Jump to content
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS! ×
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

pleas look here

the McPherson part. you need the dark grey wheelholder part of 42000 steering hub, the outside and the spring of a big shock absorber to complete it

674x501_1847585_2512620_1396956371.jpg

it should work, but i give no guarantee till i have built the 3 pin part

Dont know the strength of plastic they use, but I thing ball for joint for arm is the weakest point of this cool part. May be is better to make pin hole or axle hole for original LEGO axle/pin ball joint? And axle hole for steering arm should can be placed higher.

This is just my thoughts..

Effe, could you make small racing wheel (43 mm) with "normal" universal car design for sportcars, offroaders and trucks (not for front loader) and "right offset" for 6 pinhole and axle mounting. Thanks.

Guys, did someone received something except wheel covers? I want to know rigidity of material. Shipping to Russia is slow and expensive, so I want to make big order, but dont know how useful this first versions of parts, especilall functionally (not decorative).

Edited by rm8
  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted (edited)

racing wheel small replacements will be done

to the mc pherson part, i have tried it with a pinhole, but this would end in a conflict between pin and the dark bluish gray wheelholder. and i think this should be stable enough

13737828803_0efe260b75_z.jpg

the pin arms to the top and bottom balls at this part are longer and they are really strong enough

13192694763_a8ccab8549_z.jpg

edit:

egor, the offset of the racing wheel small replacement, can not be much bigger when the 42000 steering hub is used. a half stud more and suspension parts can collide with the rim. i will do the maximum with the new 42021 suspension arms

Edited by efferman
Posted (edited)

Should I choose polished plastic for functional parts like cv joints, steering arms, or it does not play role (from the point of friction)? Or grainy is functionally the same?

to narrow so it needs some tweaking

13598071485_0489086681.jpg

What do you mean narrow? Can I buy it, or it is raw?

Edited by rm8
Posted (edited)

The surface is even with the polished option a little bit grainy. So you can choose the cheaper option. Pin holes have to cleaned with a 4,8mm drill and crossaxle holes are a little bit gambling. Sometimes they fit, sometimes the need some pressure to fit the axle in.

Turntables need some rotations under pressure to spin smooth. And if rims are stable enough i can say in some days. I have ordered two of the unimog rims.

Edit

A newer version of this part is uploaded, but i will again take look that it is solid enough if you want order a bigger amount of it.

Please send me a pm with all the parts you want buy and i will tak a look of all.

Edited by efferman
Posted

the dimensions are 2x2x3 studs. the gap between two sides is one stud so a beam fits inside. but this part is really experimental and iam not sure if the wormgear works proper with it.

Posted

not sure if this would work but i have designed a counterpart for the lego wormgear

theoretical with this, a 32m crossaxle and a lot of wormgears a very long actuator should be possible. any ideas to improve it?

I'm not sure if it's possible, but a 4 studs long version could work with 2 linked crossaxles (with a 59443 or 6538), so you could have an even longer actuator since it won't be limited by the length of the crossaxle.

Posted (edited)

when i make a new order it will be part of it. actually i am waiting for two orders in height of 90 euros (including shipping)

bob, 4 studs long to jump over the two studs long gap of a crossaxle connector?

Edited by efferman
Posted (edited)

thanks daniel

do you want the pinholes at the end of the rack on the side and not on top?

edit:

is it this what you want?

674x501_1858452_2535307_1397295833.jpg

Edited by efferman
Posted

thanks daniel

do you want the pinholes at the end of the rack on the side and not on top?

edit:

is it this what you want?

674x501_1858452_2535307_1397295833.jpg

This looks great, but I'm a little worried that the material is too thin where the trough between two teeth is right above the axle hole.

Posted

Nice work! I must say that the gearack is one of those tough parts to make because of the tolerances required on it. There is tons of potential behind a liftarm gearacks. Watch this video on the programmable drummer and think about using liftarm gear racks on it instead of the current studded method as was used.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

Announcements

  • THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

×
×
  • Create New...