Lipko Posted July 25, 2014 Posted July 25, 2014 Let me guess, your steering links are not parallel with the wheels' axles. That means you have an inverse Ackermann geometry, meaning the outer wheel turns more instead of less. Either make the steering links at least parallel, or place the rack and links between the front and rear axle. I see this mistake quite a lot of times. Quote
timslegos Posted July 25, 2014 Author Posted July 25, 2014 You would be correct. The links form a slight trapezoid in the front. Since there is no room behind the axle I will try to make them parallel. Thanks for the tip! Tim Quote
piterx Posted July 25, 2014 Posted July 25, 2014 don't forget about the shifting mechanism operated by a servo :) it will help you a lot! Quote
Ttimman Posted August 3, 2014 Posted August 3, 2014 (edited) Thank you for all of the kind comments! I realized that my scale was off (new scale is 1/9) so I have changed what wheels I am using and also gave the chassis a massive overhaul. I am thinking a composite studdless and studded frame will give enough support. As always, let me know what you think below! tim Wow, that is what I should do for the Ferrari I'm building! Thank you for the inspiration! Edited August 4, 2014 by Ttimman Quote
timslegos Posted June 4, 2015 Author Posted June 4, 2015 (edited) With my first year of college/university finished, I have returned home for the summer. After being away from Lego for 8 months, I was a little rusty at first. That didn't stop me from deciding to completely rebuild the corvette frame and suspension. Here you can see the front unequal length wishbone suspension, featuring caster, camber, and kingpin inclination. There is a negligible bump steer, but considering this is just Lego, I think it is acceptable. I would be happy to receive comments and critique. Tim Edited June 4, 2015 by timslegos Quote
skppo Posted June 4, 2015 Posted June 4, 2015 Looking good but I am a bit worried that the lower ball joint might pop out when the suspension is compressed. Mounting the shock to the upper arm wouldn't work and connecting the arms might not be possible due to the diffrent lenghts. Quote
tehkei Posted June 4, 2015 Posted June 4, 2015 I just started learning how to make technic RC cars, its great to see this progress. keep up the good work. Quote
tibivi Posted June 4, 2015 Posted June 4, 2015 (edited) Do i recognise my (or at least inspirationed by mine) front axle there? Edited June 4, 2015 by tibivi Quote
timslegos Posted June 4, 2015 Author Posted June 4, 2015 Do i recognise my (or at least inspirationed by mine) front axle there? https://flic.kr/p/o9MU9Z Nice to see the project is still on the go Also really cool to see my idea in such a great project Tibivi Wow great minds must think alike! I discovered (or was inspired) to create that design back during last summer, so unfortunately I do not remember how I came about the design. Considering they are almost exactly the same, it would be quite the coincidence if we each came up with it separately! tim Quote
sm1995 Posted June 4, 2015 Posted June 4, 2015 Beautiful shots! And everything looks great :) I have a question though, wouldn't the wheel hub snap out of the lower wishbone if enough pressure is applied? Quote
timslegos Posted June 4, 2015 Author Posted June 4, 2015 I have a question though, wouldn't the wheel hub snap out of the lower wishbone if enough pressure is applied? That is certainly a possibility, however, given the relatively low load applied to the hub when driving, it should not be a problem. tim Quote
Paul Boratko Posted June 5, 2015 Posted June 5, 2015 Great idea with the suspension, but I am not a big fan of shocks not having an even mount... It works well for the LBG shocks with weaker springs, but not so much for the hard spring yellow ones.. I am sure that your design will meet your needs though.. :thumbup: Quote
MSc Shobaki Posted June 5, 2015 Posted June 5, 2015 I would change the black pin connector (double hole perpendicular) and the gray pin connector with axle, for two 3x3 L-shaped liftarms. As far as I can see, you're using the bottom pin hole for an axle, the one on top of it for a pin, and up-right hole to connect the shock absorber with a pin. Simply switch to two L-liftarms and the result should be stiffer. Quote
Block_Smarts Lego Technic Posted August 11, 2015 Posted August 11, 2015 Can't wait to to see more progress! It feels good to finally have a rolling chassis. I shopped at the lego store today for the new snowmobile set so I could use the new suspension arms in the front. The front suspension has proper unequal length arms as well as the proper 6 degree caster. I am having some trouble with the steering linkage though. Can anyone explain why there is such an extreme difference in the angle of the wheels? Also credits to Piterx for his very nice linear gearbox. tim Could we have some more pics of the gearbox? Quote
timslegos Posted August 11, 2015 Author Posted August 11, 2015 Could we have some more pics of the gearbox? I believe it is Pitrerx's 3+R gearbox. There should be more pictures on his website as well as various Eurobricks threads. tim Quote
Block_Smarts Lego Technic Posted August 11, 2015 Posted August 11, 2015 (edited) I believe it is Pitrerx's 3+R gearbox. There should be more pictures on his website as well as various Eurobricks threads. tim It doesn't look much like it. Edited August 11, 2015 by Block_Smarts Lego Technic Quote
timslegos Posted August 11, 2015 Author Posted August 11, 2015 It doesn't look much like it. It may look different due to the frame I put around it and the way I packaged it, but it is certainly his gearbox. tim Quote
Block_Smarts Lego Technic Posted August 12, 2015 Posted August 12, 2015 It may look different due to the frame I put around it and the way I packaged it, but it is certainly his gearbox. tim The thing is, the 3+r that I see when I look it up is sequential. Yours doesn't Quote
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