16 hours ago, Zerobricks said:

I think we'd first need some quality control selection. I'm afraid not all entires are structurally sound, especially digital-only ones.

i agree with this. We need to figure this thing out. And probably have an experienced builder do some quality control. 
Perhaps if this is too late already, make a completely new axle collection thread which just has pictures or links to axles we can build with information like width or size or what features they have. That way it would be very easy to search for something useful. 

Adding this concept of front axle around the piston engine at small scale:

 

7 hours ago, SaperPL said:

Adding this concept of front axle around the piston engine at small scale:

 

A little fragile but smart idea.

I've figured out how to handle this front engine steering:

https://media3.giphy.com/media/obMPW4avqCe6VV0QVv/source.gif

Hi guys I am looking for a tandem steered and driven set of axles that can be used as pendulumn suspension? Has anyone got any advice? Please I am desperate

I've managed to make a what might be the smallest steered live axle with a diff thats 13 studs wide including the wheels (9 between the wheels)

I named the video that to entice someone to proove me wrong on youtube.

is this the smallest axle thats been made? 

 

Edited February 24, 20223 yr by That_LEGO_Guy

4 hours ago, That_LEGO_Guy said:

I've managed to make a what might be the smallest steered live axle with a diff thats 13 studs wide including the wheels (9 between the wheels)

Hmm, that looks interesting, nice compact design with that asymmetric drivetrain. The suspension linkage is also a nice one. I wonder how the front wheel is driven, is there a CV-joint in there right next to the diff without any support for the axle in between them? In that case, is the CV-joint held in place by the framing around it and the wheel hub on the other end? The wheel mounting is also interesting how it fits into such a small rim! Do you have more close up pictures of it?

@gyenesviNothing slips past you, yes to everything, the wheel side of the cv goes through with https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=15461&idColor=11#T=C&C=11

Edited February 24, 20223 yr by That_LEGO_Guy
add img

@That_LEGO_Guywhat is the red part in the front suspension?

1 hour ago, That_LEGO_Guy said:

@gyenesviNothing slips past you, yes to everything, the wheel side of the cv goes through with https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=15461&idColor=11#T=C&C=11

Wow, that's a great part usage for the wheel hub, thanks! Also, the way that servo is squeezed in there :)

Does the drivetrain skip sometimes at the differential because of it only being supported by the surrounding frame and maybe allowing for some more space to move around? Or is it solid enough for this amount of power and weight?

@Hrafn 2x2 round tile with hole and has a stud-pin pushed stud first into it.

@gyenesvi Thanks, It does skip at the diff not helped by the servo steering a little further than the cv joints can. the 20z might need a better mounting but it still drives around with only frontwheel drive and double the weight with not too many clicks

I suggest you use the new diff and 12 tooth gear, since the new diff can't move sideways away from the gear.

Front axle for a model T style'd car. The springs can be changed into a leafspring. 
The sliding mechanism is there to give you more ground clearance. As the axle moves up, the triangulated control arms will slide back. 
The triangulation will keep the axle from moving sideways. 

Playing around with the springs will give you huge flex on the chassis. Sadly no drive in this axle. Only steered. 



EDIT: Use 7 long axle for the sliding part instead of 6 long axle. 

Edited March 7, 20223 yr by Mechbuilds

A heavy-duty dual planetary axle for Claas tyres. Shocks can be easily swapped out for softer or harder ones as needed.

 

@suffocation then you'll need some upgearing from motors like 40-24 tooth or 36-28 (at least) I you are not making some mud proof vehicle 

On 8/5/2022 at 11:26 AM, suffocation said:

A heavy-duty dual planetary axle for Claas tyres. Shocks can be easily swapped out for softer or harder ones as needed.

On 8/5/2022 at 12:43 PM, 1gor said:

@suffocation then you'll need some upgearing from motors like 40-24 tooth or 36-28 (at least) I you are not making some mud proof vehicle 

The axles themselves contain a 20:12 upgearing before the diff, which I find nice and may alleviate the speed problem. However, the way the 20T gear is fixed with those corner connectors does not seem stable for a heavy duty application. It doesn't really seem form-locked (close enough) agains separation from the 12T gear upwards, I think when pushed really hard it could crack. Though not sure how hard this will be pushed.

Inspired by Samolot's and Gerger's contributions, I tried to design a dual rear axle with drive, hard-coupled diff locks, independent suspension and planetary hubs, all squeezed into a 15-stud axle track. It's intended for 81x35 tractor tyres.

 

Here's an idea for an ungeared, yet strong axle I just came up with:

Basically it uses the new, strong CV joints inside the normal hubs for a direct transfer of power from the differential to the wheels. I think Ferrari's new differential would be the most suitable here. The axle can fit almost all wheels with exception of the Defender's rims. For that the steering arms have to be moved by a stud away.

this one is cool either (not my creation, unfortunately)...

it is not driven, but maybe it is good as inspiration.

I've been experimenting with compact, driven, and steered axles to suit the 56x26 Wrangler tires for a while now, and here is one of the final designs I came up with, as well as a 'matching' rear axle. Both are 4 link and use only heavy-duty cv joints. I built it into a chassis with an M motor for steering and L for drive and it has plenty of performance, suspension travel and a really decent steering angle.

 

1 hour ago, AutoBacon said:

I've been experimenting with compact, driven, and steered axles to suit the 56x26 Wrangler tires for a while now, and here is one of the final designs I came up with, as well as a 'matching' rear axle. Both are 4 link and use only heavy-duty cv joints. I built it into a chassis with an M motor for steering and L for drive and it has plenty of performance, suspension travel and a really decent steering angle.

 

 

 

What about differentials?

1 minute ago, howitzer said:

What about differentials?

I think, the purpose of such axles is off-road small-scale vehicles with motorization, and having differentials inside (that are quite hard to fit) will automatically require to fit also their locking function. For offroad chassis, I would get rid of them totally rather put but without lock possibility. The model is expected to be small and light, so a "permanent lock" is not an issue and won't cause any significant stress on flat surfaces.

30 minutes ago, Void_S said:

I think, the purpose of such axles is off-road small-scale vehicles with motorization, and having differentials inside (that are quite hard to fit) will automatically require to fit also their locking function. For offroad chassis, I would get rid of them totally rather put but without lock possibility. The model is expected to be small and light, so a "permanent lock" is not an issue and won't cause any significant stress on flat surfaces.

Yes, it's true that lack of a differential is generally not a problem but still it feels somehow wrong to see such a build without them...

Adding diff will also add one stud at least in each direction

2 hours ago, AutoBacon said:

I've been experimenting with compact, driven, and steered axles to suit the 56x26 Wrangler tires for a while now, and here is one of the final designs I came up with, as well as a 'matching' rear axle. Both are 4 link and use only heavy-duty cv joints. I built it into a chassis with an M motor for steering and L for drive and it has plenty of performance, suspension travel and a really decent steering angle.

This is pretty nice, I have been experimenting in this direction as well, with some similarities (like new CV joints and omitting the regular differential), but quite results different overall. Have you built a complete chassis around it with motorization, and a body on it? Because that's where it gets tough :) There's not much longitudinal space in the middle left, furthermore the new CV joints cannot pass between two L motors. Also your axles are quite high built, the front springs are very high positioned, so if you'd put the motors in the front, that will also be sitting quite high, and the bonnet will also have to be high. So curious how this becomes a complete car!

1 hour ago, howitzer said:

What about differentials?

34 minutes ago, Jurss said:

Adding diff will also add one stud at least in each direction

Well the good news is that @efferman's 2 module wide differentials perfectly fit these builds :) I have 3D printed 2 of them and I'm experimenting with incorporating into such axles. It has an accompanying 12T spur gear with a 2L axle printed together, and it's just the right length for the CV joint here on the incoming shaft side to fit nicely. There's one catch though. The axles that go out of the differential towards the wheels need to be on a half stud offset, because the tiny gears inside the diff are half stud inner than regularly. Because of this, it is hard to use with the new CV joints (2L axle is short, 2L is too long), but it works well with the old ones, because those have a 1.5 stud axle hole in them, so a 3L axle fits perfectly.