rm8 Posted April 9, 2014 Posted April 9, 2014 (edited) pleas look here the McPherson part. you need the dark grey wheelholder part of 42000 steering hub, the outside and the spring of a big shock absorber to complete it it should work, but i give no guarantee till i have built the 3 pin part Dont know the strength of plastic they use, but I thing ball for joint for arm is the weakest point of this cool part. May be is better to make pin hole or axle hole for original LEGO axle/pin ball joint? And axle hole for steering arm should can be placed higher. This is just my thoughts.. Effe, could you make small racing wheel (43 mm) with "normal" universal car design for sportcars, offroaders and trucks (not for front loader) and "right offset" for 6 pinhole and axle mounting. Thanks. Guys, did someone received something except wheel covers? I want to know rigidity of material. Shipping to Russia is slow and expensive, so I want to make big order, but dont know how useful this first versions of parts, especilall functionally (not decorative). Edited April 9, 2014 by rm8 Quote
efferman Posted April 9, 2014 Author Posted April 9, 2014 (edited) racing wheel small replacements will be done to the mc pherson part, i have tried it with a pinhole, but this would end in a conflict between pin and the dark bluish gray wheelholder. and i think this should be stable enough the pin arms to the top and bottom balls at this part are longer and they are really strong enough edit: egor, the offset of the racing wheel small replacement, can not be much bigger when the 42000 steering hub is used. a half stud more and suspension parts can collide with the rim. i will do the maximum with the new 42021 suspension arms Edited April 9, 2014 by efferman Quote
rm8 Posted April 9, 2014 Posted April 9, 2014 Thank you. Cant wait to order and make review of "custom parts by Effe" :) Quote
efferman Posted April 9, 2014 Author Posted April 9, 2014 (edited) first a 6 spoke rim with zero offset. this results in attachment points exaktly in center of the rim. and the truck rim in racing wheel small size. same offset Edited April 9, 2014 by efferman Quote
rm8 Posted April 9, 2014 Posted April 9, 2014 (edited) Should I choose polished plastic for functional parts like cv joints, steering arms, or it does not play role (from the point of friction)? Or grainy is functionally the same? to narrow so it needs some tweaking What do you mean narrow? Can I buy it, or it is raw? Edited April 9, 2014 by rm8 Quote
efferman Posted April 9, 2014 Author Posted April 9, 2014 (edited) The surface is even with the polished option a little bit grainy. So you can choose the cheaper option. Pin holes have to cleaned with a 4,8mm drill and crossaxle holes are a little bit gambling. Sometimes they fit, sometimes the need some pressure to fit the axle in. Turntables need some rotations under pressure to spin smooth. And if rims are stable enough i can say in some days. I have ordered two of the unimog rims. Edit A newer version of this part is uploaded, but i will again take look that it is solid enough if you want order a bigger amount of it. Please send me a pm with all the parts you want buy and i will tak a look of all. Edited April 9, 2014 by efferman Quote
efferman Posted April 11, 2014 Author Posted April 11, 2014 not sure if this would work but i have designed a counterpart for the lego wormgear theoretical with this, a 32m crossaxle and a lot of wormgears a very long actuator should be possible. any ideas to improve it? Quote
ritztoys Posted April 11, 2014 Posted April 11, 2014 Looks like a very useful part, what are the dimensions? This might fit inside a 2-stud wide space? Thanks efferman Quote
efferman Posted April 11, 2014 Author Posted April 11, 2014 the dimensions are 2x2x3 studs. the gap between two sides is one stud so a beam fits inside. but this part is really experimental and iam not sure if the wormgear works proper with it. Quote
Bob De Quatre Posted April 11, 2014 Posted April 11, 2014 not sure if this would work but i have designed a counterpart for the lego wormgear theoretical with this, a 32m crossaxle and a lot of wormgears a very long actuator should be possible. any ideas to improve it? I'm not sure if it's possible, but a 4 studs long version could work with 2 linked crossaxles (with a 59443 or 6538), so you could have an even longer actuator since it won't be limited by the length of the crossaxle. Quote
ritztoys Posted April 11, 2014 Posted April 11, 2014 Please keep us builders updated on this part, would make boom extensions in cranes easier. Quote
efferman Posted April 11, 2014 Author Posted April 11, 2014 (edited) when i make a new order it will be part of it. actually i am waiting for two orders in height of 90 euros (including shipping) bob, 4 studs long to jump over the two studs long gap of a crossaxle connector? Edited April 11, 2014 by efferman Quote
Bob De Quatre Posted April 11, 2014 Posted April 11, 2014 bob, 4 studs long to jump over the two studs long gap of a crossaxle connector? Yes exactly... But I found out that the axle connectors are wider than the thinner part of the worm gear Quote
efferman Posted April 11, 2014 Author Posted April 11, 2014 a beam with a integrated 4L gear rack. fits to 8 and 24 tooth gears Quote
Boxerlego Posted April 11, 2014 Posted April 11, 2014 I like the gear rack, maybe the liftarm could also be longer and have the gear rack centered on the liftarm. Quote
efferman Posted April 11, 2014 Author Posted April 11, 2014 (edited) Like the 7 and 13L gear rack? Edited April 11, 2014 by efferman Quote
efferman Posted April 11, 2014 Author Posted April 11, 2014 (edited) No problem edit: done, gearrack 7L for 8 tooth gears Edited April 11, 2014 by efferman Quote
Boxerlego Posted April 11, 2014 Posted April 11, 2014 The gearrack is on the wrong side of the lift arm. It should be on top. Quote
Technyk32231 Posted April 12, 2014 Posted April 12, 2014 The gearrack is on the wrong side of the lift arm. It should be on top. I don't understand. Any side can really be the top. Quote
dhc6twinotter Posted April 12, 2014 Posted April 12, 2014 Efferman, you're doing an excellent job designing these. TLG should hire you as a parts designer. Quote
efferman Posted April 12, 2014 Author Posted April 12, 2014 (edited) thanks daniel do you want the pinholes at the end of the rack on the side and not on top? edit: is it this what you want? Edited April 12, 2014 by efferman Quote
Hrafn Posted April 12, 2014 Posted April 12, 2014 thanks daniel do you want the pinholes at the end of the rack on the side and not on top? edit: is it this what you want? This looks great, but I'm a little worried that the material is too thin where the trough between two teeth is right above the axle hole. Quote
Boxerlego Posted April 12, 2014 Posted April 12, 2014 Nice work! I must say that the gearack is one of those tough parts to make because of the tolerances required on it. There is tons of potential behind a liftarm gearacks. Watch this video on the programmable drummer and think about using liftarm gear racks on it instead of the current studded method as was used. Quote
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