: What on earth is that 13+ Volts outlet for anyhow??

That is possible indeed. The best way is to isolate the sections, so that you can also make some adjustments. It would be a good idea to put a signal in the in-between section. Also check the principle of a reversing loop: the two by two front / back pickups might be an issue and you can avert that using this construction:

http://members.home.nl/john.hielema/train_depot/reverse2.htm

I have a large layout myself and I adopted two solutions. The first is to improve the flow of the electrical signal with the extra wires from the areas that should be well-fed to peripheral areas... http://www.brickshel.../12volt-520.jpg ...

This is effective too...

I have a large layout myself and I adopted two solutions. The first is to improve the flow of the electrical signal with the extra wires from the areas that should be well-fed to peripheral areas.

The second solution is to split the layout into small areas managed by different transformers; to isolate parts of the circuit I use two tracks from the set signal post 7860 to interrupt the electric poles positive and negative.

Here you can find some pictures more clearly than many words

Would like to know how many straight/curved/ you are running for this setup.

Also my guess is you've added 12V motors to Emerald night?

For the first question you can find the answer in this picture:

For the second question I have adapted the Emerald Night to 12 volts system with a solution that pick up electric signal with the tender, convert it to 9 volts and power the PF motor of the locomotive