Perfect Paint for Plastic

[DuckBricks]

Hey guys,

I was looking at modding some of my Legends of Chima weapons to be more show-accurate... For example, Laval's black Valious has a chrome Lion head and a red handle. Crominus's blade is red with black scuff marks and fine gold embroidery, and so on. I am relatively new to customizing and was wondering if any of you had any suggestions for what paint I should use to create fine details... Any help?

Thanks!

[emilstorm]

I have used a brand names Citadel Base, its extremely durabel and really good for detail. I have often applied it with the tip of a needle for details where even the tiniest brush would be to small, and even those little details are near impossible to remove. It is the kind of paint you normally use for those little role playing game figures, and I would imagine any such kind of paint would give a good result. And they come in pretty much any color. They are a little pricy, but I would say they are worth it.

[CardinalBricks]

I use a brand called Testors. It's used mostly for painting model cars I think, put it works well for plastic too. It's pretty expensive, but it's worth it because the paint comes out shiny and clean. Make sure you take a look at the paint through its glass container, though, because sometimes it will turn out really runny. You'll know the good from the bad once you see them side by side. You will also have to buy the Testors paint remover, too, it won't come off with water. I usually use a Q-tip to remove the paint. Also use this to remove paint off the paintbrush if you need to change colors/ you're done. If you know these rules, Testors is a great brand for customizing.

[DuckBricks]

Ok, thanks. I'll check out both. Do you know if they come in shiny chrome colors?

[Faefrost]

It will depend a great deal on what type of plastic you are painting on, and if you are over spraying everything with a base primer and starting from scratch, or just seeking to add details to existing printing.

Most Lego parts are made of ABS, which is a very hardy and resistant plastic. It does not take paint well. You can use any type of paint on it for effect. But some will eventually wear off with handling.

There are three main types of paint.

1. Acrylic - acrylic paints are a mainly water based paint that is pretty much toxin free and easy to work with. Lower quality Acrylics will be horrid, but some of the high end fine grain ones such as the above mentioned Citadel paints are a breeze to work with and give magnificent results. The downside, Acrylic paint does not bond with ABS. So it will wear off with handling. If you are planning on just making detailed figures for display this is a good choice. It cleans up with water until it fully cures. After which water will not effect it.

2. Enamel - traditional plastic model paints such as Testors. Good all around stuff. Not as easy to work with as Acrylic, but good results a finer grain and better color, and a touch more permanent. It may stick better to ABS than Acrylic. It cleans up with Mineral Spirits such as Turpentine. You may also think of these as oil based paints. An important rule is do not mix the use of Acrylic and Enamel paints. They react to each other and fail to dry properly creating a sticky mess.

3. Lacquer - ok now this is the nasty one. Lacquer based paints can be incredible to use. But you need to know what you are doing. The fumes with them can be quite toxic. The advantages, they have the finest grain and truest color. The cons, so toxic that importing many of them is banned for hobby or model paints. This stuff is Auto body paint. Now it will do true chrome sand metallics, but is best sprayed on (remember the toxic if breathed, yeah it gets complicated). Now the reason for using it. Lacquer bonds to ABS. So a Lacquer painted fig is permanent. But if done wrong it can also melt the plastic. Clean up is Lacquer Thinner, which will melt the fig. Think Nail Polish Remover.

If you are just looking to add some detailing by hand then Acrylics like Citadel are probably best. Stay away from Lacquers unless you are seeking to do something like a true metal finish Star Wars Droid or Silver Surfer. Then something like Alclad II works well.

[CustomJoe_MD]

Nice homerun there Faefrost, only missed one category:

Epoxy paints. which in my opinion are the best for lego customizing.

KLASS KOTE EPOXY PAINTS, is the only one I know that can do a good job (I have very limited experience with these) but so far what I was able to get my hands on worked like a charm.

Hard to get though, not cheap.

Citadel acrylics are what most of us are used to, so these are a change.

But if you can get them do so.

They are used on high performance racing models. Hard wearing, permanent aplication and heat resistant.

PERFECT, basically. But it takes a whole different way of working with and applying. Some airbrushing material is required for professional finish.

http://www.klasskote.com/dealers

http://www.fighteraces.co.uk/product/klasskote/

Hope it helps.

[LOTRfan]

Well, i'm only an amateur, but for minifigs and customs I usually use acrylic Humbrol paints, the kind used for Airfix.

[BruceW4yne]

Anything acrylic based is good. I use various brands depending on the desired finish really. Though sufficient time to harden (not just dry) is important as well as a good sealer/clear coat.

[Lord Tyrus]

Ok, thanks. I'll check out both. Do you know if they come in shiny chrome colors?

Citadel definitely does shiny paints, I've used them on many occasions for both LEGO and plastic models (Warhammer)