Jump to content
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS! ×
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 814
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted
1 hour ago, J0rtikka said:

Hi,

In build instructions step 21, there are 2 yellow 3 long axels, are they right length? or should I trim then to 2.5 length?

 

S:J

Just use a 2 long axle instead. That's pretty much a blunder on the instructions. 

Posted

I think we should include suspension solutions with the axle in this thread. 
So many axles to make but so very little solutions on for example: live axles, how to attach them to frames with linkages ect.. 

Posted
On 10/17/2020 at 1:23 PM, Ami Tavory said:

Interesting, thanks!

I ordered a couple of buggy motors, and was thinking of connecting each one to a front wheel directly, and making a forward-wheel drive where the motors themselves rotate with the steering. (They haven't arrived yet.) I wonder if you have any thoughts on this sort of axle.

I'm just curious about what kind of powerful, front-drive car you are planning on making! There aren't a whole lot of real-life cars with that combination, since FWD is generally worse for performance. It sounds interesting!

Posted

 

Here's a simple, but very sturdy solid axle.

It can be powered by one or two L motors, but steering is a challenge(though possible).

SolidAxleSolidAxle2

I have tested it, and it's almost indestructible.

Posted

I would use a dog bone connector instead of the magenta 5L beam, so you can additionaly brace the 20 tooth gear. I used a very simillar setup in my motorization mod of the Zeux.

Posted

Here's an improved version

BEFORE ANYONE BUILDS THIS: If assembled incorrectly, the parts will be very hard to disassemble, the blue 3l pins must be facing a certain way to disassemble the structure.

SolidAxle3

 

I threw on a panhard-type suspension setup, the shocks keep the axle from twisting.

Posted (edited)
48 minutes ago, The_Tinkerer said:

Here's an improved version

*SNIP*

I threw on a panhard-type suspension setup, the shocks keep the axle from twisting.

Looks great! 


"BEFORE ANYONE BUILDS THIS: If assembled incorrectly, the parts will be very hard to disassemble, the blue 3l pins must be facing a certain way to disassemble the structure."

I don't get it? 

Edited by Mechbuilds
Posted

If you place the four 3l pins in pointing away from(so the stop is closer to) the drive gear on one side, and then push in the axle to the motor, the assembly becomes like the problems here:

The axle 4l through the 20-tooth gear keeps the 3l pins from being removed, thus permanently fixing the structure. I know be cause I did it, and needed a knife to remove the axle.

These two pictures show where the problem is.

Problem2Problem1

The two 3l pins(sticking out is the top picture) are facing the wrong way.

Posted

Use a 4 long axle with end stop. That way you can wiggle the stop loose enough for a knife or fingernails to pull the axle out. 
This will be a precaution in case the pins get placed the wrong way. 

Posted (edited)

Upon further testing, the axle is not as sturdy as I had previously thought. I last built it around two years ago, and forgot that all the weight is held by those four 3l pins, meaning the axle is more 'flexible.' I think adding a 11l beam across the bottom between the two sets of L-beams should stiffen it up some. Apparently the track width is the same as 42070...

Edited by The_Tinkerer
spelling/grammar
Posted

Not sure if it counts, but I made a mini scale (30.4 wheels) suspension for a supercar with mini piston engine and full differential. Pendular axles suspended on mini rubber bands:

 

Posted
On 10/26/2020 at 5:22 PM, Mechbuilds said:

How do the CV axles handle torque? Will the motor yield or the CV pop out? 

If it isn't being steered, why not get rid of the CV joint entirely and just use a normal axle?

Posted

 

6 hours ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

If it isn't being steered, why not get rid of the CV joint entirely and just use a normal axle?

The axle was originally meant to be steered. The axle can be made solid with cross-axles passing through the center, but I used the cv joint because I could.

I figured out how to properly brace the axle and still leave enough room to steer it. This is closest to the original version I built around two years ago.

Solid AxleSteered

 

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

While trying hard to figure out a working AWD front axle for a drift car, i discovered a cool trick how to make a surprisingly sturdy wheel hub.. Check it out:

eHlzS9gl.png

If somebody can make an axle that uses this, it would be amazing! 


V2:

D3GQwJJl.png

This is also very sturdy and no half stud offset. 


EPtH6rxl.png2qMaxK8l.png

Man i'm on fire with this hub! 

Edited by Mechbuilds

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

Announcements

  • THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

×
×
  • Create New...