@Cactus4579 is it front axle? I wonder how it supposed to turn when shock are mounted like this.

3 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

Ah, so that's the thinner one, that does clear. What tires do you want to put on them for an offroader? Does the tire also clear?

The tyres clear too, it’s part no. 56898. I’m limited to a smaller tyre by the size of the wheel arches so these seem to be the best fit. 

1 hour ago, keymaker said:

@Cactus4579 is it front axle? I wonder how it supposed to turn when shock are mounted like this.

It is a front axle yep. If I can compress the pictures enough I’ll try and upload a photo of some different views. 

Good day.

Today I decided to try to create a new version of axles with a portal gearbox. So far, it's not perfect, but I'm thinking how to fix it.

I tried to make the axles as compact as possible, but with a large clearance, so I used portal reductors.

 

I also needed a large eversion, so the steering racks had to be abandoned. Because of this, Ackermann steering had to be used.

I haven't come up with a frame mount yet (which I don't have yet) and I need to redo the steering.

 

I don't have much experience, so please offer your ideas.

You should choose to use the same gear ratio in all Portals. You are missing the upper gear that pairs with either the 20t or the 24t gears.

The missing gear's axle 3 should continue through to the differential which is incomplete ( 3 gears inside).

Do not use an axle all the way through the portal to attach wheels. The portal has a three pin design for that.

There is not drive from the differential through the portal to where the wheels attach.

 

On 5/7/2023 at 11:44 PM, 1963maniac said:

You should choose to use the same gear ratio in all Portals. You are missing the upper gear that pairs with either the 20t or the 24t gears.

The missing gear's axle 3 should continue through to the differential which is incomplete ( 3 gears inside).

Do not use an axle all the way through the portal to attach wheels. The portal has a three pin design for that.

There is not drive from the differential through the portal to where the wheels attach.

Thank you for your advice.
This file was an example of what I want to do, and I didn't finish it completely, so there were a lot of errors in it.
I think the videos were superfluous because almost everyone knows how hubs work.

I'd be more interested in hearing advice on how to generally improve these bridges and attach them to the frame.
But at the moment I decided to make an independent suspension with portal hubs.

My contribution to the floating/suspended pendular category. I use it for my 6x6. At the scale I use it, metal u-joints are a must but it's very sturdy.  YT description has parts list and LXF.

 

You can see the drop test here:

 

Edited May 18, 20231 yr by shroomzofdoom

Hello!

I was thinking again about a suspension for a truck, and came up with an option with independent suspension and portal reductors. Here's what I got:

  

LXF

The distance between the wheel mounts is 25 studs. Large clearance and large steering angle. The design is compatible with most wheels with hub mounts. There is a small backlash (no more than 0.5 studs).

All this can give greater cross-country ability to the car on which it will be installed. It remains to find a place for the springs and you can go.

 

I look forward to your suggestions for improvement.

Edited May 20, 20231 yr by SUPER Max Black

Hi guys,

as the new steering hub with the stronger CV-joint is coming in the 42162, has anybody already worked out a solution for a 11L wide steering and driving axle?

I currently use the older version but like to have a higher steering angle for a tractor.... so it should be sturdy...

@Jundis, because they have ball joint only possible was is to angle suspension arms like in this image (but then you'll have to live with only oscilated front axle, no real suspension...)

https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/161934-systems-tractors-and-other-machinery/&do=findComment&comment=3579929

Edited December 21, 20231 yr by 1gor

On 7/22/2023 at 9:53 AM, Jundis said:

Hi guys,

as the new steering hub with the stronger CV-joint is coming in the 42162, has anybody already worked out a solution for a 11L wide steering and driving axle?

I currently use the older version but like to have a higher steering angle for a tractor.... so it should be sturdy...

 

Perhaps you can use those CV joints (and make bricks built hub...)

Edited December 21, 20231 yr by 1gor

Hi Everybody,

 

Sometime ago @1gor made a challenge for a narrow axle with the planetary hubs. 

I tried to do an 11L wide axle but soon I realized that it would not be possible with legal buildings. So, I went illegal. And built this. I did not try it in a real model (no time…) but it seems to work fine and, hopefully, with enough embracing. There are some more pictures of it here, not real instructions but they might help. Those two red 2L axles in picture 11 (here) are placed inside the frames and held only from top and bottom by the connectors of the steering arms, but they are important to keep the thin beams in place. Whish we had 9L thin beams.

Hope you like it!

 

 

 

Not a bad approach! A little strained, sure, but probably one of the most practical designs I've seen yet! Too bat about the diminished ground clearance on the bottom, though.

1 hour ago, vascolp said:

And built this.

Creative solution, but another problem this has besides the quite bad ground clearance is the anti-ackermann steering geometry.

Thank you @2GodBDGlory and @gyenesvi !

Ground clearance, yes... no solution for that, I think.

Anti-ackermann, well with such a big turning radious it is not really an issue, I think. On the other hand, like this, it allows the usase of 81.6 ballon tyres. I had a version with no ackermann but it was 1L longer and did not allwed this kind of tires... so it is a compromise.

What is reason for those half stud spacings?

11 minutes ago, Jurss said:

What is reason for those half stud spacings?

The steering arms needed to hold the planetary hubs are 5L so they need to be raised/lowered to give space for the differential.

If only we had a smaller steering arm or some other pieces with ball sockets...

Oh yes, somehow missed that.

On 7/22/2023 at 9:53 AM, Jundis said:

... a

s the new steering hub with the stronger CV-joint is coming in the 42162, has anybody already worked out a solution for a 11L wide steering and driving axle?

Another option that I'm currently considering for this problem (4WD / 4 wheel steering tractor) is to keep the hubs at 13L but use the defender rims. That gets you to the same width, and allows for a better pivot point.  the black rim can be cleaned up by a disc or big sprocket representing wheel weights. Or you can mount duals ;)

@vascolp that could be usefull, but I have to test how strong it is. I had some experimenting with longer suspension arm

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=57515#T=C

 

1 hour ago, Arie said:

Another option that I'm currently considering for this problem (4WD / 4 wheel steering tractor) is to keep the hubs at 13L but use the defender rims. That gets you to the same width, and allows for a better pivot point.  the black rim can be cleaned up by a disc or big sprocket representing wheel weights. Or you can mount duals ;)

Defender rims are under way, but I need yellow rims, so I'll have to see how it looks to use black Defender rims with yellow 6 x 6 dish (on 94.3 tire that will be available in 2024)

2 hours ago, vascolp said:

The steering arms needed to hold the planetary hubs are 5L so they need to be raised/lowered to give space for the differential.

If only we had a smaller steering arm or some other pieces with ball sockets...

That is something we need for about last few years...

A 6L suspension arm will allow the normal diff to pass under it, so you don't have to put them at an angle.

Edited December 21, 20231 yr by Zerobricks

Just now, Zerobricks said:

A 6L suspension arm will allow the normal diff to pass under it, so you don't have to put them at an angle.

I know (differential with 24 tooth), but I plan to use 28 tooth...that's my head schratcher buddy

3 minutes ago, 1gor said:

I know (differential with 24 tooth), but I plan to use 28 tooth...that's my head schratcher buddy

I am refering to the dark bluish grey 28 tooth differential.

EDIT: My bad, I was wrong.

How about using no differential or double axle drive with 12 tooth bevel gears?

Or you can simply offset the diff and drive axle by a stud to the side.

Edited December 21, 20231 yr by Zerobricks

10 minutes ago, 1gor said:

Defender rims are under way, but I need yellow rims, so I'll have to see how it looks to use black Defender rims with yellow 6 x 6 dish (on 94.3 tire that will be available in 2024)

Thats my plan for now:

And (sorry offtopic) ARE WE GETTING 94.3 TRACTOR TIRES?! that would give some proper motivation to dust of this WIP MoC :)

 

1 hour ago, Zerobricks said:

 

Or you can simply offset the diff and drive axle by a stud to the side.

I have tried, but when streagthening suspension arms part of hub where you connect gear rack is in the way so sfeering angle is very very small.

@Arie tires 94.3 x 34 tractor are coming in 2024, but there is one catch - not Lego ones 

4 hours ago, Arie said:

Another option that I'm currently considering for this problem (4WD / 4 wheel steering tractor) is to keep the hubs at 13L but use the defender rims. That gets you to the same width, and allows for a better pivot point.  the black rim can be cleaned up by a disc or big sprocket representing wheel weights. Or you can mount duals ;)

Can you post image with dish in other color than black to see how it looks like?

Thanks

17 minutes ago, 1gor said:

Can you post image with dish in other color than black to see how it looks like?

Why don't you try it in Studio and experiment with whatever you think might fit before ordering parts :)