MRP_ Posted August 30, 2016 Posted August 30, 2016 wow, you must be working in quite a large scale! Quote
efferman Posted August 31, 2016 Author Posted August 31, 2016 Hi efferman I am building a Land-Rover Series IIa (a copy of my real life car). For that project I need some leaf springs that should be larger. The Land-Rover has different sizes front and back. For my project I need two springs 13 L and two springs 19 L. I would love to get your design in those sizes. :-) Best regards Per Møller Olsen, Denmark Welcome on eurobricks. do you need them fast or can it wait two weeks? i have a exhibition on 10.9 -11.9 2016 and i want to bild a xerion saddletrac for this exhibition Quote
Dafgek81 Posted September 7, 2016 Posted September 7, 2016 Hi Efferman, Finally I have ordered the clamshell buckets last night. Will be getting them on October 3rd or 4th. Quote
Dafgek81 Posted September 14, 2016 Posted September 14, 2016 (edited) Got the buckets yesterday, they are great, nice work Effe!!!! When I find the leaking pneumatic switch, I will post some pics. Thanks for the design!!!! Now home, leak found, pics taken. Have to wait till Brickshelf clears them. Edited September 14, 2016 by Dafgek81 Quote
benzin Posted October 25, 2016 Posted October 25, 2016 (edited) EDIT Update 80% finished, only pictures for strong Liebherr R 944-956-960 turntable. 4 SLS Laser parts, lot of M2 screws and thin section bearing (expensive ;) Gear 8z/56z What do you think or opinion ? Edited November 8, 2016 by benzin Quote
Buddy010702 Posted November 2, 2016 Posted November 2, 2016 So as a back story, for the next few months I will have access to a 3d printer, and was thinking of designing some wheel covers for Lego wheels. But I was wondering, from people who have designed many parts before. How do you go about designing some, from somebody who has never used software like this before Are there measurements in the software that relate to real life? How difficult is it to design it? How long does it take? Are there any tutorials for Lego specifically? How strong are they? How easily can they be painted? Even if you can only answer a few, it would be nice to know, beforehand Quote
efferman Posted November 2, 2016 Author Posted November 2, 2016 First rule at beginning, keep it simple and learn the softwarefunctions. Then search for a original which is possible to create. Can i ask which type of printer do you will use? Quote
Buddy010702 Posted November 2, 2016 Posted November 2, 2016 I believe that it's a maker printer, nothing too special. What software do you suggest, I assume the one you use? Quote
efferman Posted November 2, 2016 Author Posted November 2, 2016 The one i am using is a proffesional software which costsa few thousands of dollars. But when you are a student you can get a school licence of autodesk inventor Quote
Buddy010702 Posted November 2, 2016 Posted November 2, 2016 Ok, thank you, I'll try to get autodesk inventor. Thank you! If I make anything, I'll post it here. Quote
twistyrp Posted November 30, 2016 Posted November 30, 2016 Efferman, do you think you could send us a link to the stl files for the 3rd edition turntable? Quote
efferman Posted December 1, 2016 Author Posted December 1, 2016 Please give a link to the turntable to be sure we talk about the same turntable Quote
twistyrp Posted December 1, 2016 Posted December 1, 2016 http://www.shapeways.com/product/EJHBY3GJN/heavy-duty-turntable-rev-3?optionId=43254901&li=user-profile Also, using a formlabs form 2 printer I was able to print the first turntable you made without having to do any sanding!! Quote
Richard Dower Posted December 5, 2016 Posted December 5, 2016 (edited) Efferman, is it possible to create this part with a 45 Degree angle, and one with like a cross shape -0- and T shape? https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=10197#T=C Edited December 5, 2016 by Richard Dower Quote
Richard Dower Posted December 16, 2016 Posted December 16, 2016 Effer...someone bought some parts and did a video review: Quote
efferman Posted December 16, 2016 Author Posted December 16, 2016 many thanks for posting. it seems the small drven steering hub needs some tuning Quote
Milan Posted December 16, 2016 Posted December 16, 2016 Nice presentation, Richard! Thanks! That small diff has always been so appealing to me! Maybe one day I will cross to the dark side and take one (or ten) of them. Quote
oracid Posted January 21, 2017 Posted January 21, 2017 I have purchased for 8 "Wormgear Counterpart" , https://www.shapeways.com/product/WBXDZK8E7/wormgear-counterpart?optionId=43734647 This is a very good work. All fits very good. Thank you. Quote
Richard Dower Posted January 23, 2017 Posted January 23, 2017 On 16/12/2016 at 0:23 PM, efferman said: many thanks for posting. it seems the small drven steering hub needs some tuning he bought more parts and reviewed them: Quote
rocklego Posted January 23, 2017 Posted January 23, 2017 On 2017/1/21 at 2:29 PM, oracid said: I have purchased for 8 "Wormgear Counterpart" , https://www.shapeways.com/product/WBXDZK8E7/wormgear-counterpart?optionId=43734647 This is a very good work. All fits very good. Thank you. Does this wormgear counterpart work with Lego worm gears to perform linear movement ? Quote
Vectormatic Posted January 23, 2017 Posted January 23, 2017 Hey Efferman I was wondering, can you print axle and axle related parts with good enough precision? Ive been mulling over true boxer engines, and come to the conclusion that with a modified engine crank (the axle pin needs to be 1 stud long rather then 1.5) and a modified conrod (it needs some plastic taken away on one side to allow for it to fit into a smaller crank) you could build a 2 cilinder true boxer engine, with the cilinder offset half a stud. Add to that a custom 1.5 long axle and you can build arbitrary length boxer engines. I know i can build this by modifying existing parts (namely grinding off some bits of the crank and conrod parts), but custom prints parts would be nice too. Quote
efferman Posted January 23, 2017 Author Posted January 23, 2017 Cross axles are a big problem. The tolerance in printing is not good enough to fit crossaxle and printed part together in a safe connection. In your case i would prefer a one piece crankshaft and clip the piston rod on it. Quote
Vectormatic Posted January 23, 2017 Posted January 23, 2017 1 hour ago, efferman said: Cross axles are a big problem. The tolerance in printing is not good enough to fit crossaxle and printed part together in a safe connection. In your case i would prefer a one piece crankshaft and clip the piston rod on it. Hmm, i see, i might just go down the modifying real parts route then, considering a one piece crank (which in the end would still require either a cross axle, or a cross axle receptor) would pretty much limit me into specific single configurations in terms of cilinder count etc.. Bit of a bummer, but modifying existing parts was always going to be more cost effective, considering crank or con-rod pieces only cost a few cents each on BL. Quote
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