Efferman's Custom Parts

[D3K]

I agree, that a new air tank should only have one input/output, as two just take up more space, and aren't really needed.. The two in-/outputs on the current LEGO airtank is actually quite annoying when you try to fit it into a compact MOC, and you need to route an extra tube back to the system to close it off (or you could ofcourse tie a knot on the tubing, stick something into the hole, melt the superflous output to seal it, etc)

[efferman]

only one connector for hoses? no problem

[captainmib]

Please explain to me the purpose of the new gears you are designing? Why the 9 teeth etc?

What can these what other gears can't do at this moment (apart from gearbox design, with the clutchgears...)

Apart from those, nice work on all the partdesign. I don't need any, since I have enough from standard parts atm, but i like what you are doing here.

[efferman]

the 9 teeth was an accident . someone wanted a 10 tooth gear and i made an error in calculating the circumference and 10 teeths were to tight together and 9 fit perfect. so i made its counterpart too. only for the clutch version it was to small.

[DrJB]

only one connector for hoses? no problem

Agree that only one connector is needed ... unless you want to put water in it and wash it ... for whatever crazy reason.

[Lipko]

Agree that only one connector is needed ... unless you want to put water in it and wash it ... for whatever crazy reason.

There is some reason why air tanks has more than one ports. In fact, most standard (manufactured for standard pneumatic purposes) air tanks has 3 ports. 2 at both ends and one on the cylindrical surface. I'm no expert, I admit, but I do work with pneumatics day-by-day, and if the tank is used as a buffer, a rule of thumb is that the input port is at one end, the output port is at the other, and if we have to measure the pressure inside the tank, we use the middle port. I don't know the theory behind it, maybe the 3 ports are there only for practical topological reasons.

I guess for a Lego model, you don't need to be so sophisticated.

Edited April 25, 2014 by Lipko

[Pat-Ard]

@Lipko: Yes, and what about a permanent running pump. In this case you need an outtake. I think there's no other way than having two ports. But I'm not an expert.

[Lipko]

@Lipko: Yes, and what about a permanent running pump. In this case you need an outtake. I think there's no other way than having two ports. But I'm not an expert.

You don't need two ports for that. You just need a T pipe before the port. But let's not derail the thread this much. Sorry to chip in.

[Pat-Ard]

OK, makes sense - as said. I'm not an expert...

[Splat]

I thought the spacing between axles (in units of M) corresponds always to an integer number of teeth. In the above case, the distance between the 13 and 18 teeth (assuming you meant them to mesh together) will be (13+18)/2 = 15.5 ... and that is not an integer.

i take a sheet of paper, draw a distance and a gear with lego compatible teeth in a wanted number. then i draw ithe counterpart in a try and error method till the teeth fit together. but if you think a 18/13 combination doesnt work proper i will take a look again.

Further to this, for the gears to be able to be added side by side in a single liftarm (that is, not diagonally), the calculation of (Gear1 + Gear2) / 2 should always be divisible by 8.

Some examples:

(8 + 8) / 2 = 8

(8 + 24) / 2 = 16

(12 + 20) / 2 = 16

(16 + 16) / 2 = 16

(8 + 40) / 2 = 24

(12 + 36) / 2 = 24

(24 + 24) / 2 = 24

(24 + 40) / 2 = 32

(40 + 40) / 2 = 40

This also works for small and large turntables:

(20 + 28) / 2 = 24

(8 + 56) / 2 = 32

(24 + 56) / 2 = 40

(40 + 56) / 2 = 48

All of the above are existing Lego gears. If you want to create new gears that mesh with each other, just follow the same calculation:

(10 + 22) / 2 = 16

(11 + 21) / 2 = 16

(13 + 19) / 2 = 16

(14 + 18) / 2 = 16

(15 + 17) / 2 = 16

etc...

If you divide the result by 8, that tells you how many holes their centers are apart:

8 = one hole apart

16 = two holes apart

24 = three holes apart

etc...

I hope that helps.

@efferman - While I am more of a purist and wouldn't get any of these custom parts, it is still interesting to see all of the designs that you are coming up with.

[efferman]

Splat, thank you very much, this will help a lot.

[Cumulonimbus]

Hi Efferman, if you need another challenge after all the requests, I would like to see a disk brake for the current motorbike wheels. In my opinion they can be 1/2 stud wide and have a hole pattern layout which could be useful for other applications. I'm not sure about the diameter as front brake disks tend to be much bigger than rear disks. Maybe a good compromise is possible.

An added bonus would a calliper that fits around the disk, but I guess this would only a non-functional, decorative part.

[efferman]

a working disk break?

[Cumulonimbus]

a working disk break?

Not necessarily, I would be happy with cosmetic parts. Unless you have ideas ....

[efferman]

the portal hubs are finally arrived

first a picture of the angled camber part. can be used at straight axles too. the coral red fits proper to the red 2L axle

.

and the complete portal hub. the six hole piece which holds the rim has to be a bit more in diameter. actually there is some slack to the portal piece.

the difference between my portalhub and the lego portal hub. the center of the u-joint is one stud more next to the rim.

and the difference between racing wheel small, 8110 hub and my unimog rim and my portalhub. now the difference is two studs.

Edited April 29, 2014 by efferman

[Pat-Ard]

Hi efferman,

the portal looks great, when will you show us a complete axle?

Pat

[efferman]

i will start it today

edit:

please look here

edit²

cumulonimbus, is it this what you search for?

brakedisk von efferman auf Flickr

Edited April 29, 2014 by efferman

[Milan]

Great stuff here!

It would be cool if you (effe) could make a topic with the list of all the (physically) produced parts that are made after your designs.

[efferman]

Thanks for your praise, is an edit of the first post not enough for this?

[allanp]

Maybe, but I click on the latest post so I presume many others might as well, and therefore not see the first post, unless you make a little comment in your latest post to say you've updated the first post.

Edited April 29, 2014 by allanp

[stefan_betula_pendula]

I have waited all the time for some pictures of your new portal hub. The new axle looks great and placing the Universal Joint two studs more to the rim is really an improvement! Will there be any disadvantages when using the parts of the portal hub with the "slight grainy feel" (e.g. friction)?

[efferman]

as allways had to clean the holes so there is no grainy surface in the holes. with good cleaned holes is the friction low

[Cumulonimbus]

i will start it today

edit:

please look here

edit²

cumulonimbus, is it this what you search for?

brakedisk von efferman auf Flickr

Looks nice, but somehow it doesn't feel 'motorbiky' yet. I think it is the sizes of the holes and the shape of the spokes inside. On one hand the extra functionality of the big holes is cool, but it make the disk less realistic.

Are there opportunities to reduce the size of the holes (for example minifig hand size) and still combine other functions in this part? Maybe others here have ideas?

Modern disk brakes haves so-called floating disks, which allow for limited sideways movement, These can be recognised by the bushings between the actual disk and the spokes. I have no idea if this is doable in the printed parts, but if they are, maybe these could be functional and the holes in the disk just decorative ... just thinking aloud here.

The calliper has a nice mounting point. Does the other side show the round shape of the clinders? Similar to this:

You must be getting tired from my requests, but I wonder if there is a market here for a good motorbike mud guard (can you guess my current MOC yet?)

Edited April 29, 2014 by Cumulonimbus

[efferman]

no, the surface of the caliper is clean. i will take a look at the design of the disk and the caliper, but actually i have to build with real bricks

[Cumulonimbus]

Good idea, building in real life with actual bricks is always the most rewarding according to me. Have fun!