The inspiration for this MOC is my (now-sold) ’92 Toyota 4Runner, video here: https://vimeo.com/17747639 This is my first-ever studless build, as I used to build a lot with Technic about 16 years ago, but have just recently revisited the hobby.

The model is assembled from three sets: 8110, 9398 and 42000. I don’t have enough shifting ring parts to make everything work as I’d like it to, so this model will get revisited once I pick up a few more sets and can motorize shifting, add a central transmission diff (for 2wd, 4wd and 4lo), and figure out how to get better gearing for the main motors.

The model is powered by two PF-L motors hard-coupled to a single output shaft. Power goes into a Sariel-inspired 4-spd transmission, before being output both front and back (due to lacking the parts for a central diff) for a permanent 4wd system. There’s a diff at the front, and a (manually) locking diff at the back. Front suspension is an IFS setup and comes mostly from 42000, and steering is performed by a PF-M coupled to a clutch gear to prevent tooth grinding at full lock. Rear suspension is again Sariel-inspired for a live-axle setup. Tires are 1.9 Axial Maxxis Trepador on Unimog rims. (Current axle articulation is fairly accurate based on what I experienced with my 4Runner.)

The chassis is about 25 studs wide with about a 43 stud wheelbase. Overall model length should be about 60 studs which will be more-or-less in proportion to that of the actual vehicle. Current chassis weight is 1759g.

The suspension settles a bit, so I’m a little worried that once I add the body it will be too compressed, but that’s something to tackle for later!

More pictures at: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=539844

The suspension settles a bit, so I’m a little worried that once I add the body it will be too compressed, but that’s something to tackle for later!

It wouldn't be a real 4Runner anyway without some aftermarket suspension upgrades....

This looks very promising. I don't know what kind of suspension 4Runners have, but the setup you have has great flex. It should be a good offroader with flex like that. Can't wait to see more.

Wow, that thing is huge! The suspension works really well, too.

Also, it's one of the sturdiest studless constructions I've ever seen, the chasis doesn't appear to hardly bend at all! o.o

TLH

Man, that looks nice! I worry about those CV joints, though.

Looks huge and promising!

Awesome! Welcome back to LEGO. Many of us on the forum were away from LEGO at one point, and it's always nice to see somebody else getting back into it.

BTW, I used to have a '90 4Runner, which is basically the same as the '92, just with a different front end. I own a 2000 4Runner now.

Wow you are definitely a great chassis builder, but can you make a good body to match it? .

tim

Wow! Awesome start! As a real Toyota and Lego fan, looking forward to your MOC.

My advise: build modular. Chassis with detachable gearbox/transfer box as module save your nerves

We also have 2000 4Runner in our family and love it!

P.s. My Yota is here http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=63126&hl=prado

Edited February 10, 201411 yr by rm8

Thanks for all the feedback!

I'll take it outside today to do some off-road trials... I think the transmission needs reinforcement though!

@nstickyney Haha, very true! I am trying to figure out how to stiffen up the springs at this moment... considering buying some RC-style shock absorbers, hehe.

@unimog123 The real 2nd-generation 4Runner (as well as up to the current ones, I think) have IFS (independent front suspension) and a solid axle rear.

@TwentyLeggedHen Yes, the drivetrain needs work and strengthening. The Lego parts are not designed to handle this amount of weight, or tire resistance. I don't have enough parts yet to make a 100% realistic drivetrain, yet... I have to pick up a few more sets! The chassis is very stiff, but that was one of my goals!

@dhc6twinotter Yup, love 'Yotas. We've got a '13 Tacoma now. Awesome truck, one I'd definitely like to model at some point as well.

@timslegos Thanks.. we'll see about the body. I think my biggest challenge will be my paltry parts selection.

@rm8 Thanks! Yes, I started it with four modules (front suspension & steering; rear axle and frame; transmission; motors) however upon joining it all together it was far too flexy for me. So I added some reinforcements and it turned into one very sturdy module.. everything should still be easily accessible: guess I'll find out as I think I need to add some reinforcements to the gearing.

Welcome back. Your model looks good so far.

H

Just a quick bit of advice :

I noticed you only have one receiver for 3 motors. Because of the internal power limitations on the IR receivers, it might be better to split the power between two receivers.

The receivers comes from set 9398, so it is a V2

So i don't see a problem with the setup.

THAT LOOKS AWESOME!

Where'd you get those tires??

You can just stiff up the suspension by putting two instead of one, but i think you allready knew this. If I were you I would consider portal axles with gear reducation, just to make sure there no parts going to break while off-road. But if you wanna keep the drivetrain realistic to the real car, you don't need them. Is there anything else going to be motorized?

TS, If you want to make it RC, you should build it with portal hubs, because cv joints and differential gears could not handle big torque needed to move this heavy beast with such large tires.

Yeah, you could really use portal axles on this. I would consider changing those long suspension struts to double wishbones, so you would have more room for said portal axles. By doing this you could easily keep the wishbones at the same height as what you have here and put ball bearings on the portal axle.

Yeah, you could really use portal axles on this. I would consider changing those long suspension struts to double wishbones, so you would have more room for said portal axles. By doing this you could easily keep the wishbones at the same height as what you have here and put ball bearings on the portal axle.

That already is a double wishbone suspension.

I know. I meant the double wishbone pieces from sets 8070 and 8297, that have sockets for the ball bearings.

This way it becomes shorter than the original setup, allowing more room for the portal hub, so the width doesn't really change.

Edited February 15, 201411 yr by unimog123

I know. I meant the double wishbone pieces from sets 8070 and 8297, that have sockets for the ball bearings.

This way it becomes shorter than the original setup, allowing more room for the portal hub, so the width doesn't really change.

In most cases, shorter wishbones means less travel.

That's true, but it you can compensate for that by placing the shock absorbers closer to the chassis. Since he is using CV joints to transfer drive to the wheels he still won't be limited by the A-arms because the CV joints would not allow any more movement than the A-arms can. So either way there's nothing you can do about that except to use 1 u-joint and 1 CV joint to allow the axle to slide, but still give it good suspension travel.

You guys are getting a little ahead of me! I don't at the moment have any other suspension arms, and the decision to not use portal axles is for realism - the next project is a crawler and that will definitely have portal axles!

You guys are getting a little ahead of me! I don't at the moment have any other suspension arms, and the decision to not use portal axles is for realism - the next project is a crawler and that will definitely have portal axles!

Okay, but keep in mind you aren't able to go for a little off-road!

Edited February 15, 201411 yr by Black-Build

You guys are getting a little ahead of me! I don't at the moment have any other suspension arms, and the decision to not use portal axles is for realism - the next project is a crawler and that will definitely have portal axles!

Oh, well in that case it won't be the best off roader, but I wouldn't be discouraged. I've made trucks with diff's before and it's not to bad offroading.