efferman Posted November 8, 2014 Author Posted November 8, 2014 I see no problem when iam at home again. Quote
Blakbird Posted November 26, 2014 Posted November 26, 2014 I purchased the XL linear actuator and have been playing with it. First off, it took a LOT of sanding before I could get it to work. There was some dust in the threads that needed to be removed (no problem), but also the threads were too tight and would not go together. I removed some outer diameter of the male threads with 80 grit sandpaper, then I filed the thread flanks with a tapered file until everything moved smoothly. I also had to enlarge the axle holes which were too tight to get an axle through. Now that the actuator is working, I have some questions. The design came with 2 different ring gears. One of them seems to be too big and doesn't fit. Why are there 2? The clutch seems very tight and I can't get it to slip before a motor stalls. I know you mentioned that the original clutch was too loose. I really like this actuator and am looking forward to integrating it into a model. I also purchased the Countach wheel covers which look amazing on my Countach. Quote
efferman Posted November 26, 2014 Author Posted November 26, 2014 Hi Blakbird, the smaller teethring is indeed the clutch and it slips only when the actuator is retracting. The other teethring eliminates the clutch function. I have made this to give the owner the choice to make what he want. Your needed work to make it work smooth makes me really sceptic about the printing process. every time the result is different. Can you please make a picture from the countach with its rimcovers? Quote
Blakbird Posted November 26, 2014 Posted November 26, 2014 Hi Blakbird, the smaller teethring is indeed the clutch and it slips only when the actuator is retracting. The other teethring eliminates the clutch function. I have made this to give the owner the choice to make what he want. OK, I guess the other ring fits so tight that I can't install it. Because all of my dimensions seemed to be large, that is probably why I can't even get the smaller ring to slip. Your needed work to make it work smooth makes me really sceptic about the printing process. every time the result is different. The tolerances on 3D printing are still not very good, so it is not too surprising that each result is different. Can you please make a picture from the countach with its rimcovers? I will try to remember to take a picture tonight. Quote
efferman Posted December 17, 2014 Author Posted December 17, 2014 i have made a new part. It is a Adaptor to mount a rc rim on the lego 3 pin mount system. The Hexagon for the rc rim has a width of 12mm. If someone has rims with a bigger Hexagon, please take a calliper and call me its dimensions. To secure the rim on the adaptor is a 4mm screw with hexagon head necessary. Quote
ben20 Posted December 26, 2014 Posted December 26, 2014 Is there news about your latest turntable version 3, does it work? Quote
efferman Posted December 26, 2014 Author Posted December 26, 2014 I had not the time to test it till now. Next days i think Quote
Richard Dower Posted December 27, 2014 Posted December 27, 2014 did you have a chance to design that 4L version of part #6558? Quote
Useless User Posted December 27, 2014 Posted December 27, 2014 I just got into LEGO Technic this Christmas via my two sons, but, since I teach product development, I'd like to chip in here and suggest you also try https://materialise-onsite.com/ which provides a wide quality material selection and good pricing policies for rapid prototyping of detailed pieces such as yours. The service is available multilingual. In any case, great dedication and work shown here - good luck! Quote
fresko Posted December 27, 2014 Posted December 27, 2014 @Efferman: I don't know if it is asked before, but I would really like a modified version of this part. Instead of a 2L axle, I would rather have a 3L axle. This would come in handy while making small suspension set-ups (like Piterx did on his Fiat Panda), so the wheel doesn't slide easly off the axle. Thanks in advance, Fresko Efferman, didn't you noticed my question? Is it possible to make de .STL file? Quote
efferman Posted December 28, 2014 Author Posted December 28, 2014 (edited) useless user, thanks for this info, i will try it. the transparent parts are looking interresting Fresko, here it is edit: Ben20, it works, but be sure the driving gear is supported properly Edited December 28, 2014 by efferman Quote
efferman Posted December 31, 2014 Author Posted December 31, 2014 i have made new fake engine parts the complete V6, is with triangles at his ends 6 studs long, and the crankshaft plates makes a displacement of 120 degrees. is there an interrest in V8, V10 and V12? Quote
Zerobricks Posted December 31, 2014 Posted December 31, 2014 Why not an X configuration with thinner cams? Quote
efferman Posted December 31, 2014 Author Posted December 31, 2014 (edited) which vehicle has a X engine? Edited December 31, 2014 by efferman Quote
Tommy Styrvoky Posted December 31, 2014 Posted December 31, 2014 (edited) looks like a useful part, I would say there would be a need for a V8 engine or even something along the lines of a 6 or 8 cylinder radial engine would be useful, as lego cylinders are bulky at that size. Another interesting concept would be a W16 engine. Edited December 31, 2014 by Tommy Styrvoky Quote
Epic Technic Posted January 1, 2015 Posted January 1, 2015 which vehicle has a X engine? Some older styled planes have radial engines. Quote
Zerobricks Posted January 1, 2015 Posted January 1, 2015 which vehicle has a X engine? Hmm yeah... Not many these days... W is a more popular choice. Quote
drakmin Posted January 1, 2015 Posted January 1, 2015 is there an interrest in V8, V10 and V12? Maybe make those "cylinder housings" separate single parts so user can build the engine to have any cylinder amount? Quote
Richard Dower Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 Efferman...thanks for doing that 4L pin. I was wondering if you could design a pin/connector to hold a 7mm ribbed hose? http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?catType=P&catString=522 Looking for a pin like this: But with a cut out in the round pinhole are...so as you could push in a 7mm hose and basically the pin connector is being used to hold 7mm hoses in place and as a cable guide. I guess the area where the hose will fit would have to be 8mm or something? This pic will give you an idea of what i am thinking about: Quote
efferman Posted January 5, 2015 Author Posted January 5, 2015 no, the diameter would be 9mm. for what you would need this? Quote
Ploki Posted January 5, 2015 Posted January 5, 2015 wow that new engine blocks look great. however, am I seeing things right or is the only possible configuration V (on the last stackable video)? I love to make boxers with lego engines. Not too popular as far as I searched this forum. Quote
efferman Posted January 5, 2015 Author Posted January 5, 2015 for boxers you can use the lego piece Quote
Richard Dower Posted January 5, 2015 Posted January 5, 2015 no, the diameter would be 9mm. for what you would need this? To hold 7mm ribbed tubes in place, and to be able to route cables etc. 9mm would be fine. Quote
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