14 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

Well the good news is that

With that approach whole axle halfe the size can be printed.

4 minutes ago, Jurss said:

With that approach whole axle halfe the size can be printed.

It's not the same approach I believe. Only printing a diff (which could itself be an official lego part) still keeps the spirit of lego that you can combine stuff. Printing a whole axle looses some of the essence of lego.

18 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

This is pretty nice, I have been experimenting in this direction as well, with some similarities (like new CV joints and omitting the regular differential), but quite results different overall. Have you built a complete chassis around it with motorization, and a body on it? Because that's where it gets tough :) There's not much longitudinal space in the middle left, furthermore the new CV joints cannot pass between two L motors. Also your axles are quite high built, the front springs are very high positioned, so if you'd put the motors in the front, that will also be sitting quite high, and the bonnet will also have to be high. So curious how this becomes a complete car!

 

Yes, I did prototype a chassis :D It is quite compact and doesn't leave much room for a battery though. I imagine if this was a pickup truck, the battery could be mounted in the bed, or perhaps a Buwizz battery could fit lengthways along the length of the chassis. It is just about Wrangler sized (I think it's one stud longer), so that body could be plopped on top, but you are right, it might look like a bit of a monster truck due to the high shock mount position at the front, and there certainly wouldn't be room for a fake engine.

11 hours ago, AutoBacon said:

Yes, I did prototype a chassis :D It is quite compact and doesn't leave much room for a battery though. I imagine if this was a pickup truck, the battery could be mounted in the bed, or perhaps a Buwizz battery could fit lengthways along the length of the chassis. It is just about Wrangler sized (I think it's one stud longer), so that body could be plopped on top, but you are right, it might look like a bit of a monster truck due to the high shock mount position at the front, and there certainly wouldn't be room for a fake engine.

Thanks for the image. Yes, well, at this height it is certainly possible, but sure it will look like a monster truck :) Also, I like to keep the middle part free for minimal interior like seats. A pickup is a good idea, because those are generally longer, so it would be possible to rearrange things and put the motors in the middle section fairly low, and the battery can go in the bed. Still the front springs are the big limiting factor for the height.

One tip that came out of my experimentation: if the springs are mounted as they are on the front (but maybe lower), then you don't need 4 links, the upper 2 are not so important, since the spring holds the axle against rotation. On the other hand a panhard rod will be required to prevent sideways motion of the axle.

Edited November 24, 20222 yr by gyenesvi

On 11/24/2022 at 5:34 AM, AutoBacon said:

Yes, I did prototype a chassis :D It is quite compact and doesn't leave much room for a battery though. I imagine if this was a pickup truck, the battery could be mounted in the bed, or perhaps a Buwizz battery could fit lengthways along the length of the chassis. It is just about Wrangler sized (I think it's one stud longer), so that body could be plopped on top, but you are right, it might look like a bit of a monster truck due to the high shock mount position at the front, and there certainly wouldn't be room for a fake engine. 

Have you built it in real life? Because this part is a great one, but it cannot be used with 30mm new rims, it doesn't fit and even with standard 30mm rims, when put right next to it, it rubs, so some spacer is needed, so pivot point is getting worse.

21 minutes ago, keymaker said:

Have you built it in real life? Because this part is a great one, but it cannot be used with 30mm new rims, it doesn't fit and even with standard 30mm rims, when put right next to it, it rubs, so some spacer is needed, so pivot point is getting worse.

Actually, I sanded down the edges of this piece very slightly in order for it to not rub on the standard rims :D

is there a 50+ stud double wihbone front suspension? i tried it and my steering rods were all over the place 

Hi, want to design some car, but don't want to invent another bicycle from zero - maybe anyone has some front or/and suspension that matches the following:
1) Independent suspencion

2) Portal hubs

3) Diff with lock

4) 21 - 23 studs wide

UPD: Quick search had no results here

22 minutes ago, Aleh said:

Hi, want to design some car, but don't want to invent another bicycle from zero - maybe anyone has some front or/and suspension that matches the following:
1) Independent suspencion

2) Portal hubs

3) Diff with lock

4) 21 - 23 studs wide

UPD: Quick search had no results here

I don't see a way to make a locking, independent portal suspension so narrow. 8110's axle which was a live axle without locks and no suspension was 25 studs wide. I think you have to rethink your needs.

Edited January 27, 20232 yr by Zerobricks

23 minutes ago, Aleh said:

Hi, want to design some car, but don't want to invent another bicycle from zero - maybe anyone has some front or/and suspension that matches the following:
1) Independent suspencion

2) Portal hubs

3) Diff with lock

4) 21 - 23 studs wide

UPD: Quick search had no results here

Nice ambitions :) I guess you want it steered and driven as well. Quick counting: diff frame: 5 wide. Add space for diff-lock on both sides +2*2 wide. Add independent suspension (double CV joints) on both sides: +6*2 wide. Add portal hub (assuming the existing single piece) +3*2 wide. That's 5 + 4 + 12 + 6 = 27 wide. And even then you'd realize you can't use the CV joints because they don't have long enough axles, so you'd have to resort to U-joints, which would make it even wider or have incorrect geometry.

3 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

Nice ambitions :) I guess you want it steered and driven as well. Quick counting: diff frame: 5 wide. Add space for diff-lock on both sides +2*2 wide. Add independent suspension (double CV joints) on both sides: +6*2 wide. Add portal hub (assuming the existing single piece) +3*2 wide. That's 5 + 4 + 12 + 6 = 27 wide. And even then you'd realize you can't use the CV joints because they don't have long enough axles, so you'd have to resort to U-joints, which would make it even wider or have incorrect geometry.

aahaha, yeap)))
5) Steered
6) Driven

8 minutes ago, Zerobricks said:

I don't see a way to make a locking, independent portal suspension so narrow. 8110's axle which was a live axle without locks and no suspension was 25 studs wide. I think you have to rethink your needs.

It seems  you are right - wide would be at least 25 studs.. I mean the distane between the point where the wheels will mount, not the overall width together with tires

11 minutes ago, Zerobricks said:

 8110's axle which was a live axle without locks and no suspension was 25 studs wide. 

19 I suppose?
 

 

13 minutes ago, Aleh said:

aahaha, yeap)))
5) Steered
6) Driven

It seems  you are right - wide would be at least 25 studs.. I mean the distane between the point where the wheels will mount, not the overall width together with tires

19 I suppose?

20 studs between wheel mounts. There is a way to use perpendicular drive axles instead of differentials and CV joints at a this width or slightly wider for better stability like I did with my Oshkosh 10x10:

But these kind of setup is more fiddly, weaker and generally less efficient.

is there any crawler suspension that has at least 3-4 studs of travel, uses the normal 6.5l shocks (hard or extra hard) if possible, double wishbone and can be steered and driven

diff is optional since im making a 4wd PU half crawler half trophy truck kinda like a wishbone buggy which can crawl stuff and is pretty sturdy.

tbh if anyone has a chassis imma try making smth off that :P

Just now, glowytheglowbug said:

is there any crawler suspension that has at least 3-4 studs of travel, uses the normal 6.5l shocks (hard or extra hard) if possible, double wishbone and can be steered and driven

diff is optional since im making a 4wd PU half crawler half trophy truck kinda like a wishbone buggy which can crawl stuff and is pretty sturdy.

tbh if anyone has a chassis imma try making smth off that :P

 

11 minutes ago, Zerobricks said:

 

im thinking more of a lighter model using no buwizz, i had issues with it overcurrenting and i want to use a mindstorms spike hub (currently just a normal PU technic hub) too 

Edited January 27, 20232 yr by glowytheglowbug

Just now, glowytheglowbug said:

im thinking more of a lighter model using no buwizz, i had issues with it overcurrenting and i want to use a mindstorms spike hub too 

Nothing is stopping you from using different motors, gearing and controller

15 minutes ago, Zerobricks said:

Nothing is stopping you from using different motors, gearing and controller

do you happen to have a studio model? would be a bit easier for my eyes when reverse engineering your build lol 

Just now, glowytheglowbug said:

do you happen to have a studio model? would be a bit easier for my eyes when reverse engineering your build lol 

No, lol

6 minutes ago, Zerobricks said:

No, lol

aww LDD model? i see you have a render 

Edited January 27, 20232 yr by glowytheglowbug

Made poor prototype of 29 studs and understood that new diffs with red gear are not compatible with the old red clutch. So if make a lock on the same axle with a new diff and new DBG clutch - need two more studs wider so the total axle will be 31 studs, which is exact two studs wider wthan the scale of the model. But I think the way is to build a body in scale, but attach wider mudguards...

And also will try custom portals

2 hours ago, glowytheglowbug said:

aww LDD model? i see you have a render 

Sure, here:

https://bricksafe.com/files/Zblj/universal-4x4/Universal 4x4.lxf

Also added it to the topic.

26 minutes ago, Aleh said:

Made poor prototype of 29 studs and understood that new diffs with red gear are not compatible with the old red clutch. So if make a lock on the same axle with a new diff and new DBG clutch - need two more studs wider so the total axle will be 31 studs, which is exact two studs wider wthan the scale of the model. But I think the way is to build a body in scale, but attach wider mudguards...

And also will try custom portals

I made custom portal which are a stud narrower for my tiger 6x6:

I would recommend replacing the original U joints with CV joints which are stronger and allow more barcing.

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for suggestions on how I can improve my axle design. I’m currently using a modified version of a design by P-LEGO.

This current design wasn’t able to cope with the weight of the finished build (wasn’t particularly heavy either), as the wheel hubs are only supported at the top causing the wheels to bow outwards at the bottom.

The model will be used for off-roading so I need something with fairly decent ground clearance. I’m trying not to used modified parts except for the springs from the suspension pieces. I also plan on using the 56904 wheelset.

As the rest of the model is complete, I’m rather awkwardly limited to these compact dimensions, otherwise it’ll be a total re-design which I’d rather avoid if possible. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks! 

38 minutes ago, Cactus4579 said:

I’m looking for suggestions on how I can improve my axle design. I’m currently using a modified version of a design by P-LEGO.

At this size, not much fundamental improvement is possible if you want to preserve ground clearance. What size of wheels do you use?

Did you try using black friction pins instead of the grey frictionless ones to mount the 'wheel hubs' to the cross beam? That's what I did and it worked okay for me, although with a light model. At this scale a model should be small, how did you build it heavy? Is it a big truck?

Also, why do you use a 11L beam on the top when the axle is 9 wide? It will collide with the rim, no?

37 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

At this size, not much fundamental improvement is possible if you want to preserve ground clearance. What size of wheels do you use?

Did you try using black friction pins instead of the grey frictionless ones to mount the 'wheel hubs' to the cross beam? That's what I did and it worked okay for me, although with a light model. At this scale a model should be small, how did you build it heavy? Is it a big truck?

Also, why do you use a 11L beam on the top when the axle is 9 wide? It will collide with the rim, no?

Thanks for the reply, the overall model isn’t too heavy it’s a small AWD car, which is why I was surprised when this design didn’t work too well. I plan on using the wheels part no. 56904.

I found that the 11L beam helped to stop the wheels from bowing outwards, luckily the wheels have a slight lip on them allowing the them to just clear the beam. Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll try replacing the grey pins with the friction ones and see if it improves it.

I think the main problem is that the universal joints slide along the axle, so I might have to sacrifice a bit of ground clearance in favour of making it more secure. 
 

 

 

1 hour ago, Cactus4579 said:

I plan on using the wheels part no. 56904.

Ah, so that's the thinner one, that does clear. What tires do you want to put on them for an offroader? Does the tire also clear?