Efferman's Custom Parts

[efferman]

Type 3

and the .part files

V1 https://bricksafe.com/files/efferman/stud.io-parts/wormgear holder.part

V2 https://bricksafe.com/files/efferman/stud.io-parts/Wormgear v2(1).part

V3 https://bricksafe.com/files/efferman/stud.io-parts/wormgearholder v3.part

Edited March 11, 2021 by efferman

[efferman]

For my zetros and other projects without instruction

[Gray Gear]

Wow, what a beautiful axle. This is probably the only way to make a solid LEGO axle that is sturdy and does not look way too thick 

[efferman]

21 minutes ago, Gray Gear said:

LEGO axle that is sturdy and does not look way too thick

The actual axle is sturdy too, but under high stress like in the vid the planethub seems to move to the outside. To much play in all the pins.

 

Edited April 22, 2021 by efferman

[1gor]

Axle looks really sturdy with custom parts, but as you know (from my subjective experience) I prefer Lego parts.

[Mechbuilds]

Wow that axle looks amazing. Please add it to the axle collection thread.. How is the suspension attached to that axle?

[efferman]

1 hour ago, Mechbuilds said:

Please add it to the axle collection thread.

done

[gyenesvi]

7 hours ago, efferman said:

For my zetros and other projects without instruction

This is really good direction, I have been thinking lately that Lego is really missing some spacialized parts for building slim solid axles using these hubs. I guess one difficulty is making it flexible enough, for example to be applicable for various lengths. The above brick-built axle is also nice work, but has the same limitation unfortunately.

Have you also been thinking about specialized parts for a steered version? I mean, if you simply connect A-arms to the tow-balls, that already makes the axle 5 studs high. I've been wondering if that could be slimmed down to 3 studs.. Or at least trim 1 stud from the bottom for higher ground clearance..

[TeamThrifty]

I'm a fan and user of custom and 3rd party parts where they fill a gap in the standard offering... but this is virtually a full axle 3d printed, feels like its crossed the line from building something from parts (lego). But everyone's 'line' is in a different place!

[efferman]

On 4/23/2021 at 11:11 AM, TeamThrifty said:

feels like its crossed the line

yeah, it was to much. I decided to use something which is usable on steered axles too.

[SaperPL]

I feel like this may interest you efferman - I've designed a modular loader bucket for 3d printing, that doesn't need to be printed as a whole one big piece and has a feature of adjusting mounting points thanks to being modular.

It should be roughly the same size and clearances at the back as the volvo bucket as long as the studio model has reliable proportions.

 

I will be releasing the files for printing soon, but I need to figure out how to handle printing tolerances.

Maybe you could iterate more on this idea and make a definite finished product that is available for everyone at shapeways.

[efferman]

40 minutes ago, SaperPL said:

Maybe you could iterate more on this idea and make a definite finished product that is available for everyone at shapeways.

Sure! Seen this bucket on Youtube and it is a gorgeous idea.

[J159753]

Genius... TLG, are you paying attention?

[Milan]

Love it.

[Maaboo the Witch]

Woah, this thing looks awesome!

[Bartybum]

5 hours ago, J159753 said:

Genius... TLG, are you paying attention?

Too niche to be honest

[SaperPL]

13 hours ago, J159753 said:

Genius... TLG, are you paying attention?

 

7 hours ago, Bartybum said:

Too niche to be honest

That depends on how you look at it - If they would decide to make a bucket from actual technic panels, this could mean making panels with some unique angles that could be used elsewhere. Not exactly made like I did it, but consider panels that are matching the aesthetic of existing flat and curved panels. The only piece that would be somewhat unusable in every other build would be lower surface with teeth because it needs to be in one long piece and thin to not look completely bad, but I can see something like an open garbage container on a truck using it if they maybe decided to make it without the teeth but with a straight blade. The challange would be to design the sides and curved panels in a way that they are useful in other builds.

[efferman]

1 hour ago, SaperPL said:

it needs to be in one long piece

Are you sure? Maybe i find a way to make it in single pieces to allow a backhoe bucket.

[SaperPL]

The issue is that if you want to connect them side by side, then you find yourself in a place you need to make teeth big enough or the surface thick enough to fit some kind of connection mechanism, so you either end up with the surface that is supposed to be flat being 1L thick or you end up with a tooth being 2L wide and 1L tall. I thought about using the 3L Bars for connection, but with 3d printing I think they would be unreliable for firm grip of keeping the pieces between themselves.

[efferman]

Yeah to find a proper way will be hard.

 

[vascolp]

This is pretty cool! 

Considering that I don´t kow anything about 3D printing:

maybe you could do the parts uneven, each one with one tooth only, say on the left. And the right side would connect to the left side by some sliding mechanism (is this possible in 3D printing?). Then, the right side wall would have a tooth but the left side wall would not. Something like this:

 

 

 

[SaperPL]

29 minutes ago, vascolp said:

This is pretty cool! 

Considering that I don´t kow anything about 3D printing:

maybe you could do the parts uneven, each one with one tooth only, say on the left. And the right side would connect to the left side by some sliding mechanism (is this possible in 3D printing?). Then, the right side wall would have a tooth but the left side wall would not. Something like this:

The issue is that small structures made with 3d printing might be brittle depending on how the printing will go. We are operating at really small scale here in comparison to what people generally print in 3D when it comes to mechanical parts. The best way is to use existing lego pieces like pins and 3L bars because those are moulded and really rigid with some flexibility.

If you can fit the connection on one side, then the other is not a problem anymore and we could even have detachable teeth from such blade, but one way or another it's going further away from "the Lego way" of connecting things.

 

EDIT: Here are the STL files on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4839259 Note that this is designed with bridge overhang tolerances and needs to be printed in specific orientation for the pin sockets to fit nicely with the side panels.

Edited April 25, 2021 by SaperPL

[vascolp]

18 minutes ago, SaperPL said:

The issue is that small structures made with 3d printing might be brittle depending on how the printing will go. We are operating at really small scale here in comparison to what people generally print in 3D when it comes to mechanical parts. The best way is to use existing lego pieces like pins and 3L bars because those are moulded and really rigid with some flexibility.

If you can fit the connection on one side, then the other is not a problem anymore and we could even have detachable teeth from such blade, but one way or another it's going further away from "the Lego way" of connecting things.

Ok, I see what you mean. Looking again to your video I noticed what you said... you only "print holes" never pins.

Another picture: in red pin holes to connect to the back, two of them to keep in place. In green pin holes to connect to the sibling... maybe a bit bulky, but probably possible?

.Well... lunch time!  

Nice talk!

 

[SaperPL]

I get what you mean, but I think you don't get the issue here - the lower blade/panel of the loader bucket needs to be slim/thin/low if you want to pick up bricks or beans or whatever from the floor. If you make the room for pin sockets, you're going up from something like 3mm off the floor to 8~9 mm as the stud thickness is 8mm and you will have it a bit off the ground if you want to show off the teeth on the other side a bit. Take a look at how the side connection looks because I had to use axles there - even there I had to figure out a way to not make it bulky as both bottom and sides are supposed to be slim.

[efferman]

My attempt to connect the parts. The Block is 4mm wide and is behind the tooth. The left piece includes the tooth and the right piece will pushed from the back to the front and locked bei the Backwall pieces. When the right piece is on the outside it includes the wall.

Edited April 25, 2021 by efferman