Efferman's Custom Parts

[efferman]

have you a link to how this works?

[SNIPE]

if its still strong enough sure you can make small engagements to save plastic.

Im sure that an offset stud will work however there will need to be a cutout on the hole

so if a stud were in the clutch it would fill that cutout however the cutout is only small and doesn't effect the axle movement.

I have made an alightment jig with lego and it should work, the space between the inner of the hole and the outer edge of the lift-arm is the same height as 1 stud (((Not 1 plate))))

Edited March 9, 2014 by SNIPE

[efferman]

reduced to a minimum it makes 21 cents difference. funny, now you say the stud shuold between two holes, at last time under the holes.

snipego 4x1 lowweigth von efferman auf Flickr

this happens when the stud is under the hole

complikation von efferman auf Flickr

Edited March 9, 2014 by efferman

[SNIPE]

Yeah I mean the normal clutches then the offset clutches too, the studs are still in between the holes though that should save more cost but I fear it.

When I place a studless beam on the lip of a studded beam and line the studs up with the holes it allows for an axle/pin to still go through, the axle may be pushed up very slightly but isn't tight

if it still doesnt work maybe we can add a tiny bit more thickness to the lift arms but still make them comparable with the technic system, reason it should work is because there is a tiny gap between two stud-less beams if connected by the holes to pins/axles

Edited March 9, 2014 by SNIPE

[Dafgek81]

Can you make a truck rim like the one you made for the 8110 size rims and make them for a truck like the 8285 towtruck from TLC????

[efferman]

snipe, the version i have uploaded is the only possible.

dafgek, the one for 62x20 tires which are posted on page 12 doesnt work?

a part for bodywork. a corner for round panels. interested for upload or any changes?

ecke stoßstange von efferman auf Flickr

Edited March 9, 2014 by efferman

[timslegos]

I would LOVE that piece!

tim

[efferman]

the part is uploaded

panel corner

[timslegos]

How well would the blue and red match up with current Lego colors?

tim

[efferman]

i dont have ordered this colours, so i dont know how good they match.

edit, how about a panel like the curved 3x2x11 panels but in 5x3x5 ?

Edited March 9, 2014 by efferman

[DrJB]

the part is uploaded

panel corner

Amazing what 3D printing can do ... that panel would be near-impossible to make by conventional molding methods ...

One small suggestion: Might be worthwhile to make the studs hollow (not full) as in the studded Technic beams. There will be some minimum cost saving, but more importantly, the hollow studs will deform 'elastically' when assembled while, the full studs, may take plastic deformation and loose grip forever.

Edited March 10, 2014 by DrJB

[efferman]

the studs are hollow, only the 3x1 has full studs

useful part?

[Zerobricks]

They look like great parts for wings, maybe you could make them wider :)

[efferman]

simple solution

[SNIPE]

The studs are sort of hollow to a point, but not all the way through.

The only solution I can see for my beam idea is to make the studs very slightly shorter then it will work fine, since the clutches are round they will have lots of gripping power anyhow, kinda like putting a stud in a pinhole.

My idea of thickening the beams slightly will probably effect the alignment of the pin holes eventually when used with lego bricks that are equal to 3 plates tall.

The reason I like the idea of stacking beams like this is because it saves a lot of space when building and they can still be spaced out using plates of half/full beams in between the beams, putting a bean upside down also has advantages, and it is still the same thickness from the hole

Edited March 10, 2014 by SNIPE

[Cumulonimbus]

simple solution

I like the idea, but I'm not quite sure how more than 2 of these would be mounted to the existing panels due to the maximum pin connector length of 3L. Axle holes might make it possible to connect several on a long axle, but how would it then connect to the pin holes of the existing panels? Alternatively, two extra holes might help.

[efferman]

My thought was a 5 long panel, then a bridge part, and again a 5 long. This would give enough flexibility.

[Leewan]

Interesting idea. I started to work on a 5x11x2 curved panel some weeks ago :

[efferman]

Looks good, which program are you using?

[Leewan]

CATIA, it's the program we work with at my school.

[Milan]

Two heads are smarter than one!

[efferman]

How complex is it to use?

[Leewan]

Two heads are smarter than one!

Well, efferman was posting his panels designs, so I thought it was a good occasion for me to show what I had in mind. x)

How complex is it to use?

Since I don't use Inventor, I can't compare both, but I would say it's rather easy. If you want an example, I started to use it in September 2012, and I designed these parts around October 2012. But there are so many possibilities that I'm still learning some of them (we are for example currently studying the parameters function, which could be used in this case to give my panel the dimensions I want and corresponding number of holes just by modifying several input values), and I think it would take years to totally master that beast. But we are only designing our own Lego parts, so we only need the basics. And since you already use Inventor, and knowing that it took me only a few weeks to make my Hero Factory / CCBS parts, I don't think it should be too hard for you to handle it.

Edited March 10, 2014 by Leewan

[efferman]

I think cad programs are like tetris. Easy to understand, hard to master.

I have the inventor now for 4 months, and no teacher, so i think i have many things to learn.

[Leewan]

Yeah, it's hard to learn to master such a thing without someone to show you how to do. x/

But you're doing quite well with Inventor, judging by what I've seen in this topic.

Edited March 10, 2014 by Leewan