1gor Posted February 12, 2014 Posted February 12, 2014 Igor, 18 studs with tires or between tires? Michael, track for each axle is calculating as distance between middle of left and right tire. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Axle_track Hope that my link is usefull the only way that I know is to use wheel with negative offset, so pivot point is closer to middle of wheel. Unfortunately LEGO has wheel from 8448 set and futuristic that have zero offset, and current wheels racing have one stud positive offset and wheel racing 62,4 X 46 from 8466 set has 1/2 stud positive offset, by my calculations. Please correct me if I'm wrong only way to make negative offset is like this http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=513018 problem is that it fits only simple axle and not this http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=92909 another problem is that wheels contact with axle is only good for display... I hope that now you understand what I think about distance... Regards Quote
efferman Posted February 12, 2014 Author Posted February 12, 2014 ok, what is with the independent suspension which i have shown in the first post? Quote
1gor Posted February 12, 2014 Posted February 12, 2014 ok, what is with the independent suspension which i have shown in the first post? Michael, Differential should be in the middle of axle like on real car or tractor, and it should be 3 studs tall (this is no problem actually) Quote
efferman Posted February 12, 2014 Author Posted February 12, 2014 then i dont think that it is possible with actual parts Quote
1gor Posted February 12, 2014 Posted February 12, 2014 then i dont think that it is possible with actual parts or to make wheel that has positive offset. another solution would be that this part http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=30374 is modified at the end to have ends like this http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=32494 to be used with those parts http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=92906 or http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=92909 despite bad turning angle thanks Quote
efferman Posted February 12, 2014 Author Posted February 12, 2014 a part like this? cvaxlejoint von efferman auf Flickr Quote
1gor Posted February 12, 2014 Posted February 12, 2014 a part like this? cvaxlejoint von efferman auf Flickr Exactly, just to be 4 studs long I a part like this? cvaxlejoint von efferman auf Flickr ...and have identical both ends...sou you can use them only with this part at the both side: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=92906 Quote
Zerobricks Posted February 12, 2014 Posted February 12, 2014 You can make narrow suspesion tatra-styled. Quote
Paul Boratko Posted February 12, 2014 Posted February 12, 2014 (edited) Here is a new front(or rear) drive suspension with steering that I've been working on between projects... The perpendicular connectors on the top at each end limit the range of the steering rack so that the CV joints do not bind... What I would really like to see Lego produce is a gear rack shaped like this one... It would make adding steering to vehicles with differentials much easier to work with... I've seen prototype pictures of a 3D printed gear rack they were using for front drive with steering for a supercar, but this shape would also work well... Here is one of their prototypes... Edited February 12, 2014 by Paul Boratko Quote
Marcel1980 Posted February 12, 2014 Posted February 12, 2014 (edited) Or a rack that 9 studs wide... That would be a big help Edited February 12, 2014 by Marcel1980 Quote
efferman Posted February 12, 2014 Author Posted February 12, 2014 we should make the discussion about new parts here. Quote
Zerobricks Posted February 12, 2014 Posted February 12, 2014 (edited) Ot shorter, 5L steering links :) EDIT Why not just use the new steering arms as steering links? Edited February 12, 2014 by Zblj Quote
efferman Posted February 12, 2014 Author Posted February 12, 2014 like this? 100_0873 von efferman auf Flickr Quote
Zerobricks Posted February 12, 2014 Posted February 12, 2014 (edited) like this? 100_0873 von efferman auf Flickr No with differential and 5x7 frame! Should fit perfectly! Gonna draw it in LDD soon. Here's the idea. The pink beams represent the new suspension parts. There are two variations: You could proboably use 3x3 L parts instead of conectors in the next idea though: Edited February 12, 2014 by Zblj Quote
gerger Posted February 13, 2014 Posted February 13, 2014 (edited) question; not only for you Michael, but for all of you respected builders - do you know how to make steered driver independent suspension axle that has differential but is more narrow than 18 studs? It must use differential at the center of axle and universal joints? Igor, i came into similar question when i am moc-ing my 42009 into all wheels drive + independent suspension+ steering , which the model is 17studs wide wheel to wheel. Here's what I come up with by placing the differential vertically. I haven't test it out yet and hopefully it works ok. LXF file here. just replace the 4 red 1x3 beams with new 5L steering links (part #15459) Edited February 21, 2014 by gerger Quote
1gor Posted February 13, 2014 Posted February 13, 2014 Igor, i came into similar question when i am moc-ing my 42009 into all wheels drive + independent suspension+ steering , which the model is 17studs width wheel to wheel. Here's what I come up with by placing the differential vertically. I haven't test it out yet and hopefully it works ok. LXF file here. just replace the 4 red 1x3 beams with new 5L steering links (part #15459) HI, I know that this is only way, but I was hoping that there is some info about some new part, but we will see what is doable. This latest solution is a kind of compromise and could be temporary solution, but have to wait until weekend to try it. thanks Quote
Rockbrick Posted February 13, 2014 Posted February 13, 2014 (edited) Igor, i came into similar question when i am moc-ing my 42009 into all wheels drive + independent suspension+ steering , which the model is 17studs wide wheel to wheel. Here's what I come up with by placing the differential vertically. I haven't test it out yet and hopefully it works ok. LXF file here. just replace the 4 red 1x3 beams with new 5L steering links (part #15459) Why is the left axle driving the ring gear and not the other pinion axle or is it the view obscuring the gear behind it? Edited February 13, 2014 by Rockbrick Quote
Technyk32231 Posted February 13, 2014 Posted February 13, 2014 Why is the left axle driving the ring gear and not the other pinion axle or is it the view obscuring the gear behind it? I think you're right... Quote
Zerobricks Posted February 13, 2014 Posted February 13, 2014 Also those 2L axle would eventually slip into the Cv joints... Quote
D3K Posted February 13, 2014 Posted February 13, 2014 Also those 2L axle would eventually slip into the Cv joints... I made a similar setup, but that problem kept annoying me, so I eventually cut a half-stud off of two 3L axles, and it worked great! Quote
gerger Posted February 13, 2014 Posted February 13, 2014 Why is the left axle driving the ring gear and not the other pinion axle or is it the view obscuring the gear behind it? it's should be the middle pinion axle driving the ring gear, but i found another problem that the left bevel gear is touching the ring gear , but LDD somehow allow the build.. Quote
Rockbrick Posted February 13, 2014 Posted February 13, 2014 (edited) Also those 2L axle would eventually slip into the Cv joints... I suppose you could slip a vary small ball bearing in the hole to stop the 2L axle slipping into it it's should be the middle pinion axle driving the ring gear, but i found another problem that the left bevel gear is touching the ring gear , but LDD somehow allow the build.. Eitherway - we understand the concept... pretty neat Edited February 13, 2014 by Rockbrick Quote
Fyredog Posted February 14, 2014 Posted February 14, 2014 (edited) This does work, with a couple bracing mods, it's fairly smooth, I think useable. I do not have the hubs yet, or the new upper & Lower arms so I improvised that until my parts come in. I think I will use one shock, and rework the bracing. Anxious to get parts and build and adapt these into the 42009. Edited February 14, 2014 by Fyredog Quote
Doc_Brown Posted February 16, 2014 Posted February 16, 2014 (edited) Nice leaf spring set-up there Doc I don't think I've personally designed any axles, tbh it's the bit I struggle with especially for Trial Trucks Thank you very much, I'm still learning tho! Just keep trying, Heaps of people here will help ya out if you get stuck. I'm not a fan of 42000 hubs or CV joints, as I broke a brand new one in 5 seconds flat! This is because they have a design flaw that locks the joint when at an angle of about 30 degrees or more. Edited February 16, 2014 by Doc_Brown Quote
gerger Posted February 20, 2014 Posted February 20, 2014 (edited) This does work, with a couple bracing mods, it's fairly smooth, I think useable. I do not have the hubs yet, or the new upper & Lower arms so I improvised that until my parts come in. I think I will use one shock, and rework the bracing. Anxious to get parts and build and adapt these into the 42009. I tested my own setup and the result is not perfectly smooth... the ring differential gear can turn but up to a point where its cage side wall hit the bevel gear.. Here is an updated version, which the differential is placed 1 stud lower and everything seem solved :) Pink for drive; Black for differential; red for transmission to wheel hubs; blue for steering; green to represent new 5L steering arm. I will try to build it this weekend to see how it works. LXF here. Edited February 21, 2014 by gerger Quote
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