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Posted

Hi efferman

I am building a Land-Rover Series IIa (a copy of my real life car). For that project I need some leaf springs that should be larger. The Land-Rover has different sizes front and back. For my project I need two springs 13 L and two springs 19 L.

I would love to get your design in those sizes. :-)

Best regards

Per Møller Olsen, Denmark

Welcome on eurobricks. do you need them fast or can it wait two weeks? i have a exhibition on 10.9 -11.9 2016 and i want to bild a xerion saddletrac for this exhibition

Posted (edited)

Got the buckets yesterday, they are great, nice work Effe!!!!

When I find the leaking pneumatic switch, I will post some pics.

Thanks for the design!!!!

Now home, leak found, pics taken.

Have to wait till Brickshelf clears them.

Edited by Dafgek81
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

EDIT Update 80% finished, only pictures for strong Liebherr R 944-956-960 turntable.

4 SLS Laser parts, lot of M2 screws and thin section bearing (expensive ;)

Gear 8z/56z

001.jpg

002.jpg003.jpg

004.jpg

What do you think or opinion ?

Edited by benzin
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So as a back story, for the next few months I will have access to a 3d printer, and was thinking of designing some wheel covers for Lego wheels. But I was wondering, from people who have designed many parts before. How do you go about designing some, from somebody who has never used software like this before

 

Are there measurements in the software that relate to real life? How difficult is it to design it? How long does it take? Are there any tutorials for Lego specifically? How strong are they? How easily can they be painted? 

 

Even if you can only answer a few, it would be nice to know, beforehand 

Posted

First rule at beginning, keep it simple and learn the softwarefunctions. Then search for a original which is possible to create.  Can i ask which type of printer do you will use?

 

Posted

The one i am using is a proffesional software which costsa few thousands of dollars. But when you are a student you can get a school licence of autodesk inventor

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Nice presentation, Richard! Thanks!
That small diff has always been so appealing to me! Maybe one day I will cross to the dark side and take one (or ten) of them.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hey Efferman

I was wondering, can you print axle and axle related parts with good enough precision? Ive been mulling over true boxer engines, and come to the conclusion that with a modified engine crank (the axle pin needs to be 1 stud long rather then 1.5) and a modified conrod (it needs some plastic taken away on one side to allow for it to fit into a smaller crank) you could build a 2 cilinder true boxer engine, with the cilinder offset half a stud. Add to that a custom 1.5 long axle and you can build arbitrary length boxer engines.

I know i can build this by modifying existing parts (namely grinding off some bits of the crank and conrod parts), but custom prints parts would be nice too.

Posted

Cross axles are a big problem. The tolerance in printing is not good enough to fit crossaxle and printed part together in a safe connection. In your case i would prefer a one piece crankshaft and clip the piston rod on it.

Posted
1 hour ago, efferman said:

Cross axles are a big problem. The tolerance in printing is not good enough to fit crossaxle and printed part together in a safe connection. In your case i would prefer a one piece crankshaft and clip the piston rod on it.

Hmm, i see, i might just go down the modifying real parts route then, considering a one piece crank (which in the end would still require either a cross axle, or a cross axle receptor) would pretty much limit me into specific single configurations in terms of cilinder count etc..

 

Bit of a bummer, but modifying existing parts was always going to be more cost effective, considering crank or con-rod pieces only cost a few cents each on BL.

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