[WIP] C4 Corvette

[timslegos]

Hello Eurobricks!

I dont usually start WIP threads but given that I am venturing into unknown realms, I decided I could definitely use the help of the Eurobricks Community. As the title states, I am building a 1/8th scale fourth generation corvette. This is likely my last project before I go off to college and my "dark ages", so I would like to end with a bang. I have always loved the corvette line and ever since I started driving one I knew I would like to build a replica.

To start I have a rough version of the frame. Using a blueprint I found, I constructed the frame to the correct scale. I think I will construct the frame out of studded pieces for maximum rigidity, still haven't decided about the body though.

While developing the frame I have also been working on the rear axle. The original car has 5 link suspension in the rear, with both a regular spring and a leaf spring. In this photo you can see my progress. The wheel has slight camber in it to counteract the slight flex when the suspension is compressed. The leaf spring will be attached to the blue connector.

Finally I have been determining the propulsion system. I know I would like have a 4 speed gearbox along with pf drive and steering. While thinking about solutions I came up with this idea. By coupling both a pf m motor and a buggy motor, I think it would combine the best of both motors; high speed as well as torque. The black gear coming off the differential would go directly into the gearbox after passing through a flywheel. Theoretically it would seem like it would work to me, though I dont actually know if it will or not. For all the experts out there, will this solution actually work?

Thank you for taking the time to read my post and help me out! More progress will follow.

tim

[peter_m]

Very interesting project. I love the quality of your photos!

[tibivi]

I think your motor setup will work if you brace it enough, like an 20 tht single bevel gear ( with the pin hole)

For bracing the 12tht from your l motor.

I like that you respect the the real susp and chassis setup

And you actully drive a corvette could you show some pics?

Succes with building

Tibivi

[unimog123]

I was wondering when this would show up here, I've seen some progress on your face book page and it seems like a very complicated and long project. I too have tried the rc buggy motor/pf motor combination and it will work with enough bracing, but with my experience you will get good speed and torque until you hit an obstacle, such as driving up a driveway, and the rc buggy motor will stop and the pf motor will pretty much take over. If you don't want this to happen then you need a lockable diff.

Hope my experience helps.

[timslegos]

And you actully drive a corvette could you show some pics?

I will once I get it out of the garage (in for the winter).

This will definitely be a long project, which is why I posted here for the help. The only concern I have is that the buggy motor will stop and the power of the m motor will cause the buggy motor to spin the opposite way, making the differential useless. the workaround could be using a lockable diff like you said.

tim

[Tommy Styrvoky]

just connect both cables for the motors to one slot on the receiver, just make sure that the motors turn the same direction.

[Doc_Brown]

Cool project! I also agree great photos!

[dikkie klijn]

just connect both cables for the motors to one slot on the receiver, just make sure that the motors turn the same direction.

1 receiver will never be able to power a RC motor and a L motor at the same time at full capacity. It would be better to use a single receiver for the buggy motor.

[Rishab N]

Looking good! It seems like itll be fast too

[timslegos]

1 receiver will never be able to power a RC motor and a L motor at the same time at full capacity. It would be better to use a single receiver for the buggy motor.

Okay thanks for the info, thats what I was thinking as well.

tim

[Alasdair Ryan]

Looking good so far Tim,I am sure it will be a fantastic moc when done.

[Milan]

Hope you will get that Corvette before you go to college!

And congrats for being able to drive that car :)

[timslegos]

Thank you for all of the kind comments!

I realized that my scale was off (new scale is 1/9) so I have changed what wheels I am using and also gave the chassis a massive overhaul. I am thinking a composite studdless and studded frame will give enough support.

As always, let me know what you think below!

tim

[Lakop]

Two different motors for drive? That's an interesting one.

H

[Milan]

Chassis is probably the section with most changes, during building process. Keep up!

[Tommy Styrvoky]

1 receiver will never be able to power a RC motor and a L motor at the same time at full capacity. It would be better to use a single receiver for the buggy motor.

You could use a switch and have a servo motor choose the direction instead of a IR reciver.

[timslegos]

More progress on the frame. Since I changed wheels I have been reworking the rear axles yet again. Is it okay that they are not exactly identical to the real thing?

tim

[Bzroom]

Is it okay that they are not exactly identical to the real thing?

Of course! with LEGO it will never be identical. But the closer you get, the cooler it will be.

There will be a balance between being accurate and being done. Dont get too wrapped up in being accurate or you may never finish.

[timslegos]

I have more progress on the back axle! It seems as soon as I settle for one idea I think of another that is better! I will at least attempt to move on to the front axles. I do have one problem, there are no 4L beams with open holes at the ends. For now I am using 5L beams that over hang the end. If you have any ideas to solve this please let me know below!

tim

Edited June 7, 2014 by timslegos

[Alasdair Ryan]

You could these:

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=11455

Edited June 7, 2014 by Alasdair Ryan

[Milan]

Move to front axle, let the back axle to cool down few days. More ideas will come this way :)

[VK-318]

Try using two of part 32013 (http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=32013) connected with a 2-stud-long axle. Unless this isn't strong enough ... ?

[Technyk32231]

I have more progress on the back axle! It seems as soon as I settle for one idea I think of another that is better! I will at least attempt to move on to the front axles. I do have one problem, there are no 4L beams with open holes at the ends. For now I am using 5L beams that over hang the end. If you have any ideas to solve this please let me know below!

tim

Ask Efferman... :) Why do they need to be 4L?

[timslegos]

@Alasdair - Those might work, although the top part might hit on the bodywork/frame.

@VK-318 - Unfortunately I think those pieces would fall apart under load.

@Technyk32231 - 4L maximized the suspension travel and is also closer to the length of the link in real life.

tim

[Rockbrick]

I think you should use ball joints and respective 6L rod instead of the red studded beam

as there will be sideways movement due to the 4Ls on the other side - the longer those would be the more close to vertical their arc would be (see panhard rod design and implementation)