Essge Posted June 27, 2014 Posted June 27, 2014 D3K: I see. I thought the drivetrain was connected to a frontaxle. The picture isnt upside down? If not, I think you could get better ground clearence if you take the output for the fake engine on top of the diff. The output goes from the 16-tooth part of the diff, the output gear is of course a freespin 16-tooth. You know the drill further on :) Zblj: Did you forget the word "need" in your sentence? Quote
D3K Posted June 27, 2014 Posted June 27, 2014 D3K: I see. I thought the drivetrain was connected to a frontaxle. The picture isnt upside down? If not, I think you could get better ground clearence if you take the output for the fake engine on top of the diff. The output goes from the 16-tooth part of the diff, the output gear is of course a freespin 16-tooth. You know the drill further on :) Thanks for the input! I see what you mean, and of course, without seeing the rest of the vehicle, it might be hard to see why I put it down there. For other uses of this setup, one may very well put it on top, but in this particular model, I have other mechanical functions on top of the diff, as well as steering further up front that occupy the central line. Also, the XL-motors connected to the outermost 16 tooth gears in the picture, are sticking down to the same level as the purple axle Quote
Zerobricks Posted June 28, 2014 Posted June 28, 2014 (edited) Yes you dont really need a diff between rear axles. Edited June 28, 2014 by Zblj Quote
Essge Posted June 28, 2014 Posted June 28, 2014 (edited) D3K. If your dumper truck drives over some rocks and the axle in the middle gets stuck in some rocks and the axle in the back gets som air. Then they will spin free and youre pretty much stuck if you down lock the diff :) Edited July 2, 2014 by Essge Quote
Essge Posted July 4, 2014 Posted July 4, 2014 (edited) I've made 2 8x8 trucks. The first one can only turn with the 2 front pair of wheels and the second can turn on all wheels using 2 motors. Then the truck can drive kind of sideways. Its no suspension here. Just some rods - If the right front wheel goes over a rock it will force the wheel behind go down or something. I dont know exactly how to explane it :) 1. 2. Send me a pm if you want the lxf :) I will try to make this in the end of August when I move to place with better space. Edited July 4, 2014 by Essge Quote
SNIPE Posted July 4, 2014 Posted July 4, 2014 (edited) Here's my latest: This uses a spring to give extra traction between the wheels and the driving surface, where the wheels would normally slip this compresses the spring which gives traction to the wheels, the worm gear still rotates when it compresses so the wheels still get driven. It is designed for crawling, However you can disconnect the worm gear using the clutch and lever then either leave it to free wheel or add a faster drive using spur gears. This is different to a differential but ultimately does the same thing. When the spring is done compressing and no extra traction is needed it moves the car forwards a little bit, faster a than it would normally go, To automatically disconnect the worm gear from driving the wheels when the spring compresses so much, replace the axle joiner with ridges that is inside the clutch with a smooth axle joiner. Suspension for the axle can be added to wherever there's an available hole. The wheels are driven and can turn but not a great deal, looking to somehow improve that, putting the 32184's on the steering underneath makes one wheel turn slightly more than the other. Edited July 4, 2014 by SNIPE Quote
Zerobricks Posted July 4, 2014 Posted July 4, 2014 I've made 2 8x8 trucks. The first one can only turn with the 2 front pair of wheels and the second can turn on all wheels using 2 motors. Then the truck can drive kind of sideways. Its no suspension here. Just some rods - If the right front wheel goes over a rock it will force the wheel behind go down or something. I dont know exactly how to explane it :) 1. 2. Send me a pm if you want the lxf :) I will try to make this in the end of August when I move to place with better space. Did you actually build this in real life? The 8 ttoth gears would either fall off axles or be grinded...And the chassis looks really soft...Try to build it in real life, you will see... Quote
Essge Posted July 5, 2014 Posted July 5, 2014 (edited) No. I didnt make this. If you read the last thing I wrote, it says: I will try to make this at the end of August. Maybe it wont be any good as all of yours trucks. You have to start somewhere. I havent buildt any lego since 2012, because I dont have any place to do it. No space. If the parts are falling off, I will try to make it better. If its no chance to make it better and the gears are making bullshait all the time. I will build something else. Edited July 5, 2014 by Essge Quote
Zerobricks Posted July 5, 2014 Posted July 5, 2014 No. I didnt make this. If you read the last thing I wrote, it says: I will try to make this at the end of August. Maybe it wont be any good as all of yours trucks. You have to start somewhere. I havent buildt any lego since 2012, because I dont have any place to do it. No space. If the parts are falling off, I will try to make it better. If its no chance to make it better and the gears are making bullshait all the time. I will build something else. Yeah LDD can be quite deceiving... Keep building in real life too, you will get experiences. Quote
jorgeopesi Posted July 5, 2014 Posted July 5, 2014 (edited) Inspired by piterx stratos but I tried to build narrower, what do you think, have you ever seen something like this?. Edited July 5, 2014 by jorgeopesi Quote
Hrafn Posted July 6, 2014 Posted July 6, 2014 (edited) Inspired by piterx stratos but I tried to build narrower, what do you think, have you ever seen something like this?. I like it! Nice and compact. I assume you get some bump steer since the steering links aren't the same length as the suspension arms, but it's probably not much of an issue. How did you connect the steering axle to the sliding steering "rack"? Edited July 7, 2014 by Blakbird : removed large quoted images. Quote
jorgeopesi Posted July 6, 2014 Posted July 6, 2014 Like this but you can easy change the steering system, now I was playing with a return to center (bad pic) using the one of the left. Quote
jorgeopesi Posted July 8, 2014 Posted July 8, 2014 I'm still learning with ldd... with return to center integrated. https://www.dropbox.com/s/i1a6snc4ghn2wkz/Front%20axle.lxf Quote
Essge Posted August 26, 2014 Posted August 26, 2014 I've tried to build a MAZ 537 8x8x4 truck which can be found in the Spintires game. I cant find a good solution to a strong reliable independent suspension to use for offroading/crawling. I will be using 2x rc buggy motors, m-motor(s) for steering, a Traxxas XL-5 ESC and a servo hooked up du a PF-switch to make the steering work properly. 2.4 Ghz radio to get range (which IR-PF does not have f.ex in direct sunlight. For tires, I got 8 Axial ripsaw mounted on the standard big lego rims The real MAZ 537 does not have portal axles but I cant find the legoversion of the portal axles strong i combination with independent suspension. Do you guy/girls out here have a solution I maybe can use? Brickshelf has been down for a few days, so I cant just go and look :) Thanks in advance :) Quote
Zerobricks Posted August 26, 2014 Posted August 26, 2014 I suggest you to open a new help me-kind of topic and post more details there. Quote
Technyk32231 Posted August 26, 2014 Posted August 26, 2014 (edited) I've tried to build a MAZ 537 8x8x4 truck which can be found in the Spintires game. I cant find a good solution to a strong reliable independent suspension to use for offroading/crawling. I will be using 2x rc buggy motors, m-motor(s) for steering, a Traxxas XL-5 ESC and a servo hooked up du a PF-switch to make the steering work properly. 2.4 Ghz radio to get range (which IR-PF does not have f.ex in direct sunlight. For tires, I got 8 Axial ripsaw mounted on the standard big lego rims The real MAZ 537 does not have portal axles but I cant find the legoversion of the portal axles strong i combination with independent suspension. Do you guy/girls out here have a solution I maybe can use? Brickshelf has been down for a few days, so I cant just go and look :) Thanks in advance :) Are you talking about the MAZ that comes with the game? You know, how the tech demo and the dev version both start out with the MAZ and UAZ? If it is that MAZ, you may have some other problems too, since the real life MAZ has leaf springs. Edited August 26, 2014 by Technyk32231 Quote
efferman Posted September 28, 2014 Author Posted September 28, 2014 two frontaxles, 27 studs wide, limited slip diff, planetary gear wheels, propulsion by XL lxf Quote
Zerobricks Posted September 28, 2014 Posted September 28, 2014 two frontaxles, 27 studs wide, limited slip diff, planetary gear wheels, propulsion by XL lxf You forgot to put on of the planetary 8 tooth gears on one side of the axle. Its missing where the U joint is slightly out of alignment. I like the limited slip diff. Quote
efferman Posted September 28, 2014 Author Posted September 28, 2014 Thank you very much, the problem is fixed Quote
SNIPE Posted September 28, 2014 Posted September 28, 2014 Does the tire sit over the turntables? Quote
efferman Posted September 28, 2014 Author Posted September 28, 2014 (edited) the tire is squeezed between the turntable with some additional parts racing wheel medium tires are fit too Edited September 28, 2014 by efferman Quote
efferman Posted September 29, 2014 Author Posted September 29, 2014 the fitting rear axle to the frontaxle above lxf Quote
Legostone Posted November 2, 2014 Posted November 2, 2014 I`ve lately been experimenting with the 42000 hubs, but I`m having trouble getting a lightweight, compact, steerable driven and independent suspended (with pushrods) front axle together. My problem is that I have no idea how to implement the steering in this specific case, as I can`t see a stable way to connect the steerining while the differential is in the way. I think it would be possible with the new 5l steering links, of which I sadly don`t own any and I would like to try to get this to work with parts I already have. unfinished front axle by Legostone, on Flickr The back axle already works, maybe someone wants to use it: driven+pushrod by Legostone, on Flickr Features: -driven(including differential) -pushrod suspension with some light adjustments it is possible to reduce the suspension angle (is this what you call it?), but that results in the shock absorbers hitting against other parts while not being fully compressed .lxf I would really appreciate if someone has either some tricks I don`t know yet or a working design lying around. As well as that I`m very sorry if my English isn`t perfect, it isn`t my motherlanguage. Quote
Zerobricks Posted November 2, 2014 Posted November 2, 2014 I like the rear axle's pushrod suspension design. For the front axle I suggest you to use 6L suspension arms. Quote
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