piterx Posted February 21, 2014 Author Posted February 21, 2014 i'm not sure yet...probably a servo would be better because it gets to its original position but i have only two servos...one for the gearbox and another destinated to the steering rack....unless i use an M motor for the steering.... or pay 40 euros for another servo XDXDXDXD Quote
unimog123 Posted February 21, 2014 Posted February 21, 2014 I would say the servo is worth it, I also have 2 servos and I think they would work best for all three functions (steering, brakes, gearbox). Quote
Hrafn Posted February 21, 2014 Posted February 21, 2014 yeah i know those wheels but i don't have them and mainly they don't look as the real ones :P in the meanwhile i had to change the gearbox because the reverse was skipping...so it became a 4+N+R....and now the grinding problem is finally solved lol Looks good! I know it would throw the geometry off a bit, but have you considered moving the top axle slightly and using 12t double-bevel gears on it? Those would mesh a little more smoothly with the 16th clutch gear. Quote
piterx Posted February 21, 2014 Author Posted February 21, 2014 yeah i thought about that...i'll probably do that for another big scale model...for this one i'd like to make the gearbox the smaller i can but anyway it's not a big problem! and the clutch will help a lot :) Quote
timslegos Posted February 21, 2014 Posted February 21, 2014 Would you mind explaining how the clutch works? I am still trying to figure out the internals, to no avail. tim Quote
piterx Posted February 21, 2014 Author Posted February 21, 2014 here it is: two separate pieces with the centrifugal force the rubber parts make the dark grey rim spin the motor is connected to the part with rubber things, the gearbox is connected to the rim :) Quote
legomuppet9 Posted February 21, 2014 Posted February 21, 2014 Looking good so far, might use your gearbox when i do a supercar Quote
0RBlT Posted February 22, 2014 Posted February 22, 2014 here it is: two separate pieces with the centrifugal force the rubber parts make the dark grey rim spin the motor is connected to the part with rubber things, the gearbox is connected to the rim :) Hello! Tell me please, what is the big item on the left? From what she set? In advance thank you! Quote
piterx Posted February 22, 2014 Author Posted February 22, 2014 that should be a rim of one of the model team sets from the 90's...you can easily find that part on bricklink :) Quote
Hrafn Posted February 22, 2014 Posted February 22, 2014 Hello! Tell me please, what is the big item on the left? From what she set? In advance thank you! Part 2695, which is inexpensive on BrickLink. Quote
piterx Posted February 22, 2014 Author Posted February 22, 2014 here's the shifting mechanism the original idea was from Jaco4 i think...i just made it smaller and with a servo hope you like it Basically what it does is making the shaft rotating 90° per time...so now i only need to clean everything and connecting it to a gear rack to switch gear Quote
timslegos Posted February 22, 2014 Posted February 22, 2014 That is a very interesting way of shifting gears! Great implementation of the servo motor. tim Quote
piterx Posted February 22, 2014 Author Posted February 22, 2014 this guy here is using a different piece wich i don't have that could be really better...by the way it's the same system also Jaco4 had in his video...but he was crediting someone that i wasn't able to find... the different thing between mine and theirs is that im using a servo and my "stopping part" is smaller oh well, who cares XD Quote
piterx Posted February 23, 2014 Author Posted February 23, 2014 ok! the gearbox works fine! and the shift mechanism is precise the only thing wich i don't like is that sometimes it struggles in shifting because of the non-synchro gears i'm using... so now i'm updating the gearbox as someone before was saying: 1 stud offset and 20th gears...i'll update another video later to show if it works better or not :) it should also give a faster speed for each gear :) hope you like my dev's diary :) Quote
cgg199 Posted February 23, 2014 Posted February 23, 2014 Looks like a great gearbox! It's far more reliable than I expected considering the gears aren't synchronised. I look forward to the rest of this build! Quote
piterx Posted February 23, 2014 Author Posted February 23, 2014 Now it's definitely better :) I've solved every problem it had, expecially in the shifting mechanism It's still an un-synchronized gearbox wich means that sometimes the shift may not happen at first try but at least there's no grinding... I've tried it on the ground and a single L motor is able to carry with a temporary FWD setup over 700g till the 4th gear reaching a totally unexpected speed XD i'm surely gonna need a powerful braking system... Quote
unimog123 Posted February 23, 2014 Posted February 23, 2014 That is a perfect gearbox. Can't wait to see more. Quote
Technyk32231 Posted February 23, 2014 Posted February 23, 2014 Before going crazy thinking a way to build the activation mechanism, i thought it was time to test the gearbox. You can see it has the same configuration that the fulvia had except for the fact that i geared the L motors down to have a better torque... I might use one or two XL motors at the end...i'm not sure yet The nice thing is that the gearbox has such a small friction, that if you push it, it doesn't make any resistance....seems like there's no gearbox at all wich is good :D I've used the perfect Nicjasno's mac pherson structure, hope he won't mind :P It's just impossible doing it better than that! For proportions fidelity i can't add disc brakes to the front wheels...so i have to decide if it's better having a braking system directly on the main shaft or on the rear axle... To be sincere the wheels are 1 stud too wide...but that's not going to affect the final look that much You should probably try to reduce the steering link angle. Quote
0RBlT Posted February 23, 2014 Posted February 23, 2014 Hello! And I honestly delighted with your Lego Ford Fiesta WRC, I especially liked the idea of implementing the front suspension, very cool! About your box, please tell me if you connect the CL motor, it does not tear this box? And because it will not knock out power transmission? Quote
cgg199 Posted February 23, 2014 Posted February 23, 2014 Disc brakes shouldn't be too hard to implement, especially in the rear. Have you thought about putting brake pads on both sides of the disk like in a real car? Quote
VKTechnic Posted February 23, 2014 Posted February 23, 2014 Part 2695, which is inexpensive on BrickLink. It's actually part 60208 -- There isn't a lip on the wheel. Quote
piterx Posted February 24, 2014 Author Posted February 24, 2014 .... have you considered moving the top axle slightly ... moving that axle led me to an infinite number of lucky events that allowed me to put almost everything under the hood, fake engine included so really thank you XD now i just need to make the rear axle with lockable differential and brakes and the chassis is complete :) Quote
unimog123 Posted February 24, 2014 Posted February 24, 2014 Nice job! Although the fake V4 makes it seem so tall, will you still be able to keep the proportions right with the body? Quote
piterx Posted February 24, 2014 Author Posted February 24, 2014 oh yeah! compared to the blueprint there's still more than 1 stud aviable for the hood :) im just not that sure about the look of the upper part of the fake engine...looks more like a supercharged...i might take that out...hmmmm Quote
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