I suggest you to try to implement frame 5 X 7 to make it simpler and sturdier 

To replace 92910 Technic Steering Ball Joint Large Open with C-Shape Pivot Frame ?
It's what I made first, but in my setup this axle is made to transfer speed, without much torque.
(it's used to drift )

Hi, I wish to ask you for help in my new project. I am trying to build solid and small floating front axle. Scale is quite small (1:23) so I came across many problems. I have cheked the whole thread, I also looks inspirations elsewere, but without success. Maybe some of you have some idea how to resolve this task. I appreciate all the help.

Goals:

- 9 studs wide (11 beetween edges of the wheels)

- 56 x 26 baloon tires are in use

- min 2 stud clearance

- steered

- floating solid axle (there is plan to use or shock absorbers or hose, soft axles)

- no differential

Some of my tries (prototypes) are visible below. But I am still not sure of them, one is quite flimsy (the first photo and the first on the left on second photo), otherone requires a lot of torque for drive (second photo, this one in the middle) or steering (second photo, the last one). After my tries I think that using of CV joints will be better that universal joint. It gives some relief (and better geometry) for steering due to lack of differential. For drive I think that combination of 12 and 20 tooth bevel gears will be good compromise between speed and torque (and it looks nice).

 

On last image first solution to the left is best compromise, other "hub" solutions tend to fall apart in outer direction...

19 minutes ago, I_Igor said:

On last image first solution to the left is best compromise, other "hub" solutions tend to fall apart in outer direction...

Maybe, but so far during tests they tend to be pretty solid. Unfortunately the first solution of the second photo has a lot of play between wheels and steering rack. Too much to accept it.                                                                                                                                 

Edited April 28, 20195 yr by keymaker

2 minutes ago, keymaker said:

Maybe, but so far during tests they tend to be pretty solid. Unfortunately the first solution of the second photo has a lot of play between wheels and steering rack. To much to accept it.                                                                                                                                 

It could be solved with using 3l liftarms that have axle hole at the end and thus part mounted just side by side if the wheel

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=27940&idColor=85#T=C&C=85

Hmm I am not sure what you mean. Could you explain more or show?

How about this?

 

 

@keymaker I meant exactly what @Zerobricks posted. Thanks @Zerobricks

Thanks @I_Igor and @Zerobricks. This solution is some sort similar to the middle on the second photo. I will try it out. One question, is there any reason for this black pins located into 7 stud liftarm? Some sort of limiters?

Edited April 28, 20195 yr by keymaker

7 minutes ago, keymaker said:

Thanks @I_Igor and @Zerobricks. This solution is some sort similar to the middle on on second photo. I will try it out. One question, is there any reason for this black pins located into 7 stud liftarm? Some sort of limiters?

No, I forgot to remove them.

@keymaker here is another design, if you want to check... 

 

Edited April 28, 20195 yr by sirslayer

@Zerobricks I have just built it. Solid idea, just like mine the middle one from second photo, but different steering mechanizm (but the same angle needed to perform full turn). Unfortunatelly it is impossible to build exactly like showed because thin L-shaped lifearm 3x3 blocks 12 tooth bevel gear.

 

@sirslayer Thank you for proposition, but it does not meet the goals of the project. It is too wide, it has the differential and it limits the clearance to only one stud.

Edited April 28, 20195 yr by keymaker

if you take out the diff and add a home made portal hub, it can meet your requirements. the pivot point is closer 1 L in length 

@sirslayer this part is a nice part, but I do not have an idea how to use it and still to keep the 2 stud clearance and steering possibility at the same time.

I know what you mean...  :) .. its 2 l clearence till 2 l from wheel... is the only down side 

the 49.5mm tire on the right side requires extra support 

Edited April 28, 20195 yr by sirslayer

@keymaker this is closer to your required  specs, this design requires a stabilizer front steering bar and rear steering bar not shown..   This gives you better steering angles (tighter turns).. its almost built the same from previous pictures. 

 

Edited April 28, 20195 yr by sirslayer

and believe it or not!!!  A llittle bit of negitive camber improves grip when cornering...  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camber_angle

I got it....  Using the Pin Connector 3L with 2 Pins and Center Hole, I think this design will fit the bill.. 

 

 

 

Ha! It looks like you have found the way to use this part and still meet the goals! :D This is something new compared to previous propositions, thank you, I will check it out today.

So I've noticed that this thread has a lot of live axles but what about indepedent pushrod, like F1 or IndyCar style. The 42000 had new suspensions but what the front like steered F1 style front suspension. I've tried but nothing seems to work right. 

Just realized I never shared the following images with the community.  These are the front and rear axles of one of my more recent rock bouncers.  As well as some of the installation images.

https://imgur.com/a/fgnDX

Here's an axle i made for my crawler:



Has extremely high steering angle and driven wheels. Works with @filsawgood's chassis design. 
The axle has minor bending (camber) if you put heavy load on top but it works and crawls respectably for it's size. 

EDIT:

Could somebody help me design a 13 stud wide axle that has a servo and XL motor mounted and as compact as possible. No suspension needed. Just drive and steer. 
It needs to fit under the mercedes arocs cabin. Under the cabin, it's 5 studs wide and 13 studs long space that can be utilized. 

Edited June 18, 20195 yr by Mechbuilds

On 4/28/2019 at 2:46 PM, keymaker said:

Hi, I wish to ask you for help in my new project. I am trying to build solid and small floating front axle. Scale is quite small (1:23) so I came across many problems. I have cheked the whole thread, I also looks inspirations elsewere, but without success. Maybe some of you have some idea how to resolve this task. I appreciate all the help.

Goals:

- 9 studs wide (11 beetween edges of the wheels)

- 56 x 26 baloon tires are in use

- min 2 stud clearance

- steered

- floating solid axle (there is plan to use or shock absorbers or hose, soft axles)

- no differential

Some of my tries (prototypes) are visible below. But I am still not sure of them, one is quite flimsy (the first photo and the first on the left on second photo), otherone requires a lot of torque for drive (second photo, this one in the middle) or steering (second photo, the last one). After my tries I think that using of CV joints will be better that universal joint. It gives some relief (and better geometry) for steering due to lack of differential. For drive I think that combination of 12 and 20 tooth bevel gears will be good compromise between speed and torque (and it looks nice).

Hi all,

i  like to introduce myself, I was a lego technic addict during my childhood in the 80s and 90s. Now since i am a father I could not resist to start building again...

i am working on a small solid driven steered axle myself. this is what i have so far. I do not own all the parts so a complete test was not possible. I still have no idea where to attach the springs (or more likely rubber bands)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5kqw7hfg8gr266h/frontwd.io?dl=0

Edited July 7, 20195 yr by dobob
added link to stud.io file